Testing Ignition System<<UPDATED>>

My 1987 2-Stroke 115ETLH is only firing on 2 cylinders at the moment (starboard side runs). This was on the hose.

Compression all within 10%
Alarms work and aren't going off (is there one for the larger tank?)
Timing light/Temp showed me the port side was not running.

I got the Fluke out and did the resistance checks and a bunch are not giving me anything. I disconnected the ground on the starter--is that correct?

White/Red--White/Black = 0
White/Red--White/Yellow = 358
White/Red--White/Green=0
White/Black--White/Yellow=355.5
White/Yellow--White/green=0

Brown--blue=0
Brown--red=1.1
Brown--red/black=0
Blue--Red=0
Blue--Red/Black=0

Done with a Fluke 78

I also have a Fluke with a Peak Hold for future tests if it's similar to using a DVA...This is what it looks like...



Any help would be much appreciated--Not sure If I'm doing the tests right with my crap results :facepalm:

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Not sure why you disconnected the starter ground, or are getting the ohm readings you are getting but you will need the DVA adapter to take peak voltage reading. Peak hold meter means nothing for these ignition systems

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

The manual said to remove the ground. Which ground do I remove--I have the batteries off at the perko and I pulled the starter ground. I see that the peak hold is much different than the DVA--I can pick one up. I tried to follow the manual, but it's worthless--don't test ohms? Trying not to spend 25% of this old birds value with parts. Can I do anything with ohms as I wait for this obscure dva adapter?

Thanks guys!

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

You need to test it "isolated" which means disconnected from other components. Resistance readings can vary for instance in most manuals they will give a temperature at that given resistance, usuallyi at 68 degrees. Heat increases resistance.

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

jeffersondodson561 said:

You need to test it "isolated" which means disconnected from other components. Resistance readings can vary for instance in most manuals they will give a temperature at that given resistance, usuallyi at 68 degrees. Heat increases resistance.

Click to expand...

How do I isolate it? I pulled the wires off the CDI and tested as the manual stated. POS on one and run down the others with the common noting the readings.

Any help would be great...about ready to pull the trigger on a new one if I need multiple ignition parts.

Just a little background---built a '77 mako from stringers up over the last 3years 9months..last piece of the puzzle and trying to get out there with my kids

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Ok, after going to the pool and a couple of beers I did some more research. I found a site CDI ELECTRONICS that seems to spell it out a little better than my manual...lets see if this is any better..

White/Red Trigger-White/Yellow Trigger 362...they say 280-430
White/Black Trigger-White/Green Trigger 357...they say 280-430
White/Red Trigger-Eng Ground 1.37....they say open
White/Black Trigger-Eng Ground 1.61...they say open
White/Yellow Trigger-Eng Ground 1.37...they say open
White/Green Trigger-Eng Ground 1.67...They say open

Brown Stator-Red Stator 1.1...they say 840-1260 OHMS (BAD)
Brown Stator-Eng Ground 47.3...They say Open (Bad)
Blue Stator-Black/Red Stator 132...they say 65-130
Blue Stator-Eng Ground 1.3...they say open
Black/Red Stator-Eng Ground 1.3...they say open

Looks like the a short on the brown wire? I'm getting the DVA for any other testing, but is it safe to say the stator is fried?

Thanks guys and have a great weekend!

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Your readings do not make since to me, If all of those reading to ground are less than 2 ohms as you list them, then you would be reading less than 2 ohms between most of the other wires as you show them as grounded also. Unless you are not giving the readings you are getting in ohms

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Yes, it's in ohms..The second time I tested I went through the CDI. I'll pull the wires and test again. My father in law will be over tomorrow and he was an electrical engineer for Honeywell. I'm sure he can tell me what I'm doing wrong on the testing side.

A question I have that is puzzling me. I thought this was a fuel problem as I could get the boat up on plane to about 25kts or 3800RPMS. Is it possible to run 2-cylinders that fast? Just wondering if there is a high speed/low speed pick up... Trying to understand this system.

Thanks 99 for the help!

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Your manual should tell you if you have a low and high speed charge coils and which wires to test for them.
Or at least which wires to be testing voltage on for the inputs and out puts of the CDI to see if there is a problem with any of them.

I have found that my timing light made a difference as to which way I clamped it onto the plug wire, if it would not light up I would reverse the direction on the wire. It was opposite direction of the arrow on the induction clamp. Just a thought.

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

I'll give it a shot and try to come up with more info once I get the DVA..

Thanks!

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

My manual is crap for the high speed and low speed pickups. They are telling me to pull the white wire bullet connector, but I don't have one...I have the 4 white with strips running to the pickups...Do I test from the white striped wire to the body of the pickup? Disconnected from the CDI box?

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Re: Testing Ignition System Tips

Mullet, you have a PM
At the top right of the page click on Notifications and then Inbox