Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

I am restoring a 1984 Cimmeron Fish/Ski combo, trihull, 15.5 ft with a 70 hp OMC Johnson and power trim.

I live in Tennessee but I have a lot of family in Hudson, FL. We have always fished in the bay/flats etc. We normally take an old 12 ft flat bottom jon out with a 10 hp motor. I want to take my boat with me when I visit family. I expect that my new to me Cimmeron will feel like a caddy with it's cushy seats, bow mounted trolling motor (rated for salt water) and walk-through windshield compared to the Jon boat. We are normally, no more than half a mile off shore (if that's what it is called) and I don't expect that I would take my tri-hull out much further than that.

Please, understand that I have only fished in these waters and my uncles/cousins have always piloted the boats. How will the trihull typically ride in bay waters like this? I have never rode in a trihull before so this will be new experience for me. I expect it to be very stable for fishing, crabbing, and as a dive platform for scallops. I hope it rides better than the jon boat.

I am in the process of totally rebuilding my fiberglass boat, replacing the stringers and transom. I will rewire this boat completely and try to equip it with everything I can so it can survive in both the freshwater and salt environment I expect to subject this boat too. Other than replacing every screw with stainless is there anything else that I can do to make this boat live better in the salt/brackish condititions that I will subject it to a few times a year.

I have the original trailer under my boat, I know that this steel trailer will rust once it hits salt water, is there anything I can do to my trailer to make it last longer, that is until I can purchase a galvanized/aluminum trailer for my boat in the next few years?

Can I go 1-5 miles "off shore" with this type of boat in decent weather conditions? I do not plan to go this far off intentionally, I do understand that currents etc can carry me out. I never intend to lose sight of land. (especially since I am not experienced as a salt water pilot)

Should I mount a 5-10 HP Kicker on this little boat for extra insurance? (I will get funny looks on Nickajack Lake, but it may be worth it in salt???)

Do I need GPS, VHF? Will my freshwater fishfinder work ok???

Anything else anybody can think of?

One more note, I have no intentions of going into blue water or anything suicidal like that in this boat. I am talking about the coastal waters around Hudson, Fl.

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to build this little boat right for my intended purposes.

Thanks!

Re: Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

Two Very important things I can think of right off the start...

1.) You MUST flush the engine IMMEDIATELY with Fresh Water and VERY Thoroughly after you use it in Salt Water. Even then corrosions will probably occur.

2.) I would do a thorough washing inside and out EVERY time I pulled the boat out of the salt water. An Keep the outside hull WAXED religously. As you say, STAINLESS is a MUST.

3.) I'd sandblast the Trailer and paint it with Three coats of Rustoleum Premium Industrial Oil Based paint and ad some Valspar Oil Based Hardener to the paint. Make sure and get every crack and crevice covered. It MIGHT last if you do that.

4.) Fishfinder should work but, again make sure and clean it REALLY well after you finish up in the Salt.

Pay Very close attention to the WEATHER and high tail it for cover if you THINK a storm is coming.



BE SAFE!!!

Re: Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

woodonglass, I don't think the OP will know you are being sarcastic with that advice.

Jeremy you have a good rig and are asking the right questions. Your only concern should be the steel trailer if you are going to use it a lot down there. As for your restoration work, all boat work should be done with an eye toward salt water use.

Specifics later*. I am a life-time salt water boater and even have your same motor--24 years of salt water use.


*I had a more detailed reply but somehow deleted it before it posted and now have to do something else!

Re: Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

I would say get a gps with charts, also vhf radio. You can get gps/fishfinder/depthfinder combo units with charts that also give fishing hotspots for the waters you are on, the vhf radio will let you contact rescue units should you have a problem. I do flush the engine after use, mine is 99% salt/brackish use, I do wash the boat inside and out just to keep it clean and looking good.

Re: Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

In my area is a river(fresh) that feeds into the Indian River(salt).
I instruct people to put in in the fresh water and motor out to the inlet.That saves the trailer
Get some charts or maps and check them out.
You can flush everything and wash it all down but all it takes is one time in salt to start the troubles.
Not as bad as long time use but it's gonna start.J

Re: Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

1. Flushing the engine is not necessary, but it can't hurt, especially after your last run and before you take it back home. So do it if you can but don't sweat it if you can't. BTW I also have a mid-80's Johnson 70, doing fine after 25 years in salt water.
2. Waxing the boat is no different in salt or fresh. You do not need to wash it after each use, although a light spraying off won't hurt. The outside hull won't care if it's waxed or not. Experienced salt water boaters may wash theirs a couple times a summer, as needed. Don't take this the wrong way, but it's a 1984 hull, so you can relax as far as that goes.
3. Fittings on any boat should be stainless, so to do a good job on your rehab, make everything salt-water ready. Use stainless, hit fittings with white lithium grease, NEVER use WD-40 as a protectorant, seal your electrical connections and keep wires out of the bilge water.
4. A steel trailer is not a good idea but it depends on your use. Are you going to use it daily, or just on arrival and departure? if the latter, don't worry about it. If you have rollers, you probably don't need to sink it, and may evenbe able to keep the axles dry. Otherwise, just hose it off. Anyway, if you are going to replace it in a couple of years, it will last that long.
5. Any freshwater equipment should be rinsed off, but not blasted.
6. Your tri-hull will be a good bay boat, as you said; it's stable and that hull design is usually safer in rough water than other designs--but that relies 90% on the operator. Don't let anyone tell you it will "beat you to death" because especially at 15' it won't be extremely different; it will be a little bumpier. Stay within sight of land and other boaters; use your relative's local knowledge if they are competent. Just don;'t overload your boat. Take a total of 3 at a time fishing, not the whole gene pool.
7. A kicker motor would be a complete waste of time, weight and space.
8. You don't need a GPS but they are fun to have. A hand-held VHF will reach other boaters nearby but probably not rescue. Rather than invest ni a hard-mounted VHF with an antenna, carry two cell phones in water tight (not water proof) carriers that float. The great thing about havnig them in a carrier is you can't answer them in time, which is why you are out boating in the first place.
9. The main thing(s): have a properly rigged anchor, and a paddle, or better, an oar. Enjoy yourself!

