Water in Oil

askyles

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
8
I apologize in advance for the long post. I just want to put down as much information about the problem as I can. I have had an issue that I need to address ASAP. I first want to say that this is my first post and I have been learning a lot from everyone on this forum so I just want to say thanks! Especially do Don S. I have learned a lot from reading your posts. I am a new boat owner for about a year now and I have a lot to learn.

I have not winterized my boat but I have been paying attention to the weather and heating my engine compartment when it gets below freezing with a 150 watt light bulb and it does the job nicely. However, the day after thanksgiving the temperature had not gone above 27 degrees since about 5:00 am. I went out to my boat about 6:00 pm that day. So about 11 hours. I had made the mistake of looking at the daily high, which in this case occurred in the early morning hours and assumed that my engine would be OK. I turn the bulb off in the day to save energy (I don't like wasting energy unless I have too). I was working in the house on a remodeling project all day long not going outside or thinking about going outside other than knowing I had to check on my boat in the evening. Here is where it starts. Sorry for the long introduction...

As I approached my boat I noticed that my tarp was folded in like it was filled up with water. I had not put the wood beam in yet as I was doing other things to my boat (preparing to put in new seats and such for the next season). As i pulled the tarp up to dump out the water a horrible sight hit my eyes. There was a huge chunk of ice that was in the bowed tarp. There was a fair amount of water as well so I know I did not get a super cold freeze. But, never the less. It was cold enough to have concerns. As i got in the boat I realized there was a hole in the tarp and it was at the spot to where the carburetor bolt stuck up out of the motor. I did not have my engine cover on (my first mistake). It makes sense to me, the tarp filled up and the pressure broke a hole where the bolt was sticking out where my carburetor and flame arrestor is.

I then noticed that it had leaked and my motor was literally covered in ice around the carburetor and I instantly panicked realizing I probably just ruined my perfectly good motor. I grabbed my Mr. Heater and immediately turned it up to 18,000 BTU to heat and melt as fast as possible to prevent any more damage. I then had the wise idea of starting my motor, yeah that will heat it up fast. Probably my second mistake. As I cranked it did turn over very slow at first. Possible hydro-lock even though it did not cross my mind at the time. I let it sit a few more minutes while the heater was going and resumed cranking. After a couple minutes of very slow cranks my gut told me I should wait until it warms up. (But I kept at it, my third mistake or extension on my second one).

I got it to fire, however it did not want to keep running and my belt was making a horrible squealing sound which I later determined it was the water pump not turning. I still kept cranking and after a few more times of it running 5 seconds or so before it quit, then the water pump started turning and the squealing stopped (or water pump broke inside). The motor then just stopped firing and upon inspection of the spark plugs the next day I realized why. The motor was flooded and spark plugs fouled because of it. I cranked it a lot more than I probably should have. That is about all I could do at that time and after a very poor night of sleep I went back at it the next day. Where the panic really sets in.

Upon inspecting the oil from the dip stick I noticed it was over full and it looked like chocolate milk.:mad: I love chocolate milk. In the oil is a very, very bad thing, even to my inexperience I know that. I called my mechanic friend who is an engine builder for roush racing. Of course I was praying he would say its likely a head gasket, his news was not what I wanted to hear. Probably cracked head or exhaust manifold. I had had my out drive off for replacing my impeller, which I hear its not a bad idea to replace yearly if your boat is always in the water. So in other words I had not had any pressure in to my engine when I ran it for those few seconds. My mechanic friend did not really have an explanation because there should not be that much water leaking in only running it for a few seconds and with no water pressure. Which leads me to a post I read on these forums.

Could the water have entered at my carburetor through my flame arrestor? That is exactly where the hole in the tarp was and it was raining before it turned cold. If this helps to get a better sense of the temperature that day, i had a cooler that had about 2 inches of water in it and a water bottle. Not a bit frozen at all. Had I had my motor cover on I believe I would not be posting this.

