Why won't it start?

I have a 1984 25hp E25RCRD envirude that won't start. Its getting spark. Its getting fuel to the carberator. When I press the starter button everything seems to be trying to work. But it won't turn over and will make loud spitting noises. After it wouldnt start I pulled the plugs and they were wet with fuel. I'm not sure what else to do. Anyone have any ideas?

Re: Why won't it start?

Oh I forgot to say that I have replaced the powerpack, coils, plugs, wires, rebuilt the fuel pump, replaced the fuel line and bulb, rebuilt the carb with the carb rebuild kit, and made sure the battery was fully charged. When I did take apart the carb it seemed like the tube in the middle that goes into the bowl was a little bent. I also noticed the kill switch wire was a bit chafed but I am not sure if that could stop it from actually starting. I really hope you guys have an idea so I can get my wife off my back about my non running motor.

Re: Why won't it start?

Switch the plug wires from where they are, to the opposite plug.

Re: Why won't it start?

Ok I will give that a try. Just out of couriosity since I dont know a whole lot about outboards, does the top coil not plug in the top plug? Or can it be either way?

Re: Why won't it start?

The flywheel key isn't sheared is it?? You can check this externally by pulling the plugs, bringing # 1 to tdc and see if your timing marks line up.

Re: Why won't it start?

You did a lot to the engine, did it run before you started repairing it? I would unhook the fuel from it and dry the plugs, crank it a few times with the plugs out, put them back in and see if it fires. don't add gas. If you made a mistake with the carb then it should fire.

Re: Why won't it start?

No it didn't run before, but there was alot of bad wiring, cracked coils, and a some leaking gaskets. It wasn't getting spark at first or holding fuel pressure in the bulb. Thats why I replaced everything I did. I figured I would fix what I could tell was obviously bad at first and go from there. But I will try all these suggestions and see what happens. I did try letting it dry and tried to start it without priming it with the manual primer yesterday but that didn't seem to make a difference, but I will give that another try too. I am not sure where the timing marks are to line them up, but I will research it and I am sure there is something on here that can help me with that.

Re: Why won't it start?

Hopefully you did not attempt to straighten out that "bent" small brass tubing that is within the larger brass high speed venturi tube. It is designed purposely to be off center and needs to be that way to obtain a proper idle.

Check to see that the flywheel key isn't sheared.

Double check and set the points as follows:
(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

Use Champion QL77JC4 plugs, gapped at .030 or .040 . One gap setting or the other may improve performance. After you get the engine running, try both settings.

Adjust the carburetor as follows:
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Re: Why won't it start?

Wow. Thanks just made searching for that a lot easier. I'm glad I found this website. You guys are a huge help for people just getting into the outboard world. No I didn't try to straighten it, just looked unusual and I wasn't sure.

Re: Why won't it start?

Thanx Joe, Ive been having the smae problem with my 75 20hp Rude (and yes I said 75 20hp Rude, seems to be a very limeted run of engine but it dose exist). The manual states to back out the ss valve 5/8th, I hope this is why I cant get her going, it trys then pops and quits. Ill try backing it out 1 1/2 as per your instructions.

Thank you again for the info.

Re: Why won't it start?

Would this be a sheared flywheel key? Could this be the issue. I tried all the other things and no luck, just will backfire and not start.

Re: Why won't it start?

Yep, the key is sheared, at least it looks like it is flush with crank, it should stick up a little.

Re: Why won't it start?

Yes, it's sheared. Clean up the taper of the crankshaft and flywheel before installing a new key. Purchase the proper key at your dealership, NOT some key that looks like it at a hardware store!

Look up the torque specifications for the flywheel nut.... that torque is obviously critical!

Install the key so that the outer straight edge is vertical... straight up and down with the engine, NOT aligned with the crankshaft taper.

Re: Why won't it start?

The flywheel key did it. Fired right up. It does backfire a bit and cut out after a while in gear at slow speed. Past that point it runs great. There is a little shifting issue. To change gears I have to kill the motor and raise it out of the water and I will be able to switch gears. Sometimes I have to turn the prop until it will engage.