99 ficht 200, check engine light, power loss, stuck linkage.

BluefishBoy

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
21
OK, first of all several months ago, check engine light came on. I posted all symptoms on here (no powerloss, just a constant alarm sounding). replaced the water seperating filters and the spark plugs and all ran fine for a few trips.

NEW PROBLEM

I was out on the LIS recently in 4-6 footers. Nothing too hard but it was rough and several times waves came over the bow.
About 5 miles into a 15 mile jog my check engine light came on while at about 4200 rpm, Major power loss and sputtering. Boat seemed to buck and jump if i tried to accelerate, but ran fine at idle speed both in and out of gear, reverse too.
was able to idle back towards shore (not an easy endeavor in 4-6 foot seas). let the engine sit for a few while we fished and it fired right back up. Was able to get back up on plane for about 1/2 mile and then same symptom.
Decided it would be better to head in so at idle speed headed back in to the marina. When I approached the beginnings of the no wake zone i tried to throttle back only to realize that i was either in gear or out, no throttle control even tho the linkage was tight. Same results in reverse.
Through the stares and swears of all the people yelling at me and screaming NO WAKE at me I managed to get into the boat ramp and trailer the boat.

Linkage is tight, Plenty of fluid, Starts on command, runs great out of the water, new plugs and filters (Gapped and indexed)
Stuck throttle
bucking engine
powerloss at alarm sounding

Any ideas?
 

boobie

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
20,826
Re: 99 ficht 200, check engine light, power loss, stuck linkage.

Check your fuel system for water again. Remember, we now have the wonderful new "fuel" to deal with. You were in big waves so maybe something got shook up.
 

seahorse5

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jan 24, 2002
Messages
4,698
Re: 99 ficht 200, check engine light, power loss, stuck linkage.

A plugged up or restricted water cooling line for the engine computer can cause it to get hot internally and that turns on the Check Engine lite and slows the motor to about 2500 rpm until it cools down enough and the key switch cycled again.

A laptop and the diagnostic software is needed to show which error code(s) are in memory to show where the problem lies.
 

Haffiman

Commander
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: 99 ficht 200, check engine light, power loss, stuck linkage.

First of all get the codes read out.
If your previous problem was water in the filter and all you did was to change filter, only 1/4 of the job done!
Did you open the tank and inspect for more water?
If water in filter, most likely a gallon or more still in the tank.
Going out in rough seas that probably got sucked into the pick-up tube and into filter again.
Stuck 'linkage'.
Dis you disconnect the cables at the engine and check for engine linkage moving freely? Might as well be a remote/cable problem.
You may be lucky that the alarm system and SLOW works as intended in order to get you home safely.
The new E-techs have, as far as I know, a 'get me home' system that keeps the engine running constantly at 2000RPM if a major system failure, but not the Fichts.
 

seahorse5

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jan 24, 2002
Messages
4,698
Re: 99 ficht 200, check engine light, power loss, stuck linkage.

The new E-techs have, as far as I know, a 'get me home' system that keeps the engine running constantly at 2000RPM if a major system failure, but not the Fichts.


In case of a serious problem such as overheating or electrical malfunctions, the E-TEC motors have a SAFE mode. It limits the rpms to about 1200 and the motor runs normally from idle on up to that limit until the problem disappears.

FICHT motors have a SLOW mode which limits rpm to about 2500 and run normally below that.
 

Haffiman

Commander
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
2,454
Re: 99 ficht 200, check engine light, power loss, stuck linkage.

In case of a serious problem such as overheating or electrical malfunctions, the E-TEC motors have a SAFE mode. It limits the rpms to about 1200 and the motor runs normally from idle on up to that limit until the problem disappears.

FICHT motors have a SLOW mode which limits rpm to about 2500 and run normally below that.

The E-techs came on the market just a couple of years before I 'quit', just managed to get 'certified'.
If not mistaken the have another 'safe' mode than the normal SLOW, and that is in case of an EMM failure. Engine runs at a constant RPM, impossible to adjust.
 

seahorse5

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jan 24, 2002
Messages
4,698
Re: 99 ficht 200, check engine light, power loss, stuck linkage.

If not mistaken the have another 'safe' mode than the normal SLOW, and that is in case of an EMM failure. Engine runs at a constant RPM, impossible to adjust.

E-TECs do have 2 other "safe" modes that can occur but there is no "fixed rpm" setting.

If the motor or EMM is severely overheated and continues to get hotter, the Check Engine light starts to flash to signal an impending shutdown if the temp keeps climbing. When that point is reached, the motor stops and will not start until the temp falls to a predetermined limit.

The other safe mode is in case of engine runaway from an internal fuel leak or something. If the motor revs up too high and the throttle position sensor shows closed throttle plates, a code 57 is set and the motor stops and the engine light flashes. It will not start at all until hooked up to the laptop and the diagnostic software resets the EMM. It is a safety feature. Ever hear a Detroit Diesel runaway? It's not pretty.
 

BluefishBoy

Cadet
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
21
Re: 99 ficht 200, check engine light, power loss, stuck linkage.

Hey guys, Thanks for the replies.... Here's the scoop..

There was a little more water in the tank, but should not have been enough to make a difference, just a few tbsp's.
With the linkage issue.. worked the linkage free and the gears would no longer engage. drained the lower unit......metal filing everywhere, and not just a few...lots. Pulled the plate off and gears were stripped round.

Long story short, I am very glad that..
A. it was stuck in the "forward" gear so I could go home.
B, the seas were rough enough that when I headed back into the boat ramp without being able to slow or stop, there was no weekend warrior tying up a party barge to a trailer on a minivan that I would have had to ram having no ability to stop.
and of course C. new lower units for Fichts are cheap ($600) and easy to replace on ones own.

ran like a dream till I traded it in!
 

v20 outrage

Cadet
Joined
Nov 25, 2010
Messages
19
Re: 99 ficht 200, check engine light, power loss, stuck linkage.

Going through the very same thing with my year 2000 - 200 hp FICHT.
Seahorse-5 is 100% right.
The water passage through my emm & vapor seperator were completely clogged with salt or silt allowing my emm to over heat.
I cleaned out both passages & blew them clean with a wire & air hose but was to late, as my emm is fried & is right now sitting in DFI Technologies work shop to be rebuilt.
This is the second time I'm going through this & I really believe it's my own fault because [ now let this sink in ] I noticed my water pressure gauge pressure had dropped about 5 lbs from normal but my water temp was still at 138 degrees at cruise.
I hadn't changed my water pump for about 4 years & fully intended to do so in the very near future, "BUT" [ my thoughts ] by not changing the pump, there wasen't enough water pressure to blow those water passages through the emm & vapor seperator clean, thus allowing salt or silt buildup in them & over heating.
Yes, I flush the engine through muffs, but probably better off going through the tell tail with the engine off.
Seahorse 5, what's your thoughts on which end to flush?
If you don't have access to the software or lap top or palm pilot, better have a quaified tech hook one up & give you the bad news.
Do "NOT" expect any good news, cause it's gonna cost you at least $1,000 for the emm removal rebuild & replacemennt & it's most likely time to have your fuel injectors rebuilt by DFI Technologies at the tune of around $250 "EACH" for all 6 of them, but it beats the $600 "EACH for all 6 of em.
Not trying to scare you, just trying to prepare you for reality.
Sal
 
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