Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

I pulled an old motor out of my grandfathers shed and I know very little about it.

Its a Wards SeaKing 7.5HP model-K7514106A and I can't get it to start. Its turning over and there is gas getting to the engine but it won't fire.

He said that it was running fine then he turned it off to use the trolling motor and fish some but when he went to fire it back up it just sputtered at him. Last time it was used was about 7 months ago.

Anyone have any trouble shooting ideas? I cleaned the spark plug up on a wire wheel and it looks good but its like its not getting a spark. I have looked all over for a repair manual but I've had no luck. Not much of a mechanic so any help would be great!

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

engine is a clinton I believe from the angle of the spark plug, Clean and re gap the points, .20

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

BlytheBass said:

I pulled an old motor out of my grandfathers shed and I know very little about it.

Its a Wards SeaKing 7.5HP model-K7514106A and I can't get it to start. Its turning over and there is gas getting to the engine but it won't fire.

He said that it was running fine then he turned it off to use the trolling motor and fish some but when he went to fire it back up it just sputtered at him. Last time it was used was about 7 months ago.

Anyone have any trouble shooting ideas? I cleaned the spark plug up on a wire wheel and it looks good but its like its not getting a spark. I have looked all over for a repair manual but I've had no luck. Not much of a mechanic so any help would be great!

Click to expand...

The Clinton model K 751 (and clones branded for other retailers) was built from 1976 thru 1980. It is a 8.59 CID single that uses a Champion J13y (or current equivalent) gapped at .025". Fuel/oil mix recommended was 48/1 using an outboard rated oil. (current spec is TC-W3) Frankly since the cylinder & piston are air-cooled I would use no less than a 32/1 mix but I'm very conservative about lubrication requirements.

Some K751s had an electronic ignition system according to my Intertec manual but the junker I have has a standard magneto so "your mileage may vary". If it's a standard mag the point gap is .020".

The lower crankshaft bearing and seal, exhaust housing and leg are water-cooled by a pump atop the anti-cavitation plate on the lower unit and it MUST be functional to keep bearing, seal and crankshaft alive over the long haul. If you run it out of water because it is an 'air-cooled motor' you WILL ruin the water-pump impeller if it's still functional.

There's a post @ Clintons further down the page that has information on where to get parts.

See the 'Top Secret File' at <http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680> on reviving dead outboards. It's a treasure-house of data for the 'outboard challenged.

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

Thanks for all the info, I've actually got some headway on it today. I've got it to fire a bit and it is doing better. I think its the carb now because it seems like its not getting any gas. I took the, what i believe to be, fuel pump off and behind the pipe that screws into the carb there was a bunch of junk so I cleaned it out. I also cleaned the bowl out from under the carb and I sprayed it out really good but it still doesn't want to fire. Since its water cooled below would it be ok if I run it for maybe a minute if I get it to fire or should I just try to fire it in water? I used a 2 cycle mixture and it said 3.2oz for a galon of gas and the front of the engine said to use 3oz of SAE 30 for a galon of gas. Its a headache but I feel like I'm making headway.

The only thing that concerned me today was that when I cranked it over a puff of white smoke came from the carb...don't know what caused it but I unhooked the gas line and backed away for a bit, any ideas on what that could have been?

Thanks again for any and all help, I appreciate any little bit at all.

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

<I've got it to fire a bit and it is doing better.>

First----be sure that the ignition system is grounded either thru the spark plug or to a direct ground any time you pull it over! Otherwise you can damage or totally ruin it. If it's a magneto system then cranking it if ungrounded can cause the coil to short out internally. If it's an electronic ignition system some forms can be electronically destroyed and some of them are NLA. Have you yet even determined what form of ignition system you have? If you haven't then you're "flying blind". For a properly functioning ignition you need at least a 1/4" of hot blue/white spark at cranking speed.

