[floydff]

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience trying to repair the pitting on a gear housing? I'm hoping to soon get my boat out of being held hostage for the last three months at the "Platinum" Mercruiser Marina, after having ANOTHER new engine installed. Now, I've found out that the lower unit has some areas of severe corrosion/pitting. Before scrapping the lower unit, I was considering either trying some Marine-Tex epoxy, or maybe welding (Heli-arc?), or some other suggestion to delay the replacement on a boat that I've only driven for 20 minutes so far. It has a 1996 Bravo III outdrive. I'll be replacing the anodes, and installing a second Mercathode, and the boat will usually be on a lift, but I don't want to replace the lower unit yet if I don't have to. But, I also don't want to have a hole get eaten through, and then lose the entire outdrive when the oil leaks out and salt water enters. Anyone have any tips?? Thanks!

[Bond-o]

Search for a Used freshwater housing.........Your Plan sounds like a Recipe for Disaster.$$$$$$

[Bt Doctur]

You might want to try filling the holes and glassing it first using a light cloth.The big job is to identify the cause of the corrosion.Using the correct bottom paint? Is the bottom paint kept 1 inch away from the transom assembly? Are all the underwater components properly bonded together? Any power cords or chargers used?Zincs changed on a regular basis?

[Hog Wild]

Wow, you already have that bad of corrosion? More than good paint will not just protect it along with good anodes? I had an old outboard that I hit a rock on and had it welded. That worked. But it never looked the same. It had lumps and bumps where the extra weld was as the aluminum housing is rather thin. I just keep up the paint and anodes and don't have an issue. If you're well beyond that, you can buy new housings off the net what I would consider rather inexpensive and not worth messing around trying to save a corroding one.

[floydff]

Several people have already asked about the condition of the bonding, anodes, etc. I literally only owned the boat for 20 minutes, and was bringing it home for the first time, when it died. While it initially died because the marina put a bad sheet metal screw connection on the negative to the ignition module that broke, after it backfired some water got in 4 of the cylinders and then the "Platinum" authorized marina let the water sit in it for 2 months being stubborn (saying the water was from the exhaust manifolds, but they didn't know why they didn't recommend installing new manifolds during the prior installation) before ever looking at the engine (they had installed it and it only had 7 hours) and by then the motor was shot (and they eventually found that the water wasn't from the manifolds, it was from the engine quitting at a high rpm and/or later backfiring).I know the anodes need to be replaced, and someone may have painted too close to the transom assembly. However, since that same great marina wanted to hit me for over $3k for just the lower unit (or $6k-$7k for the entire outdrive), I want them to just get the boat running so I can get it out of there.From what I've seen on-line, you can buy a housing for around $1200-$1300. But, then I will have to find someone that can transfer all of the guts. One company in Florida said they can do it, and look at the upper section as well, for around $2500. That's why I was checking into possible alternatives; since I don't even know if I'll like this boat yet. So far it has just made for a LOUSY summer. Thanks again for the input!

[rodbolt]

hello sorry to hear you have had such a bad time. the bravoIII was noted for corrosion. if you trailer it or keep it on a lift make sure you use 80 grit paper on all the anodes just prior to launch. once that anode gets that nice white coating it is no longer an anode and is just extra weight. there are many bullitens about extra anodes and checking the mercathode system. you may ask your dealer if you can see them. good luck but you may try to carefully clean and repaint the surfaces. most of the corrosion seems to occur at the aft edge of the case about 4" from any oil. we had more problems with the bearing carriers corroding away than cases.

[mckender]

If you are still looking for housing parts I have an upper and lower housing and bearing carrier all used for sale. I recently bought the boat in colorado and to the best of my knowledge it has only been in fresh water. If you are interested I will send pictures.

[TilliamWe]

If it just pitting on the housing, Marine Tex will work just fine. The thing you really need to check closely is the rear bearing carrier. If it is corroded too badly, you'll have to replace it. However, they can corrode quite a bit before the drive leaks.

[TilliamWe]

Another alternative is a brand new SEI Bravo 1 lower unit for $895. Yeah, you'll lose the twin props, and you'll have to buy a new prop, but it might be the least expensive fix, if your lower unit truly is junk.

[Bond-o]

Originally Posted by mckender

Today, 02:03 PM If you are still looking for housing parts I have an upper and lower housing and bearing carrier all used for sale. I recently bought the boat in colorado and to the best of my knowledge it has only been in fresh water. If you are interested I will send pictures.

rodbolt;... September 21st, 2004 04:08 AM

Ayuh,... Welcome Aboard mckender,...

This thread is 4 Years Old,.... I gotta believe that the OP has done Something by now,....
And,....
Your post is considered Spamming,... Aka; Selling stuff.....
It's Frowned upon here at iboats......