Re: Rebuilding Tiedown brake caliper
The pins are probably ok, it is the caliper parts that slide that will need cleaning and rust removal and then a lubricant that will not wash off put on the slide parts. If there is any binding or drag on the slides then the brakes will not fully release and will run hot. The part of the caliper that the piston is in has to slide in the part that is solid mounted to the axle, this is what needs to be cleaned and lubed. I had to work on my brakes last year, I dip in Saltwater most of the time, the caliper parts had rusted and were binding, I found this when I replaced the brake lines from the master cylinder to both calipers, I also needed new pads, when I seperated the caliper to put in the pads I found the rust, the pins were fine, I cleaned and lube everything, put back together and did a stop and go roadtest, hubs got slightly warm, they were getting hot before.
You also need to check the wheel bearings, on disc brakes you do not want any wheel wobble, the bearings need to be snug to the point there is no shake in the wheel. Disc brakes are designed to run almost touching the rotor, there is .0003 run out built into a rotor so the first revolution of the wheel on take off will shove the pads back so they are not touching, a loose bearing can let the wheel lean and rub the pads all of the time causing overheat and of course excessive wear.
One other thing that can cause this is if the brake fluid cannot return to the master cylinder, rubber lines can sometimes come apart inside and close of the return of fluid, the master cylinder can push the fluid out but the hose will not let it return.