Re: Thanks Rodbolt
F100 FS jet is the wrong manual.
get the corrct one.
ok, ya park it in the lot and go make out the work order, depending on how many teeth get pulled that will take 10-30 minutes.
some customers have harder teeth than others.
then I pick up the boat, trailer it into the shop. dissconect, hunt for the keys, find the dead battery, replace the broken fuel connector and on and on.
but Ill start from hood off,remove the belt cover, rotate the flywheel until the cam arrows are aligned AND the plate under the belt drive gear under the flywheel is aligned with the casting tab on the block.
then I use my sproket/rotor holding tool and loosen both sproket bolts,then loosen the tensioner and remove the spring, then remove the belt from the sprokets and the sprokets.
then I reccomend removing the fuel pump and filter and laying them aside but thats just me.
remove the cam cover.
reinstall the sprockets,belt and tensioner.
remove the spark plugs.
now is wher I differ from the book as it keeps down confusion what with phone calls and such.
rotate the engine so that the #1 intake cam lobes clear the wear pad and the TDC mark lines up on the flywheel to timing tab. #1 is now in the TDC compression stroke.
check lash on both intake lobes and both ex lobes. if its in spec on to the next.next is #3 rotate the flywheel 180* bringing up the single TDC mark, check #3 in and EX, then rotate the flywheel another 180* bring the TDC mark that has a scale range on it back to TDC, now #4 is TDC compression stroke,check #4.
then another 180 bringing the single TDC mark up and do #2.
if all are in spec rotate the flywheel another 180 and bring up the TDC mark, carefully look under the flywheel and line up the hole in the plate below the belt drive gear with the tab on the block. may be a triangle stamp on the plate on some models.
now remove the tensioner,remove the sprockets, clean the cover gasket and inspect carefully. if not nicked or damaged its reusable.
install the cover,install the sprokets,install the tensioner lightly move the flywheel enough to take up the slack on the port side of the belt, with tensioner spring installed now tighten the tensioner bolt to about 43t pounds, hold the sprockets and torque to about 45 ftlbs.
fee for checking about an hour.
fee if I have to change a shim, about another hour.
to alter valve lash
after recording lash measurements on any and all out of spec shims.
bring it back to TDC,plate under drive sprocked lined up,cam sprocket arrows lined up.
remove sprockets, remove cams.
clean shim surfaces with carb cleaner.
mark each pad as to where it goes,intake 1-8 and ex 1-8 or however you can track them.
now use a small pick or compressed air to remove the shim from the bucket.
measure the shim thickness. buy a thicker or thinner shim as required.
say your target was .008 and your actuall was .006.
means you need a shim .002 thinner.
reassemble the cams with the new shims, reassemble the sprokets and tensioners,recheck lash reasemble all the stuff and go play.
they do make a tool to depress the valve so they say you can change shims without removing the cams.
its a two man cluster to use and still doesnt work right.
me and the book differ slightly on cam removal and installion for the caps.
books gona talk about loaded and unloaded.
best is to loosen each cap bolt 1/4 turn then do the next the next the next.
never move one more than 1/4 without doing the other 9 on the cam.
cams are hollow and spring pressure on a lobe can and will break them if not done exactly as the manual or my description.
watched an instructer snap a cam with the book.
that help any ?
