New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

2000svtowner · Mar 6, 2011

I know right replacing the floor in a Bayliner! No Way right? I have already cut most of the old floor out and replaced the floor with 3/4 inch treated plywood. I have already bought a 30 foot roll on marine grade carpet I think it is Lancer brand or something like that. My Question is this....is there any product out there that I can put down over the wood instead of fiberglassing the whole floor? I have never used fiberglass but i really want to roll something over the wood to protect it.

fat fanny · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

What did the underside of the deck look like? were the stringers and transom in good order? if not your just gonna be wasting your $ and if you don't encapsulate the wood below the deck and the deck it's self yoour just waisting your time because it's just gonna rot if not from exposure it surely will from moisture below! fiberglass is mostlikely the cost effective and long term material to coat and wood surface on a boat to prevent any further rot

Woodonglass · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

WHOA, there fellow Okie!!!! Before you start covering things up, a few questions. Is this an I/O or and Outboard? How big is it? Did you check the Stringers and the transom? Are you wanting to KEEP this boat for any period of time? Are you wanting to Sell it after you are done with it? SAFETY should be your NUMBER 1 concern.

As for QUESTION about sealing your deck. I would NOT advise anything other than Glass if you want it to last more than a season or two.

rickryder · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

Welcome to iboats!

If your going to use PT for your floor (we don't call them that here they are decks)

make sure it's good and dry. I prefer marine plywood or ext. grade ply cdx. The only sure fire way to keep it from rotting is to glass the deck. Also keep in mind that PT plywood will rot metal so all of your fasteners must be ACQ compliant. Stainless or ceramic coated only! Regular screws and bolts will rust away along with any other metal it contacts except copper.There is great information at the top of the restoration/rebuilding section in regards to fiberglass and how to apply it.

Were here to help you out. Good luck with your project

2000svtowner · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

Ha yeah I did inspect the stringers and transom and everything was solid...the reason I pulled the whole floor up was because there was a soft spot infront of the dog house by the gas tank and on the sides of the motor. I just wanted to make sure I would have the boat for awhile It is a 2000 2150 cl with a I/O with a 305 in it.

sandersps · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

Why is it that when somebody has to replace the floor in a bayliner its no big surprise, but other makes needing a floor replacement is a shocker? I have 93 bayliner that is solid as a rock, but friscoboater down is down in texas doin a lot of glass and wood work to his sea-ray. Not pickin on you frisco just making the point that typically rot is a direct effect of owner care. (Typically, not always)

As for your floor covering, I expect some of the glassmasters on here will give you some tips shortly and ask you how your core samples of the stringers looked. They ar probably the best free advice you can get on the internet.

2000svtowner · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

rickryder said:
Welcome to iboats!

If your going to use PT for your floor (we don't call them that here they are decks) make sure it's good and dry. I prefer marine plywood or ext. grade ply cdx. The only sure fire way to keep it from rotting is to glass the deck. Also keep in mind that PT plywood will rot metal so all of your fasteners must be ACQ compliant. Stainless or ceramic coated only! Regular screws and bolts will rust away along with any other metal it contacts except copper.There is great information at the top of the restoration/rebuilding section in regards to fiberglass and how to apply it.

Were here to help you out. Good luck with your project

Yeah I work at lowes and got 4 sheets of 3/4 PT for 5 bucks a pop so I couldnt pass it up. I used deck screws throughout the floor. It looks like I will be trying my hand at fiberglass this weekend! I have some pics I will upload and show you the damage!

oops! · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

hi....

hang on here.......do you want to do it right....or just put a floor in it?
to do it right takes very little time .......and i dont care what you apply to the new deck......with a rug on it ....it wont be long before its waterlogged and weighs 250 lbs. especially with the small defencies of the 2000 b liners, especially around the fuel tanks

do a search on glassing decks.....both under and over.....it only takes a few extra hours...its really a no brainer.

you can also use the index in the link in my sig....its all there

rickryder · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

^ There's the glassmaster himself

sandersps · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

oops may have gone through a pint or two in his day. (of resin that is)

rickryder · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

sandersps said:
oops may have gone through a pint or two in his day. (of resin that is)

I think he has it in an IV bottle

2000svtowner · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

ok Fiberglass is the way to go...I have the floor in already but the bottom is not glassed....is this going to be a big problem? Or am i ok?

rickryder · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

Get your screw gun charged up.....I would pull it up and glass the bottom with a layer of 1.5oz CSM plus fill the screw holes ya got now with 3M 5200 sealant...

oops! · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

if its just screwed down ...i would take it out.

the b liners had drainage problems around the doghouse causing water to get under the deck in that area....
besides that...if its just screwed down.....chances are that you didnt seal the screws or even used the wrong kind of screws....

id pull it.

if its glued and screwed.....well....we can help you with that too !

2000svtowner · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

Well Hell...I dont know if I can get the floor up without messing it up. My father in law and I did the floor this weekend and we used alot of glue on the bottom of the wood to get it to stick. How long do you thing it will last if I fiberglass the top really well?

oops! · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

that all depends on how well you treat the boat, and how you store it......as you know it came from the factory with out the bottom of the deck being glassed.

what kind of glue did you use?

2000svtowner · Mar 6, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

It is stored in a covered building when not in use...we used contact cement and wood glue to put the wood in. I was wondering If they glassed the bottom from the factory becasue it didnt look like they did.

sandersps · Mar 7, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

were you at in oklahoma? welcome to the forum.

Woodonglass · Mar 7, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

I seriously doubt that contact cement and wood glue will adhere that well to the stringers. I guess I will be the one to ask. What did you do to check that the stringers and the transom were good and ready to go? Were they covered with fiberglass or just raw wood? Another thing to consider, is that PT plywood can be "WET" and at times needs to be DRIED before installing your glass or the glass will not adhere properly. IMHO you should slow down a bit and do some reading here on the forum to make sure you do this right. Why is it we never have the time to do things right but always have time to GO BACK and do it again.

Yacht Dr. · Mar 7, 2011

Re: New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

2000svtowner said:
Well Hell...I dont know if I can get the floor up without messing it up. My father in law and I did the floor this weekend and we used alot of glue on the bottom of the wood to get it to stick. How long do you thing it will last if I fiberglass the top really well?

And this is why I Never screw and Glue my decks down

.

Personally I think your in for trouble ripping out your deck..at this point of no return this is what I would do..

Get some clay and press them into your deck screwheads..

Make sure your PT deck is nice and dry..then glass down 2 layers of 1.5 oz mat..

Put down your glue and carpet.

Any other fasteners you put into your deck should be drilled/dryfit then pulled off and 4200 into the holes then hard mounted.

Just me though..

YD.

New guy from Oklahoma replacing the floor in a 2000 bayliner!!! Help!!

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