1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

Well, I finally got started on the demo work. The boat has been stripped, the cap is off, and I've ripped a hole in the rear section of the deck to get an idea of what I'm up against. The transom and deck have to be replaced and I know some of the flotation foam is wet. It looks like my center stringer is hollow and I'm hoping they all are. That would certainly lighten the work load.

The cap was glassed on all the way around on the top/outside (it looked like the manufacturer laid a strip of wet-out glass around the inside top of the hull and then set the cap on and clamped it in place) , the back of the splash well was glassed to the inside of the transom, and inside/under the cap was glassed to the top/inside of the wall nearly all the way around. If I had known how this thing was put together before hand I seriously doubt I'd have ever started on it. But the damage is done now.

I intended to take a pic before I started but had to wait for a camera delivery. Anyway here's where it stands now.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

In one pic you can see the back end of the splash well still has the layer of glass attached from the inside of the transom. In the cap pic you can see some of the glass that had it attached to the hull wall. The white area on the cap was a layer of glass applied between the cap and the hull wall.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

As you can see, I didn't get a lot done today - Gettin' old isn't bad but it really sux when you feel all the years. At least I fount a "hint" of a silver lining on this particular storm cloud - the stringers are hollow so I don't have to tear out and replace them. They're just hollow fiberglass channels. I cut all the glass at the deck/side wall joint and ripped it all out and cut all the glass at the ends of the transom so I can remove all the rotten wood. I barely got started taking out the plywood deck and foam (enough to check the stringers anyway). Energy seems to be in short supply these days, especially working under direct sunlight.

I'm still debating with myself concerning a few things: 1st - I'm thinking about NOT replacing the foam under the deck and providing drain holes in those compartments so water can get out. I don't go off shore and I do have foam in the walls. I just don't like the idea of trapping more water under the deck. I know it's coast guard (or who ever) regulations on manufactured boats, but if it doesn't serve a structural purpose then whats the point AND how much flotation does water-logged foam provide anyway?

2nd thing is epoxy or polyester. I've never used polyester. I'm somewhat familiar with epoxy after building three strip-built kayaks with clear epoxy and cloth and I have some 6 oz and 1 1/2 e-glass and a little 4 oz s-glass on hand. If I went with epoxy then how much glass on the deck, deck/ side wall joints, and transom/side wall/deck joints.

3rd thing is the finish: the boat was painted years ago - Amerflint paint over gelcoat. Should I repaint or apply a couple of fresh coats of gelcoat?

If any of you could help me make up my mind on some of these things it would be greatly appreciated.

Here's a pic of today's damage.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

I finally got the deck, the transom, and the foam out. Now comes the fun part - grinding and sanding everything to clean up all the bits and pieces of foam, wood, and fiberglass. I've got one small slit to repair where I cut through the hull right where the front edge of the transom plywood and the sump area meet. I may have to cut the sump area out to repair it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I've been debating what kind of ply to use for the transom. I guess I'll go back with what they used originally - pine plywood. I could still smell the fat in the ply where it was still solid after 37 years.

Have any of you ever found hollow stringers in your boat? They're just rectangle fiberglass channels about 4 1/4" wide and the wall thickness is about 1/8". In one pic you can see a hole in the top front end of the center stringer. A drain in the deck allowed water to flow off the deck, down through the stringer to the sump area at the stern. The areas that were filled with foam has no way for water to get out. I'm somewhat inclined to cut drain holes and leave the foam out.

Any thoughts from the pros on the board would be very much appreciated.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

Wll you've asked alot of questions and then more before we could answer, but that's okay I'll do the best I can.

#1 I would you polyester resins....cheaper and eaiser to work with (you'll find mixed views here about that)

#2 I would not gelcoat it, sand it down good and paint it (you'll find mixed views on that too) There are lots of good marine paints out there, that can be sprayed or rolled & tip or just brushed on.

#3 Nothing odd about the hollow stringers.

#4 Plywood is fine for your transom....again mixed views, many will recommend marine grade plywood ( I do) others will suggest just regular AC exterior from your local home center. Either is okay.

#5 I wouldn't leave out the foam.....I'm a bit of safety guy there, the foam is a floation method (not for the boat under normal conditions, but to provide somthing for you to hang on to in the event of a sinking emergency)

I hope I got them all....if not ask again.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

Tnx Cadwelder, for the response. Do you have any experience with the pourable foam like us composits sells. I've used their glass cloth and epoxy in the past but have never had a need for foam. Also, I was thinking about pulling the live well and resealing it just to be sure but I can't tell yet if its glassed to the hull on the bottom. Your expertise is appreciated.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

KC4ZQZ said:

Tnx Cadwelder, for the response. Do you have any experience with the pourable foam like us composits sells. I've used their glass cloth and epoxy in the past but have never had a need for foam. Also, I was thinking about pulling the live well and resealing it just to be sure but I can't tell yet if its glassed to the hull on the bottom. Your expertise is appreciated.

Click to expand...

Yes I've used thier foam several times, good stuff. Buy one of those little mixing paddle for your cordless drill and mix the two parts with it for about 20 seconds before pouring, it work alot better than just stirring with a stick. You gotta work quickly though so just mix small amounts at a time.

Use the three cup method. One cup for Part A only, one cup for part B only, and the third to mix them in. Now part A and B cup you can use over and over, mixing cup is a one time shot. I use the plastic drinking cups, thier cheap.

On your live well, I've seen both ways....just have to see how yours is attached.

