I pulled the flywheel, now what?

I have a '65 Evinrude 6hp, received it from my grandpa last year after it sat for years without use. I rebuilt the carb last year and ran it with some intermittent starting issues this year. Put in new spark plugs during the summer, and last time out in October it started on one pull each time I yanked the rope. However I still planned on replacing coils, points, condensors, water pump, etc this winter due to the motor's age and for some fun.

I pulled the flywheel last night, and was quite surprised with what I found. The coils seem to be in great shape (not remotely dried or cracked), and everything under the wheel looked new. Only problem I came across was the points, as one of them couldn't be gapped, the adjustable part would not move far enough away from the spring loaded piece.

What should my next move be? I would love to keep this motor running for years, and I know the newer components are made of better more resilient material. I'll replace the impeller as it's never been changed. I plan on posting some pictures, but just not sure what my next move should be. With cleaned carb (should I do it again?), 90 compression in each cylinder, new plugs, and seemingly capable magneto parts I'm not sure why I ever had issues early in the year. Maybe the points/gap issue is something to look into further. Thanks for any advice or input!

Re: I pulled the flywheel, now what?

are the coils covered in a shellac/wax type stuff, or are they plastic coated? If they are plastic coated, someone has already been in there and replaced everything for you. I would replace the points for sure, and if the coils were plastic coated I would leave them.

Re: I pulled the flywheel, now what?

Coils are definitely covered in some brown, wax-type coating. The actual points look perfectly clean, besides that setting the gap issue, so would that change anything? Condensors as well? This motor was run well under 100 hours and I'm nearly positive no one has replaced anything, as my grandpa bought it brand new and has been the only owner. Thanks for the quick response.

Re: I pulled the flywheel, now what?

Hi NDNick. The points mus be adjusted precisely to .020" with the magneto plate on the engine as it would be if it were running and the lever arm of the points on the part of the cam which says TOP, and must be very clean. A .018" feeler gauge should be able to pass btwn the gap while a .022 should not. There should be just the faintest bit of resistance with a .020 gauge. Even a slight error in the gap can make a big diference. You may be able to get away with sanding down the point with fine grade sand paper, but be sure to clean every bit of grit away. Try sanding and regapping them, see if you get spark and you be be able to fire her up. However because you have the time and interest, I would recommend you replace them, especially if one of them is no longer able to pivot. You can get a "tune up" kit, which has points and condensers in it for about $10-15. Here at iboats and/or Napa auto parts stores are great places to get them. They're easy to replace and adjust and nothing to be intimidated of. Keep us posted. We like pics!

Re: I pulled the flywheel, now what?

Only problem I came across was the points, as one of them couldn't be gapped, the adjustable part would not move far enough away from the spring loaded piece.

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Are you turning the engine so that you adjust each set of points when its wiper is on the highest point of the cam ? I.e. open at its widest

It sounds as though you may not be.

Re: I pulled the flywheel, now what?

Definitely not, I was trying to set each of them without moving the flywheel. I figure if I turn the flywheel I will be able to see this. At what point should the .020" gap be measured? Sorry, all the instructions for gapping points simply say "gap points" without much further direction. I guess I didn't know points actually come into contact and move during the rotation of the flywheel.

Re: I pulled the flywheel, now what?

Rotate the crankshaft until the part of one set of points that touches the cam is on the highest point of the cam. The points will then be at their maximum distance apart. Now adjust the gap to 0.020"

now turn the crankshaft half a complete turn until the other set has its wiper on the highest point of the cam and is at its widest open. Now adjust those.

when the crankshaft is turning the points will open and close again alternately. the object of the adjustment is to get the maximum opening width set at 0.020".

Re: I pulled the flywheel, now what?

If the coils look good, then I would keep running them. It's when the insulation on them cracks, they start arcing out on the mag plate. I'm betting you'll be in good shape, one the points are set right. If you see a small piece of felt attached to the points, I would put a couple drops of oil on it. That will apply a small film of oil on the cam and lube up the heel of the points.

Re: I pulled the flywheel, now what?

If you see a small piece of felt attached to the points, I would put a couple drops of oil on it. That will apply a small film of oil on the cam and lube up the heel of the points

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If not a very thin film of grease on the cam will not go amiss. BUT you must not risk any oil or grease getting on the contacts themselves.

Re: I pulled the flywheel, now what?

good point. It may not be a bad idea to spray the entire mag plate down with brake cleaner, if you see oil in there around all the components, so nothing will get on the points later on.