Where should I go from here? This weekend is the soonest I can work on it unfortunately. I plan to drain the oil, pressurize my system, clean my spark plugs and see if its still milky after running it. Is there anything else that can cause that much water in there under no water pressure? Everything I have read is after people running it with pressure so I cant help wondering if I need a new engine or not. I am not really looking forward to replacing the engine. Wife hates me having the boat in the first place so replacing the motor will cause many problems. (Futon already on order :p)

I want to get this problem fixed ASAP as I plan to do some pre-spawn walleye fishing on the Detroit River and Lake Erie as soon as the ice melts.

Also, I am unable to find the proper engine water pump which I should probably replace before putting back in service.

Problem

1. Engine below zero for about 10-11 hours. temp on my Gps/Fish finder said 27 when I went out there.
2. Ice covered motor (engine cover off)
3. Slow cranking at first (may have been hydro locked, all i remember is it was very very slow at first and sped up fast enough to fire up after a few minutes. However would not remain running for longer that 5 seconds at a time.
4. Temporarily frozen water pump (or just broke completely) upon cranking.
5. Water in the oil and over full. (however, it did not run pressurized, what ever water was left when I pulled it out of the water in August due to leaking shift cable bellow)


Thanks in advance for any help with this matter.


About my boat
1976 Starcraft Chieftain
Chevy inline 6 250 165 HP motor, not original motor.
Mercruiser Outdrive
Not a closed cooling system (freshwater)
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,525
Re: Water in Oil

Ayuh,... While it's possible the water entered through the carb, it would have also had to seep passed the rings to get to the oil...
If the cylinders were That full of water, it wouldn't have turned over, at All...
The circulating waterpump was probably just Frozen, 'n is probably all right now...

As Easy as it is to Drain an inline motor, Why are you screwin' around with a Lightbulb,..??
If you just Drain the block,.. Drain the manifold, 'n pull the Big hose off the circulating waterpump,...
Nothing can freeze, 'n cause Damage...
Air just Don't Freeze....

At this point,...
Drain off the Water that's under the oil in the base,...
Stuff a garden hose into the gimbel housing water hole, 'n Light the motor...
Get 'er warmed up, 'n change the oil...
Then run it up to temp to steam off any remaining moisture...
Then check the oil again for Water...
If water is present, it's probably a Cracked block...
If not,...
Drain the danm thing, 'n put 'er to bed...
 

askyles

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
8
Re: Water in Oil

As Easy as it is to Drain an inline motor, Why are you screwin' around with a Lightbulb,..??
If you just Drain the block,.. Drain the manifold, 'n pull the Big hose off the circulating waterpump,...
Nothing can freeze, 'n cause Damage...
Air just Don't Freeze....

Thanks for your response. That is exactly what I will do at this point. As I said before. I am new to boating and owned this boat for barley over a year. I paid someone last year to winterize it. I had no idea it was that easy to do. Ive been told before from many people to leave it to the professionals and not to risk it. But.. After looking at my service manual and what you said, it does not look too bad at all. Well, I guess this is a lesson learned. I will hope for the best and I will post when I can get to it this weekend..
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Re: Water in Oil

I called my mechanic friend who is an engine builder for roush racing. Of course I was praying he would say its likely a head gasket, his news was not what I wanted to hear. Probably cracked head or exhaust manifold.
Howdy,


I hate to say it but your mechanic friend is probably not correct in this case.

Marine engines don't usually get ONLY cracked heads or blown head gaskets from freezing.

They usually end up with a cracked block.

The water located in the cooling system usually pools in the block even if there's no water in the head.

So, as a result, the block cracks down around the lower part of the water jacket at the bottom of the cyls.

It then allows water to flow into the crankcase.


1. Engine below zero for about 10-11 hours. temp on my Gps/Fish finder said 27 when I went out there.
Which is it? 27 degrees or below ZERO? If it was only 27 degrees on the fish finder, it MAY NOT have gotten that cold in the engine over night.....

If it was ZERO, plan on your engine being "TOAST".

