1983 Bass boat transom re-do.

My transom checked out ok 3 years ago when I started working on the floor and stringers but I am thinking now that it is all done that maybe I should have done the transom as well. I have had a lot of time to read the posts on here and follow others rebuilds, laid off for over a year now, but still have questions. Some I may eventually find answers to but will ask some as well. The boat handles very well since removing the water soaked foam, is rated for 60 HP, but has never had bigger then a 50 on her. Currently I have a 40 Lark on her and she moves more then fast enough for the local lakes and has never been a problem on the river. I want to up the HP to 50 or 55, which is why I am looking at the transom again. It seems that everyone replaces the transom after removing the whole cap. Can I remove just the back part, splash well back, and get it done? My cap is attached to the sides and floor. Since I replaced the floor and stringers I know that it is permanently attached; construction adhesive, fiberglass and stainless steel screws holding it down. The paint is still very nice so I really do not want to have to cut a lot but have marked an area that will show the least when I shoot new matching paint. I will attach pics of the back end and mark the area where I plan to cut. The transom is standard 1 1/2 inch thick, 5' wide at the top and 20 1/2 inches tall at the center. After reading some posts I also discovered, by squeezing my large frame into a very tight spot, that the inner transon area does not have fiberglass on it. It is painted and undercoated? I plan to fiberglass the new transom in.

Re: 1983 Bass boat transom re-do.

Why not just check the transom out again now, with some test holes (put a stop on the bit somehow so you dont' go thru). If it still checks out okay, seal up the test holes, slap on the new 50 and head to the lake.

Re: 1983 Bass boat transom re-do.

Here is a pic of the transom area. Red line is one thought of cutting, yellow is the other. The red line is the front of the splash well the yellow is the middle. I want just enough room to get the new wood in and be able to apply glass to tie it into the hull.

Re: 1983 Bass boat transom re-do.

Cadwelder said:

Why not just check the transom out again now, with some test holes (put a stop on the bit somehow so you dont' go thru). If it still checks out okay, seal up the test holes, slap on the new 50 and head to the lake.

Click to expand...

I plan to do this when it gets warm but the way my luck has been the past two months I am getting ready for the worst while hoping for the best. Noone plans to fail they just fail to plan. Since I have the time I am making all the plans now while the weather is still cold. Thank you for your input. I also already have all the materials to do the project so I am only investing labor this time round.

Re: 1983 Bass boat transom re-do.

Your plan for a partial "De-Capitation" has been done many times.


Are your Stringers attached to the transom? Is there a Bilge? I would make the cut right in the MIDDLE of the Splash well. Would make the re-assembly much easier IMHO. If you are a decent "Glasser" you will be able to make the "Seam" invisible to most everyone. Your Most Difficult task will be matching that metal flake GelCoat (its probably NOT paint). You Might be able to Paint it and Clear Coat it but most likely not. OR on the rail where it will be the MOST noticeable, you could fabricate a polished aluminum strip to cover the seam and make it look factory.

Final option, but pricey, would be an Electric Chainsaw and NIDABOND.

Lots to think about.

Re: 1983 Bass boat transom re-do.

What make/model is the boat a bomber?

Re: 1983 Bass boat transom re-do.

Woodonglass- There is one stringer down the middle that stops short of the transom, where the bilge pump sits. There is very little space under the floor to the hull except right in the middle. The floor also stops about 2 feet (I think) from the transom (where the batteries and gas tank are stored). The paint match will not be a problem, what you see is the paint I put on it about three years ago, green base coat with metal flake clear followed by more clear. I still want to sand with 2000 grit and apply another coat of clear to finish it off. I have a lot of fiberglass and paint experience thanks to car work. Chainsaw option is out, loaned it to a relative and it came back broken. Told me it was that way when I gave it to him, full of dirt like he cut wood laying on the ground, grrrrrrrr. I actually drew up some designs including aluminum pieces on the rail and moving the cleats to sit on top of them. Steelestandn- Sorry I should have posted the specifics of the boat. It is an Arrow Glass Phantom, 14foot tri-hull.

Re: 1983 Bass boat transom re-do.

Well, Alrighty Then. If she were Mine I would cut the Rails and the splashwell as I described and rip out the transom, build a new one, glass and tab her in, Glass the cap back on, Paint her, and Go Fishin. Sounds like you got the skill and the will to git er dun