<I think its the carb now because it seems like its not getting any gas. I took the, what i believe to be, fuel pump off and behind the pipe that screws into the carb there was a bunch of junk so I cleaned it out. I also cleaned the bowl out from under the carb and I sprayed it out really good but it still doesn't want to fire.>

There's far more to a "fuel system" than just the components you mentioned. It extends from the vent hole in the gascap all the way thru the reed block between the intake manifold and the crankcase. ALL of it must be scrupulously clean to function as intended!

Three things must occur in the proper sequence for an IC engine to run:

1. the proper fuel/air mix must get into the cylinder.

2. sufficient spark must occur at the proper time

3. there must be sufficient compression to facilitate ignition

If any of those 3 items are 'off' then combustion will not occur.

<Since its water cooled below would it be ok if I run it for maybe a minute if I get it to fire or should I just try to fire it in water?>

Never fire it up unless the lower unit is submerged in water up to a few inches above the anti-cavitation plate! It takes only a few seconds to destroy the thin rubber vanes on a waterpump impeller on ANY outboard.

<I used a 2 cycle mixture and it said 3.2oz for a galon of gas and the front of the engine said to use 3oz of SAE 30 for a galon of gas.>

Very close to the same.

<The only thing that concerned me today was that when I cranked it over a puff of white smoke came from the carb...don't know what caused it but I unhooked the gas line and backed away for a bit, any ideas on what that could have been?>

Could be a backfire thru the carb caused by a too lean fuel/air mix. Could be other things but I'd bet 1st on carb jets that are semi-clogged by that 'Spawn of Satan"----gasahol. I think you'll profit by a complete disassembly of the carb and a THOROUGH cleaning of ALL jets and passages.

While the carb is soaking in the carb cleaner either make a simple spark gap device or pick up a cheap one at the local auto parts counter and find out if you have good ignition.

Go back to the "Top Secret File" and review it. Check everything it recommends carefully and methodically. If there's something you fail to understand completely ASK before proceeding! Ignorance results in as much or more damage than neglected maintenance!

EDIT:

A review of the following two pages would prove profitable.

<http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/01/articles/oldoutboards/index.htm>

<http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086>

You may even want to review my writing on this website concerning the care, feeding and resuscitation of air-cooled outboards. I have written extensively on the subject as has 'mrcrabs'. Try a search under our names for our past posts.

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

There's a clinton guy listed on repair shops at brixnet for parts,

Webbs Farm Supplie (Parts for Clinton Outboard)
5381 Old San Jose Rd
Soquel CA 95073
831-475-1020 04/16/05
E-mail webbsfarmsupplie@yahoo.com ?
www.webbsfarmsupplies.com ?


I'm almost sure he has a points type ignition, plug wire appears to go up and under the flywheel...I have never heard of or seen a solid state clinton, but theres always the first,

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

mrcrabs said:

I'm almost sure he has a points type ignition, plug wire appears to go up and under the flywheel...I have never heard of or seen a solid state clinton, but theres always the first,

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Same here!

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

Thanks alot for everything!

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

Well, I think I figured it out. When I took the carb off the last time I had no idea there were fuel parts behind it so thanks for mentioning the reeds behind the carb. I took it off and one of the metal flaps were missing. I looked everywhere behind the piston and I couldn't see it. Please don't laugh at my ignorance...but could it have maybe been passed through the exhaust? I can't seem to find it any where in there. Going to keep looking for that missing flap then I'm going to find someone who may have a set. Thanks again for all the help, without the forum I would have been scratching my head still!

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

outcha...are they plastic reed or metal...look like plastic, if metal...you could have bad problems if there synthetic fiber she chewed it and spit it out most likely with no harm done.

you may have to make your own new reeds are always fun, I have seen them made from old credit cards

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

BlytheBass said:

Well, I think I figured it out. When I took the carb off the last time I had no idea there were fuel parts behind it so thanks for mentioning the reeds behind the carb. I took it off and one of the metal flaps were missing. I looked everywhere behind the piston and I couldn't see it. Please don't laugh at my ignorance...but could it have maybe been passed through the exhaust? I can't seem to find it any where in there. Going to keep looking for that missing flap then I'm going to find someone who may have a set. Thanks again for all the help, without the forum I would have been scratching my head still!