Oh and "expertise"....well thanks, but I'm not a pro, just done alot of it.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

Cadwelder, if you've restored/repaired one you're more knowledgable than I so thanks for the info. I'm starting to lean more toward replacing the foam. I'd like to put everything back as it was unless I see a really better way. My wife says I won't be happy unless I fix it right.(I got a good one!) How much foam do you mix at a time and how much volume will it produce @ 80*F or higher? I guess I'm having a problem picturing how this stuff will flow/expand when you pour it into the cavity. That would make for a very informative video - pouring and trimming 2 part urethane foam. Anybody made one yet?

The pic shows where I got my limited experience with glass cloth and clear epoxy. They are glassed with varying amounts of glass inside and out as deck and hull then glassed together - much like my bass boat.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

I mix an 8 ounce cup at a time (makes 16 oz, equal parts of A and B)

I would start with smaller amounts, say half that, until you get used to pouring it.

Go to youtube and type in 2 part foam.....there are several video's on it.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

I checked out some of the videos, it looks about like the same stuff they spray into walls for insulation. My live well seems to be glassed to the hull. Can I reseal it without completely removing it or is there something between the bottom of the live well and the hull that needs attention also? Viewing the thru the hull fittings from underneath it looks like they were sealed originally with clear silicone.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

KC4ZQZ said:

I checked out some of the videos, it looks about like the same stuff they spray into walls for insulation. My live well seems to be glassed to the hull. Can I reseal it without completely removing it or is there something between the bottom of the live well and the hull that needs attention also? Viewing the thru the hull fittings from underneath it looks like they were sealed originally with clear silicone.

Click to expand...

Most likey was silicone, it's okay for some things but not below the waterline. Reseal it with 3M 4200.

Well when you say "reseal it" I'm not sure what you're asking there.

As far as is there anything underneath, probably not, but I can't see it.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

Hey Cadwelder, I'm wondering if I need to pull the live well completely out or if just removing the thru the hull fittings, clean or replace them, and reinstall with 3M 4200 will do the job. After going this far I want to be as sure as I can be that no water can get in - conceding of course that humans do have limitations. Is the 3M 4200 or 5200 a better sealant than silicone? I looked at the fittings from underneath again and the stuff around the fittings is still flexable after all this time.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

Charles, I saw a question of yours in another thread. You use cabosil from US composites to thicken resins. 4200 is a less permanent version of 5200, both are far better than caulk.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

Thanks Zopperman, I ordered some cabosil from USC - supposed to be here monday. I'm not sure what I have but thought it was silica. It produced a white,hard, pasty filler that I'm not fully convinced will seal the wood. I think I'll drill it all out and re-fill monday before I install the transom. Plus I'll use 5200 on all the hardware going into/thru the wood.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

There have been many many thru hull fittings sealed with silicone over the years and to say it won't work....well yeah it will, but it's just not the best material for below the water line of a water craft. The 3M 5200 is a more permanant sealer than the 4200 but either will work. It's not like you're going to be taken them in and out very often.... 3M also makes a marine grade silicone, but still best for applications above the water line.

CW

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

Does this model have any floatation compartment? Just curious...

KC4ZQZ said:

I finally got the deck, the transom, and the foam out. Now comes the fun part - grinding and sanding everything to clean up all the bits and pieces of foam, wood, and fiberglass. I've got one small slit to repair where I cut through the hull right where the front edge of the transom plywood and the sump area meet. I may have to cut the sump area out to repair it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I've been debating what kind of ply to use for the transom. I guess I'll go back with what they used originally - pine plywood. I could still smell the fat in the ply where it was still solid after 37 years.

Have any of you ever found hollow stringers in your boat? They're just rectangle fiberglass channels about 4 1/4" wide and the wall thickness is about 1/8". In one pic you can see a hole in the top front end of the center stringer. A drain in the deck allowed water to flow off the deck, down through the stringer to the sump area at the stern. The areas that were filled with foam has no way for water to get out. I'm somewhat inclined to cut drain holes and leave the foam out.

Any thoughts from the pros on the board would be very much appreciated.

Click to expand...

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

View attachment 119609hey itiger,
It has ~4" thick styrofoam in the sidewalls abt 10" high x 12' long, and it HAD spray-in foam between the deck and the hull bottom between the stringers. I guess I'll debate drain holes in those cavities or putting the foam back under the deck 'till the last minute.
I've got the 2 pieces of plywood (3/4" pt kiln-dried)for the transom cut, shaped, and glassed together. All the transom thru-holes will be drilled !/4"" oversize, filled with thickened resin, and then re-drilled to the correct size prior to installing. This will give an 1/8"thick "bushing" of thickened resin to seal the wood around all the bolts and drain tubes. I'm also including 2 extra 3/8" holes 7" apart (also "resin-bushing" lined) vertically on the left side of the transom to mount my home-made transducer mounting plate.

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

Ok, we'll see if the pics will work now.View attachment 119651View attachment 119652

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

I noticed the bow eye was slightly loose so I remved it and found it was almost rusted into. I cut out the wooden backer-block and replaced it and beefed up the area with some extra glass. After I filled the old holes and re-drilled for the new 1/2" ss bow eye I didn't like the angle it hit the front of the boat. Sooo, I sanded down to clean glass and added a few layers of cms to change the shape of the front just a little for a better match up.
View attachment 119656 View attachment 119657

Re: 1974 Ouachita Tri-hull Bass Boat Restoration

None of your pics are working. Due to a glitch with the forum software, you must click the Go Advanced button when posting if you want to upload pics.