Need some advice. I have a 2000 Mercury 200HP outboard (Carb) with no compression on one cylinder (top on Starboard side). Long story short, oil line came off, did not notice(dont know how), was running at ~3000 RPM and motor shut down and coasted to stall. Not sure if shut down with some safety interlock (temp, oil). There was no sudden lock of the motor. Repaired oil line, put oil in and started right up. HOWEVER, I could tell something was not quite right so idled to a dock in about 5 minutes and took out of water(30 miles around St Clair...lol)
I have worked on cars and 2 stroke motorcycles most of my life, but never tore into an outboard. I have searched through this forum and found some great info but wanted to throw this out to those of you who are more experienced.
So: I did compression test and found no compression on the one cylinder. All other cylinders were in spec. Sorry, lost numbers, but clearly the issue is the one cylinder that is dead. I did not see obvious "damage" in the cylinder, but feel certain that the cylinder is glazed and rings are gone. This motor was rebuilt by factory authorized dealer~5 yrs ago. It has ~4-500 hrs on it since that time.
I see no other choice than to pull the head and inspect the cylinders. In fact, I dont see any way around splitting the block.
So here are my questions for you all:
- Would your approach be to dive right in, pull the head and split block to inspect?
- Do you think it is possible that new rings and good crosshatch honing could do the trick?....or am I looking at an oversize bore. I know you cant tell for sure without numbers and a visual, but just a gut feel would do.
-Assuming I split the block and I can get by with rings and hone, wouldn't it make since to do all cylinders? Seems like a no brainer, but with 4-500 hrs and if they look good and compression is in spec....?
-What else should I be looking for? My thought is, if I dont "see" anything obvious, then dont mess with taking the crank out....but is that nieve?....I would inspect the rod bearing and piston pin bearing, and if visual ok then go with it.
-About splitting the block: I dont have the motor right with me now, but from the diagrams I assume the way to approach is from the intake plate side and leave the cylinder part of the power head attached to the drive shaft mount, then go at the rod bearing cap from there?
Sorry for the long post, but wanted to give and ask some details to start this thread.
Thanks for taking time to help.
I have worked on cars and 2 stroke motorcycles most of my life, but never tore into an outboard. I have searched through this forum and found some great info but wanted to throw this out to those of you who are more experienced.
So: I did compression test and found no compression on the one cylinder. All other cylinders were in spec. Sorry, lost numbers, but clearly the issue is the one cylinder that is dead. I did not see obvious "damage" in the cylinder, but feel certain that the cylinder is glazed and rings are gone. This motor was rebuilt by factory authorized dealer~5 yrs ago. It has ~4-500 hrs on it since that time.
I see no other choice than to pull the head and inspect the cylinders. In fact, I dont see any way around splitting the block.
So here are my questions for you all:
- Would your approach be to dive right in, pull the head and split block to inspect?
- Do you think it is possible that new rings and good crosshatch honing could do the trick?....or am I looking at an oversize bore. I know you cant tell for sure without numbers and a visual, but just a gut feel would do.
-Assuming I split the block and I can get by with rings and hone, wouldn't it make since to do all cylinders? Seems like a no brainer, but with 4-500 hrs and if they look good and compression is in spec....?
-What else should I be looking for? My thought is, if I dont "see" anything obvious, then dont mess with taking the crank out....but is that nieve?....I would inspect the rod bearing and piston pin bearing, and if visual ok then go with it.
-About splitting the block: I dont have the motor right with me now, but from the diagrams I assume the way to approach is from the intake plate side and leave the cylinder part of the power head attached to the drive shaft mount, then go at the rod bearing cap from there?
Sorry for the long post, but wanted to give and ask some details to start this thread.
Thanks for taking time to help.