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Ouch indeed! While not impossible that it could have passed thru the engine and out the exhaust without damage I find it doubtful. Time for a compression test to determine the extent of damage. If it broke rings or gouged the cylinder walls it should show up as reduced compression. While I don't KNOW the compression specs on that engine I would expect it to need 65 PSI or greater to crank and idle well.

Re: making reeds.
While it has been & can be done it's hardly the optimal solution. Normally a leaf from a feeler gauge of a thickness that matches the original is the chosen material. But don't attempt it until you have exhausted efforts to obtain the original. Down the board at <http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=195753> is contact info for Clinton parts. It is said that more than one call may be necessary to get someone on line but they are the remains of the original manufacturer so are the best source for parts. Should that prove fruitless my next choice would be the 'Webvertise' free advertising website of the Antique Outboard Club at
<http://www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=Webvertize>

But get a compression reading first before expending the effort to find parts----if it's trashed you may need to try the Webvertise board to find a complete powerhead assembly.

After you've done the compression check send me a PM. I might have what you need.

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

I would make the reeds, a buddy of mine down the road is into racing 2 cycle ouboards, his labor of love a built 140 J/E looper...I'm going with him AM for a break in run...not riding in the boat!, http://www.madmanengineering.com/ he's crazy so I stay away mostly... I was just chatting on the phone asking if he had any old fiber reeds laying around, he said any motor cycle shop would have what you need...just have to square the reed block and chamfer the edges and make sure you duplicate the original size. but then again you really need to bone up an reed making...lots of bike and scooters run on homemade fiber reeds
your reeds don't look metal from the pic

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

check this out, better get it while its hot. brand new clinton reed block, I can''t believe it!


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INTA...at_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item41486e59bd

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

Wow, thanks for that link, i got it right when it opened! I already kinda rigged it to work but since I ordered that new part I may just seal it up till it comes in.

I don't plan on useing this, but if it ever happenes in the future coule I? I cut up a beer can and made it the shape of the flaps and it looks like it would close up good.

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

cool but I doubt the aluminum would have any spring in it to handle the job,,,but great thinking, I would have opted for something like Tom suggested...feeler gage, but I know you can use a discarded fiber reed from a motor cycle or such, many of my old buddies ran there 2 cycle 3 wheelers with the cheap phoney credit cards that come in the mail with offers.

Really a lucky find on that clinton reed box eh?...they just don't fall out of the sky like that very often but I know how to search ebay like nobodys business, and I love the hunt. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress, we live for it around here

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

BlytheBass said:

I don't plan on useing this, but if it ever happenes in the future coule I? I cut up a beer can and made it the shape of the flaps and it looks like it would close up good.

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NO! A reed flexes twice on every revolution of the engine. At 4,000 RPM how long do YOU think it would last?

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

So anxious to get that in! Got everything cleaned and I got the gasgets all cut out and ready to go. Can't wait to here it fire up.

Re: Wards K7514106a 7.5hp

EVERYONE!!! Thank you for all the help! It ran and it ran good. Wasn't exactly a jet boat but it pushed good and it was a steady good pace. I don't know if I have the adjustments all correct or not but it still ran good.

It acted like it wanted to push harder but I don't know if its just not adjusted correctly. There is a lean/rich dial and also a screw on the bowl of the carb bowl. I don't know how to figure out the lean/rich but its not smoking so I left that alone and I looked up the screw on the bottom and I guess it adjusts how much gas comes into the carb.

If anyone could help with those last two things it would be great! If not I really appreciate everything up to this point and I couldn't be happier with the motor!