Dumb Transom Question

SDSeville · Jun 2, 2011

OK, I have been on here for over year now and something just came to mind as I was prepping my new wood transom. Why can't you just lay 20 to 30 layers of 1708 or 1808 Glass and just have a fiberglass transom instead of wood encased in fiberglass?

foodfisher · Jun 2, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

$ & labor

fishfeatures · Jun 2, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

so in theory it is a runner ? as i've query that one for a while, 'cause at least you'll know that the transom will never rot then. Would same apply to stringers????

SDSeville · Jun 2, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

$ and labor wouldn't be much on my 19' Sea Ray BR I/O. The transom is just a "bump" 24" wide by 26" tall.

Robert D · Jun 2, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

I'd say to go for it and use epoxy. My next restoration will be 100% glass for everything. As long as you leave the original outer skin for shape purposes, the transom should be easy. Maybe block it solid with some wood screwed to it to make sure the shape holds while you work on it. Tab it to the sides really well. I beefed up my transom while I rebuilt it...with wood in the middle as a core. Went as far as 18" up the sides and hull with tabbing. Took my time over several weeks and just kept improving it. Sort of lost track how thick it was going. When I drilled the holes for the splash area, I found I had laid about 3/4s of an inch thick fiberglass there! (I had estimated it would be 'maybe' 3/16ths of an inch that high on the transom.)

SDSeville · Jun 2, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

I just measured and it looks like 24 layers of 1808 would do it. It is not as much as it seems because of the small size of my transom (24"X26"). I don't think it would take much more than 2 gallons of resin.

However, I think I will still just go with the wood. I already have the wood cut, glued together, and just about ready to go. Plus, until I see it actually done, I wouldn't even consider going all glass. It just seems like people would already be doing it if it was a viable option.

Cadwelder · Jun 2, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

What your talking about has been done....I made a solid fiberglass transom for my ProCraft when I retored it. (I built the transom on two glass plates, to keep it perfectly flat) and then installed in just like you would plywood. The only problem I see with just building it up on the hull in keep the hull straight.

Now if you want to PM I'll give you more details, but if you want my advice just stick with plywood. I'll never do it again, I just use plywood for all of them.

#1 Cost (biggy)
#2 Time
#3 Just a he** of an overkill
#4 Weight (heavier than plywood)

Woodonglass · Jun 2, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

The way I look at it is, If you do it right using wood, Pay close attention to the edges, Maintain it properly, ALWAYS predrill and SEAL any Holes you put in the transom (Avoid this if at all possible) then it will last 30 years or more. For me, that is LONG ENOUGH!!

Robert D · Jun 3, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

Ah yes, it's those damn holes that will do the transom in. That's why mine doesn't have a bilge drain in it. I just couldn't stand to drill into that perfect transom! The boat lives in a garage when not being used, and we don't go boating in the rain.....'fair weather' fishing. Here we are almost 2 years later, and I can still stick my hand down in the bottom of the bilge and wipe a figer and only find dust. My poor bilge pump never gets any use. It's just dusty. The only holes in my transom are for the outboard, and for the spashwell drains. All holes were drilled oversize, then filled in with a mix of epoxy and chopped up glass....then drilled the correct size......and the 3M sealer added to the engine mount bolt holes for extra measure.

Cadwelder · Jun 3, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

Robert D said:
Ah yes, it's those damn holes that will do the transom in. That's why mine doesn't have a bilge drain in it. I just couldn't stand to drill into that perfect transom! The boat lives in a garage when not being used, and we don't go boating in the rain.....'fair weather' fishing. Here we are almost 2 years later, and I can still stick my hand down in the bottom of the bilge and wipe a figer and only find dust. My poor bilge pump never gets any use. It's just dusty. The only holes in my transom are for the outboard, and for the spashwell drains. All holes were drilled oversize, then filled in with a mix of epoxy and chopped up glass....then drilled the correct size......and the 3M sealer added to the engine mount bolt holes for extra measure.

I too keep my boat in the garage, and I agree with all you said except the bilge drain part. I'm glad you're boat stays dry, and that you are lucky enough to have never got rained on while fishing or on the way home. I personally have never been that lucky. I would install a bilge drain...as long as it's installed properly and sealed properly you won't have a problem with it.

SDSeville · Jun 3, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

I get that wood will last long enough, but if the fiberglass would work, why don't they just sell 1/2" or 3/4" sheets of fiberglass that we can just glue with peanut butter and tab in?

...or better yet, why don't the manufacturers slap in a 2" piece of fiberglass instead of the plywood?

trendsetter240 · Jun 3, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

SDSeville said:
I get that wood will last long enough, but if the fiberglass would work, why don't they just sell 1/2" or 3/4" sheets of fiberglass that we can just glue with peanut butter and tab in?

...or better yet, why don't the manufacturers slap in a 2" piece of fiberglass instead of the plywood?

Because a 2" thick fiberglass layup is about 10 times more expensive than a 1.5" wood core with 1/4" fiberglass skin on either side. It would also be heavier and cost more labor to build.

Most transoms are a lot bigger than your 24" x 26". I just did my transom on my 17ft boat and it's more like 76" 48".

The wood core provides the needed stiffness and strength and if properly sealed will last the boats lifetime.

There are also the pour in transoms like seacast that you can look at. Those are more expensive than wood but would be less expensive than pure fiberglass and would not rot.

SDSeville · Jun 3, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

Thanks Guys. I am going with wood. I should have it done this weekend. This thought just came to me as I was laying some glass this week in preparation for the transom.

ondarvr · Jun 3, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

A 24" x 26" x 2" thick transom plate made from Fiberglass would weigh close to 70 lbs and cost around $150 to $200 in materials to make.

A glass laminate weighs about 1 lb per square foot for every 1/8th inch in thickness.

Cadwelder · Jun 3, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

ondarvr said:
A 24" x 26" x 2" thich transom plate made from Fiberglass would weigh close to 70 lbs and cost around $150 to $200 in materials to make.

A glass laminate weighs about 1 lb per square foot for every 1/8th inch in thickness.

Hence number 1 and 4 in post 7

SDSeville · Jun 3, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

The price for this small of a transom is no big deal considering the amount of work it is to get to the transom and the fact that you would never, ever have to do this again (or worry about sealing holes, etc...). I guess the weight would be the deal killer. What does the plywood plus 3/8" (inner skin) glass weigh? I am guessing around 40 lbs?

Silverbullet555 · Jun 3, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

If you want to go synthetic there are some product you can buy. Several boat mfg use synthetic transom cores.

SDSeville · Jun 4, 2011

Re: Dumb Transom Question

I am actually going with wood, but just thinking out loud here. I did a lot of research here in San Diego and couldn't find anything synthetic. Every local composite company and boat builder I contacted said I should just use wood (and that they use wood). It seems like most of the synthetic wood and pourable stuff is from Florida.

Dumb Transom Question

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