Trim + Tilt Problem

Motor is a 1989 Yamaha Excel 225

It is trimmed almost all the way down right now, and I can trim it up slightly, and down slightly from its current position, but it will not trim all the way back up or down. Trim pump/motor sounds like its running normal, although sometimes I will hear almost like a slight grinding noise.

Any ideas guys?

Re: Trim + Tilt Problem

Guess the first thing to do is check the reseuvor fluid level. Is the boat on a trailer, davits, lift or in the water? First thing to do is try to loosen the tilt by pass valve to raise the motor to get to the fill port. Do not be surprised if you can not move the screw. If you are in or over the water, the boat is going to have to be hauled. Now it is a simple matter of removing the bottom mount, swivel pin by removing one of either 2 retaining bolt at the pin end and pushing it out.
Pull the leg up and lock it up. Unscrew the fill port and start filling the reseuvior with ATF using a syringe. Reinstall the plug each time and start running the trim motor. Let the trim unit hang while doing this, no sense hooking it up right now. Keep cycling the unit until it is completely bled. Unit is full when all the pistons are fully extended and no more fluid can be added.
Now is also the time to take care of the bypass screw that you could not turn. Get the largest straight slot bit that will fit in the recess, so the bit does not walk out, and apply increasing impact settings on a drill until it comes loose but not all the way out. Hope this has helped.
If you have to go deeper, yamahaoutboardparts.com has a very good parts breakdown. That is where RODBOLT hangs out BTW. Reasonably priced parts can be found at sierra marine on line parts catalog. regards FRED

Re: Trim + Tilt Problem

Messed with the tilt and trim deal a little. It was obviously low on fluid, I removed the cap and couldnt see any fluid and none was dripping out. So I added some good power trim fluid until it slowly started seeping out (with the motor in the upright position). Put the cap back on and tilted it all the way up and down several times and it worked just like it should. Even the bad grinding noise went away.

However....I noticed some more during all of this. There is definitely fluid coming out the top of the middle hydraulic shaft/lift whatever you want to call it. It seems to seep out whenever the motor is tilted to the max up position. Thats when I notice it seeping out. If you trim the motor in between, it does not appear that any fluid is coming out at that point.

I also did notice that the fluid in there is probably not very good, it was brown and looked to have some crud in it.

Is the little plug down on the left in these pictures the "drain" screw? Maybe I should drain everything and fill it with new. What does everyone think of the fluid seeping out the top when the motor is tilted all the way up and then starting to come down?







I also took a little video of the motor in action

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYX2IyUiyBg&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Cory

Re: Trim + Tilt Problem

Unit looks a bit different than my F115. Am glad you had no problem tilting the motor up. No future with that tilt cylinder, replace the O rings. My manual shows 2 O rings in the ram. One at the top, one at the bottom, no teflon spacers are anything. Simple job, I had the biggest fight just getting the circlip off the top mount pin. You are going to need a special spanner wrench to unscrew the cylinder gland nut. Then just pull the the ram out of the cylinder.
Suggest while you have the wrench, replace to O rings in the trim cylinders.
My boat is on a lift so I store it with the motor full down. That keeps the chrome from being exposed to the elements plus reduces the pressure on the O rings. A bit of useless info, aircraft landing gear free falls to the down/ locked position. There is actually a restrictor in the down side so the gear does not drop out and tear itself off the plane. Hydraulic pressure just comes in as a follow up. Arnt you happy I told you that?
Bit more useless info, You can flush the motor with it running using the built in hose attachment. Can not use ears on a lift. This allows the thermostats to open and allows you to really flush the important parts of the engine, not just the exhaust. Just replaced my impeller after 4 years just because it was out of the water ( plus it was time ). Impeller and pump were like brand new, no ill effects. I do it at idle for 5 mins. regards FRED

Re: Trim + Tilt Problem

One more thing, the book does show a piston ring along with the O ring on the top of the trim cylinders. Probably teflon. None on the tilt cylinder. FRED

Re: Trim + Tilt Problem

Good information. I plan on looking at it tomorrow morning to see if i can get it off there. I cannot believe Im going to need a special tool!?!?!?! Why do that!

Cory

Re: Trim + Tilt Problem

Is a square piece of metal with a hole for a 3/8 or 1/2 in drive. Has pins in it to engage the holes in the gland nut as well as a slot so it fits around the ram shaft. Sort of like a crows foot or B nut wrench. Being a salt water motor, it might be very difficult to remove. Sometimes having the right tool makes all the difference. Might want to get in touch with a mobile mechanic who would have the tool. Replace all the seals, trim and tilt. Item is called an END SCREW WRENCH, YB-06548 / 90890-06548 but I am going by my F115 manual. If I were designing the unit, the gland nut would have lands on it so one could put a pipe or FORD wrench on it. To simple I guess.
Never had occasion to look but there might be a universal tool with multiple holes where metal dowels could be dropped in to match up with the holes. True story, LOCKHEED L-1011 manuals had what they called the GOBI DESERT METHOD. Basically was evaluate what tools you had, get a mallet or hammer and get the job done. Enough remenissing for today. FRED