And if that's the case, you might start looking for a new engine now.

That engine is one of the most common engines used in GM trucks for many years. You can easily get one from a wrecking yard that would work just fine.

If you do replace it, you'll need to get a new manifold and probably riser too.


I hope this serves as warning to others that think a light bulb or other electrical heating system is just far too risky to use to protect a $3000+ raw water cooled marine engine....

Just DRAIN IT!



Good luck.


Rick
 

askyles

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
8
Re: Water in Oil

Which is it? 27 degrees or below ZERO? If it was only 27 degrees on the fish finder, it MAY NOT have gotten that cold in the engine over night.....

My apologies. I meant to say below freezing, not below zero. It was 27 when i went outside to check on it. If it was below zero I would definitely would be in the market for a new motor, without a thought. I honestly cant say for certain the exact temperature it was all day. But definitely a good part of it was below freezing.

That is a good idea about a junk yard. Im sure I can get a block and Im sure i can talk my buddy in to helping me rebuild one. Honestly, I don't want to spend hours and dollars trying to find the problem if its actually leaking water in. I just want to cut my losses and look for a motor to rebuild.
 

300sflyer

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
610
Re: Water in Oil

Until you change the oil and run it again, you won't know the extent of the damage if any.

If the temps are going to be below freezing, DRAIN the engine and exhaust manifold RIGHT AWAY.
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Re: Water in Oil

Ok.

Well, the 165 (250 cu-in) GM 6cyl was manufactured for 30+ years in one form or another, 230 cu-in, 250 cu-in and finally 292 cu-in.

A LOT of the parts (the heads in particular) are interchangeable from engine to engine.

There's some things that are unique to theMercruiser like the engine mount points that are unique to marine engines. A LOT of the truck engines you'll find in the wrecking yards WILL have those mount points on the blocks......Some will not.

The marine manifold IS unique to Mercruiser, OMC, etc....

There are truck heads that WILL not work in a marine application.

If you decide to use a truck engine that has the wrong head, you can use your current one and just have it redone.

There's other stuff to consider. Start looking now and you can probably have the engine all ready to go by summer!


To be sure, you should probably pressure check your current engine to see if it actually DOES have a cracked block.

Then go from there....
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,525
Re: Water in Oil

I don't want to spend hours and dollars trying to find the problem if its actually leaking water in. I just want to cut my losses and look for a motor to rebuild.

Ayuh,...A few hours spent Diagnosing the i$$ue, $ave$ Thou$and$ in Unnece$$ary part$, 'n repair$....

Get 'er Runnin', 'n see what you've got..... ;)
 

Bluestream

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 28, 2010
Messages
296
Re: Water in Oil

If the temp went to 27 overnight I doubt it would freeze the the block solid. That engine is a huge mass of metal and takes a while to cool down to the point of freezing. That would take a few days. When I was a kid my neighbour had an old Dodge with a 318 and water for coolant. Several days in Nov the night weather went below freezing and his block never froze. I warned him he was living dangerously. On day in early Dec weather down real cold and that was it, the block cracked and the motor was toast...
 

Alpheus

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 3, 2009
Messages
1,757
Re: Water in Oil

I just want to say thanks! Especially do Don S. I have learned a lot from reading your posts.

I dont understand. You did all this reading and research and did not learn anything. What post did Don S. say not to drain your block in freezing temps and to trust the fate of your engine to a 25 cent light bulb?

Its all over this forum right now. Arguments over to use antifreeze or not but what everyone has in common right now is that they realize that its cold outside and its time to WINTERIZE...
 

askyles

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
8
Re: Water in Oil

I dont understand. You did all this reading and research and did not learn anything. What post did Don S. say not to drain your block in freezing temps and to trust the fate of your engine to a 25 cent light bulb?

Its all over this forum right now. Arguments over to use antifreeze or not but what everyone has in common right now is that they realize that its cold outside and its time to WINTERIZE...

