Clutch dog question

moyster

Cadet
Joined
Mar 7, 2011
Messages
18
Hello all!

I am a newbie and would like to first say 'thank you' for the wealth of shared information here; it has helped me with a 1966 33 HP Johnson tiller I recently purchased. I need to inquire about the clutch dog and how it should properly function on the prop shaft.

I ran the motor a few times to find out what all I needed to do with the motor other than a tune up and carb rebuild and found that it was darn near impossible to move the shift arm into forward, neutral or reverse. While opening my lower unit to clean out some silt that had made it's way into there via a bad seal I believe I may have found the issue but need an experienced opinion.

When removing the gears and bearings to inspect and clean them I was not able to simply slide the clutch dog off of the prop shaft. After some leverage and inappropriate language I managed to slide the clutch dog down the shaft to discover that the prop shaft is the upgraded version (according to the repair manual) with the spring and detent balls. This set up was holding the part firmly in place.

My question is: could I use the clutch dog without the spring set up? The part moves easily from side to side on the prop shaft without them. If I should not operate without the spring set up, could the spring possibly be too firm due to age and need replacing?

Any assistance from prior experience with this is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 

dew2

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 6, 2010
Messages
674
Re: Clutch dog question

I have read that upgrade of the spring and detentballs with the proper clutch dog was for keeping the dog engauged in gear,If it was that hard to shift,I would try it without the spring and balls,when these detent balls work is when the clutch dog has machined channels on its inside splines, if your clutchdog has no groves that the detent balls sit in its not the full upgrade.the dog needs those groves for the detent balls.
Then again it is possible someone installed the clutchdog with the detent slots not aligned with the detent balls.Look inside the dog, see any machined grooves running opposite the splines?Midway in the dog.
 

moyster

Cadet
Joined
Mar 7, 2011
Messages
18
Re: Clutch dog question

Yes, the machined channels are inside the splines of the clutch dog. So perhaps I should give it a try without the spring and detent balls; I would just hate to need to reopen and reseal the housing if doing this caused more harm than good.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
Re: Clutch dog question

The detent balls and sping were put in there for a very good reason: To make it "snap" into gear and save wear and tear on the parts. I strongly suggest you reinstall the parts.

Now, possibly it might have the wrong spring, although I've never seen anybody do that. Possibly somebody trying to compensate for a worn dog and gear??? I do believe the V4 motors had a longer spring.
 

dew2

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 6, 2010
Messages
674
Re: Clutch dog question

The case F_R makes about the spring being to long......On a 25 the springs is long enough to have one ball in the shaft flush with the shaft, the other ball is not in at all meaning the spring opposite the inserted ball is flush with the shaft.
When both balls are in the shaft equally 1/2 of them are in the shaft 1/2 are out.It is a strong spring!
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,195
Re: Clutch dog question

And make sure the ramps are aligned with the balls. If the balls are off-center, rotate the dog 180 degrees
 

moyster

Cadet
Joined
Mar 7, 2011
Messages
18
Re: Clutch dog question

Looks like when I reinstall everything I will be including the spring and detent balls.

Thank you for the responses, I really appreciate it.
 
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