stainless steel bolts to replace old oversized/repaired rivets ?

hello again everyone i have a quick question for the people WHO HAVE ACTUALLY USED STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS IN THEIR BOATS TO REPLACE BAD RIVETS . see link to boat here= http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=440708

ive done a couple of hours of searches and have found eaqual number of people saying to use them and not to use them so thought i would try to get some real world facts from you guys

well ive been working on the boat i picked up last fall (finally getting it done) and have replaced 10 rivets with stainless steel bolts and nylon/stainless nuts since the old rivets had been replaced/repaired with over size rivets..... and were bent over and installed poorly (no rebucking possible)

the others i replaced using aluminum rivets and 3m 5200 sealant......

so now to my question, again please respond only if you have used stainless bolts/nuts and tell me how long they have lasted and if you have had any corrision problems at the stainless/aluminum joint..... this boat will be usd in fresh water only and always is trailered never left in the water.


thanks in advance to any and all responses.



bass

Re: stainless steel bolts to replace old oversized/repaired rivets ?

I have always used stainless hardware to mount transducers and never, not even in salt water have I had a problem with corrosion. I work for a company that manufactures high power TV broadcast antennas. We use stainless hardware for everything and we have alot of stainless to aluminum connections. Some of these antennas are exposed to very corrosive environments such as near oil refineries. We have never had an issue with corrosion.

I've replaced with 1/4" blind rivets. Most worked. Some came loose and holes wobbled out more. Replaced with 5/16" SS button head screws with washer and nylon locknut on the inside. Used 5200 on the bottom side, then gluvit on the inside of the boat around washers. I can say that the bolt draws much tighter than a pneumatic driven 1/4" blind rivet. Yeah, the threads might not make a perfect seal in the hole like a rivet, but even if it leaks, it'll be much slower than a rivet that comes loose.

I read so much about dissimilar metals with using SS on aluminum. I'm not too worried about it. Both Firestone and Pac Clad recommend SS clips/fasteners with aluminum roof panels (even on the coast). Can't imagine they'd offer 20+ yr warranties if galvanic reaction was an issue...

If it doesn't work well, I will post a follow up.

danimalw said:

I've replaced with 1/4" blind rivets. Most worked. Some came loose and holes wobbled out more. Replaced with 5/16" SS button head screws with washer and nylon locknut on the inside. Used 5200 on the bottom side, then gluvit on the inside of the boat around washers. I can say that the bolt draws much tighter than a pneumatic driven 1/4" blind rivet. Yeah, the threads might not make a perfect seal in the hole like a rivet, but even if it leaks, it'll be much slower than a rivet that comes loose.

I read so much about dissimilar metals with using SS on aluminum. I'm not too worried about it. Both Firestone and Pac Clad recommend SS clips/fasteners with aluminum roof panels (even on the coast). Can't imagine they'd offer 20+ yr warranties if galvanic reaction was an issue...

If it doesn't work well, I will post a follow up.

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