The comment that I did not learn anything was inappropriate and just not needed. Nor does it help me in any way to solve my issue. I really do not feel the need to explain myself to you. But I will say this. Every time I have had an issue. I can count on the expertize of Don. S. Also, after having my issue I read his post on winterizing which lead me in the right direction to prevent this from happening in the future. I do not appreciate your comments. There is no reason to attack me and I don't care to read anything more you have to say. Unless you are trying to help me with the issue at hand, which you clearly are not.
 

300sflyer

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
610
Re: Water in Oil

The comment that I did not learn anything was inappropriate and just not needed. Nor does it help me in any way to solve my issue. I really do not feel the need to explain myself to you. But I will say this. Every time I have had an issue. I can count on the expertize of Don. S. Also, after having my issue I read his post on winterizing which lead me in the right direction to prevent this from happening in the future. I do not appreciate your comments. There is no reason to attack me and I don't care to read anything more you have to say. Unless you are trying to help me with the issue at hand, which you clearly are not.



I don't think anyone jumped on you too hard here... I too was thinking in a similar way, only chose not to say anything. You made a number of serious errors, all of which were avoidable by doing more research, and by keeping a closer watch on the weather in your area. These mistakes may or may not cost you some serious $$$$ to rectify. Having said that, you are not the first to do so, and most certainly won't be the last. ;)

Keep us posted!
 

askyles

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
8
Re: Water in Oil

Update. Earlier this week I drained all the water from my system. It was easier than I thought. Except I could not at all find the drain plug that is on the output of the exhaust manifold (I don't know what it is called). I opened the petcock and pulled the exhaust manifold plug per my manual. A lot of water came out. Today I am finishing it up, changing the oil and putting antifreeze in my system. After I do a test run and see if water is entering my oil.

I had just changed my watery oil and I had not attempted to start the motor yet. I went to pull all spark plugs and clean them off because I noticed the two I pulled were fouled and smelled like gas. When I got to the last spark plug I noticed it was very oily. Not milky oil. It appeared to be the clean oil that had just been put in to the motor. What can this be from? Also, I saw hints of the old milky oil on it. The oil had not been in the motor for more than 5 minutes at this point in time. Any help would be appreciated.
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Re: Water in Oil

When I got to the last spark plug I noticed it was very oily. Not milky oil. It appeared to be the clean oil that had just been put in to the motor. What can this be from? Also, I saw hints of the old milky oil on it. The oil had not been in the motor for more than 5 minutes at this point in time. Any help would be appreciated.

Might be a cracked head.


You should pressure check the cooling system before you do anything else.

If the cooling system will not hold pressure, you're wasting your time trying anything else....
 

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
Re: Water in Oil

...putting antifreeze in my system.....

Why?:confused: If you do, use RV antifreeze, not automotive antifreeze, otherwise when you start in the spring you will be dumping highly toxic antifreeze either into the water or onto your lawn, illegal and unwise.
 

askyles

Cadet
Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
8
Re: Water in Oil

Update... I just want to update you all on my situation since you took the time out to comment on my thread.

I changed my oil and I attempted to start my motor. Which I failed, determined I had a faulty fuel pump and when I took it apart it was full of gel?? I blew it out with my air compressor and was still a no go. Replaced with a marine electric pump with a oil pressure switch as well. Started immediately and sounded like she was ready for the races. Love the Chevy 165..

After running her for a while, meaning a couple times I let her run for 30-45 minutes continuous, with water pressure to the engine through an insert of a garden hose and I had no signs of any water in the oil. I continued this for several days to make sure... There are no signs of external cracks as well. I believed I dodged a bullet here. I cant believe its so easy to winterize a IL6, it literally takes 30 seconds, remove the manifold bolt and loosen the petcock. Will never happen again! I also later determined that the water may have come through the vent hole that a tube runs to the carburetor and drained directly to the oil pan, it was very loose fitting and water all over it. I still cant believe I left my engine cover off.... Anyway

Now I am off to replace the Leakey oil pan and bellows. I will have her in the water before long.

Thanks for all the replies.
 
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