Re: Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

Thank you all for your replies! I appreciate every one of them. Since I am basically rigging this boat for salt water I want to eliminate as many problems as possible. Something I thought about this afternoon was carpet.

Can I simply paint a poly based paint (white) mixed with some sand or some other abrasive on the decks? That way I can simply rinse the the deck off?

I intend to replace the bilge pump with two much higher rated pumps, (one set to auto, another set on a switch for redundancy) I figure if I install 2 1000 gph bilge pumps (way overkill, but hey, I want it safe) then I should be pretty well good to go. Why i am preparing for is for a situation where the boat is swamped or taking on water over the bow. I need pumps to keep up and overcome a situation like that.

so.. with that in mind, Should I leave some drain holes in the deck to allow for quick drainage to the bilge, through the pumps, and out of the boat?

I have also been thinking about the boats electronics.

I want to install a waterproof (or water tight) fuse box to run the electronics off of. I want everything as safe and secure and can be.

As far as batteries are concerned. This boat has the typical fresh water set up. One cranking battery, and one deep cell. Are there any significant advantages to setting up two deep cell batteries in a series?

Home Cookin', you mentioned having a properly rigged anchor. I currently have two mushroom anchors (looks like an upside down mushroom) of the typical Wal-Mart variety. They are simply tied to a rope, tied to the boat, and dropped overboard when needed. We normally adjust the amount of roap we need by tying off to the cleats. Is this properly rigged? I do not take anything personal. I simply want to learn. anything you can share about a properly rigged anchor is welcome info.

Thanks!

Jerem

Re: Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

One thing just caught my eye that I have to warn you about. I just made a big mistake by trying to rectify peoples complaints about them getting fiberglass in the buns when sitting on the bow. Had an unopened can of RUSTOLEUM paint so I considered painting the area and since it was gloss, mixing in a bit of non- skid to keep the footing safe. I have used a non-skid before, was very fine ground glass, used the directed mix and it works fine today.
This time I go to the marine section of the hardware store and can not find the product I used before. Then I get the idea of using flat instead of gloss, that will work. While in the paint section I find my flat white and mention to the girl stocking the paint that I can not find the non skid additive that I expected to be in the marine section. She happily hands me a plastic bag of non skid additive. I bring the paint and non skid home, mix in the the right proportions, hand it to the wife and tell her to go to town on the bow area. What a mistake!!! This stuff is for floors, ladders, scaffolds, serious shoe territory, not for bare buns. Now I have a sander standing by and have to take it all off. There is nothing wrong with the correct non skid used in the right mixture. Just use the right stuff and with the right mix as instructed, do not over do it.
One more comment. 2- 12 volt batteries hooked up in series will give you 24 volts. DONT DO IT ! Also you are over reacting to your saltwater enviroment with all your preperations, relax. If the boat is that pristine, leave it at home in a controlled enviroment as a trophy boat. Come down here, buy one of the numerious boats that are being just about given way and enjoy yourself on the water. regards FRED

Re: Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

Hi Fred,

I went swimming at Pine Island last year with my mom, wife, and two boys. We had an absolute blast at the beach. I loved wading out into the crystal clear water. Lot less stressful with my young boys with those calm waters.

Thank you for the suggestion on the paint, I thought I was on the right track with paint and non skid additive. I will try to be careful with the mixture. I do not want sandpaper on the deck of the boat.

This boat is not pristine, I have the hull halves apart for stringer/transom replacement right now. I just want to build it back right and safe and for the conditions.

Thanks!

Re: Please help my boat survive in in the Flats/brackish water?

on a 15' boat inshore you don't need two batteries or two bilge pumps. A standard marine fuse box should be good enough--mount it high enough, under cover, and hit it with white lithium grease. Don't change the boat's drainage set up. Wear life preservers if you're that concerned about swamping.

Does yours have the large rubber plug you can get to from inside the boat? that's so you can pull the plug and run the water out.

Avoid carpet. It's for living rooms, not open boats. try vynyl. non-skid paint is probably not necessary; wear boat shoes.

Get a danforth anchor, about 4-6' of chain, and 100' of line. You don't have to rig for storms or overnight; just so you will stay put if you break down. Never tie it to the stern. Mushroom are OK to drop over while fishing, but on a 15' boat, you are getting too much stuff.

(forgot about the trolling motor; have one battery for it and one for your engine. Carry jumoper cables.