Tiltworm shaft

I need to replace the tilt worm shaft (the slotted, or forked end has sheared off) on my 1978 OMC Stern drive (outdrive model #981110, engine model #990245D). I have removed the tilt motor (that is how I discovered that the teeth of the wormdrive shaft were sheared off) with the intention of replacing the hammer-blow couplings and spring only to discover that they are still in good shape. I then removed the triangular retainer plate at the other end of the tilt worm shaft (just above the tilt clutch housing) in an attempt to remove the worm gear shaft. That left me at a stand-still as I cannot figure out how to remove the retainer and bushing. Am I on the right track on how to remove tilt worm shaft? If so, how do I remove the retainer?

Also, when I removed the tilt motor I had the pleasure of the assembly coming apart. After more than an hour and many, many attempts to slip the brushes back into the spring loaded slot they reside in, I re-assembled the tilt motor, and then I connected the wiring to make sure the tilt motor still worked and only got a clicking sound, not the whirling sound it had before I removed it. Does this tell me I need to take it back apart and attempt to put the brushes back in the slots (again) or if I reconnect it to the tilt worm shaft will it work properly. If I need to re-do the tilt motor assembly again, is there a trick to getting it back together? Or does anyone have any tips on how to do this in a more timely manner?

Thank you in advance for any advice or help....

Re: Tiltworm shaft

Tomointx said:

I cannot figure out how to remove the retainer and bushing. Am I on the right track on how to remove tilt worm shaft? If so, how do I remove the retainer?

Click to expand...

just hit the big brass gear with a soft drift or some wood (green) at about the 10 oclock position - the retainer (red circle) will pop out the back if the triangle plate is off.

Re: Tiltworm shaft

Yes you are on the right track. If drive is still on and tilt clutch is assembled, simply pull up on the lower and it will pop right out. And no, there is no easy way to handle the tilt motor, its never fun.

Re: Tiltworm shaft

Pay attention to the little plastic washers in there too. There are absolutely functional and needed for proper operation. The worm gear is pinned on the shaft so it may not be stripped just a broken pin.

Re: Tiltworm shaft

Thanks, all! I'll give it a shot.

Re: Tiltworm shaft

Good news; I was able to replace my broken worm drive gear shaft!
And even better news; I was able to properly reassemble the tilt motor.
Now on to the next question(s):
before remounting the tilt motor, I plugged the electrical in and had my son hit the switch. Nothing but a click. I followed the wires (cables) and found no fuses. I also tested the terminal and it has power. Does the tilt motor need to be bolted in place for some reason like grounding? Or should it be able to turn over without it being attached? Before I originally removed the tilt motor it was operating (I could hear it spinning, and when I removed it that is when I discovered the broken worm gear shaft).
The last thing I checked was the four solenoids mounted on a bracket on the motor. Using my voltmeter and with the battery turned on, I found voltage on the two lower solenoids (I believe them to be the trim solenoids) but no voltage on the two upper solenoids (which I believe to be the tilt solenoids). I see I can purchase a Fuse & Lead Assembly ($45.00) and/or the solenoids ($14.00 each). Can I get away with just replacing the solenoids without replacing the fuse & lead assembly?
Thanks in advance for any help or wisdom that could be shared. I've had this boat for 2+ months without putting it in the water, and I'm just dying to get on the lake before it gets colder here in Fort Worth!

Re: Tiltworm shaft

yes, the motor chassis needs to be grounded. The green wire is 12V+ for down, the blue is 12V+ Up for up - the chassis is the ground path.

there is a barrel shaped fuse holder - with a 50A fuse inside -and they like to rust up and cause problems. cleaning them up with steel wool, or putting a new fuse usually helps (car stereo shop has them). This is done once all the wire terminal connections at the relays have been filed shiny on both sides of the ring terminals, and file the terminal side of the nut too...

you can see the fuse here if you follow the red wire from the solenoids to the starter (it's a 1973 diagram, but your tilt circuit is similar if not identical)
http://hhscott.com/evinrude/images/wiring/73_OMC_V8_all_big.jpg