Need Trailer Advice

I'm a total newbie to boating....Never had one. A family member is giving me a 19' 6" inboard/outboard (2900 lb dry), but it doesn't have a trailer. I want to buy a good, safe, legal, long-lasting suitable trailer and really have no experience with the various options. I started off searching for trailers to buy and now I'm a bit lost in C-channels vs tube; aluminum vs. galv vs. painted, single vs. dual axle, etc. I'd really appreciate some recommendations / pointers to a good set of configurations from a reputable manufacturer...oh...and without completely breaking the bank.

Re: Need Trailer Advice

Tim25 said:

I'm a total newbie to boating....Never had one. A family member is giving me a 19' 6" inboard/outboard (2900 lb dry), but it doesn't have a trailer. I want to buy a good, safe, legal, long-lasting suitable trailer and really have no experience with the various options. I started off searching for trailers to buy and now I'm a bit lost in C-channels vs tube; aluminum vs. galv vs. painted, single vs. dual axle, etc. I'd really appreciate some recommendations / pointers to a good set of configurations from a reputable manufacturer...oh...and without completely breaking the bank.

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Most single axles trailers have 3000 lb axles under them, so a single will be at its upper limit to haul a 2900 lb boat. Add gear and gas and your over.
A 3500 lb single axle or a tandem axle will do a better job. Down side is twice as much to take care of.
Box tube are the best ones, C channels are flimsy.
Alum in cool but expensive and only needed to save weight. If you in salt water a galvanized is your best bet, fresh water, painted is fine.
Then your down to roller or bunk. There is no clear winner here. Each have their pros and cons. Bunks are easier to set up for your boat correctly but a roller is easier in shallow water. Both work well and I think its a matter of what you like.

Re: Need Trailer Advice

I vote tandem axle box frame roller with disc brakes. Maybe a bit too much in some people's eyes, but I'll defend here. The box frame is definitely stiffer, won't send as much unwanted bounce back to the tow vehicle, lasts twice as long as long as you keep it's drain holes clear and flushed. Disc brakes are fewer moving parts, much more effective, and rollers tend to need less maintenance with easier launch and retrieve. Yep I'm talking more bucks, but then I look at it from two sides: Safer trailer and protecting my investment. Just my 02.

Re: Need Trailer Advice

I disagree that c-channels are "flimsy". It all depends on how they are built. I actually prefer C-channel or I-beam for steel trailers because on a box tube trailer you have a very hard time seeing rust that will eventually form on the inside of the tube. On a c-channel or I-beam, the entire surface of the steel is visible and accessible to take care of rusting. My current boat has a tube trailer and I wish it had a c-channel or I beam construction. My previous boats have all had c-channel trailers and I never had any problem with them.

Re: Need Trailer Advice

Most trailers are C-channel, box IS a luxury and yes, harder to keep rust free. Given the OP's boat weight it's not a dealbreaker one way or the other, but the box is stronger.

Re: Need Trailer Advice

IMO, the only way to keep a box trailer from rusting inside is to completely seal it by welding caps on the ends. It also means that no drilled attachments can be done.

From an engineering standpoint a c-channel or I-beam trailer can be every bit as strong as a box trailer but I concede that it will take some extra weight. For a boat the size in question I would take the extra weight to insure that I could inspect for rust. If you don't believe it can happen, look at the link below. From the pictures, the trailer looked good and yet it still rusted through.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=367302

Re: Need Trailer Advice

I'm in 109jb's camp. I've had nothing but trouble with box frame trailers. It's easy to say- keep the drain holes open- much harder to do in practice. And if you use it in salt water, it'll start rusting from the inside out from the first use. If you go with aluminum you've got less corrosion problem, but the frame members have to be larger- aluminum is only 1/3 as stiff as steel. And they cost a ton of money and repairs will require a tig welder. There is no engineering reason a c-channel frame can't be as stiff as a box frame- yes it'll be a little heavier, but the ease of maintenance makes them much preferred in my book. You don't say where you are- ie, fresh water or salt, but you don't really need galvanized unless you're in salt water a lot.

For a 2900 lb boat, unless you have a good truck (preferable 3/4 ton) set up to haul it, I'd go with a tandem axle trailer.

Re: Need Trailer Advice

I too would prefer a channel or I-beam trailer, galvanized steel. And welded together versus bolted.
But mill c-channel, not the formed c-channel made from bending up sheet metal.
Then tandem, torsion suspension axles with the replaceable spindles.
Plus Kodiak disc brakes on at least the rear axle.
With a surge brake unit using a BullDog type cast steel clamshell coupler.

If money was not an issue then change to electric over hydraulic disc brakes.

Re: Need Trailer Advice

I didn't see anyone mention brakes. Any trailer over 3000 lbs will need to have them. And if you really like a single axle trailer, well that's ok with a substantial tow vehicle like one of the newer half tons from maybe 2005 up, or the 2500's on up for all years. If you tow right at the tow vehicle's limit it's a lot more dicey. There are 15" tires with 1825 lb capacity so you can do a single axle if you wish. On the other hand the extra 2 wheels will help stability at speed and will help getting the trailer up a ramp with a boat on there.

What do you drive? And would it handle 3400 lbs behind there? If not you might just get a boat savvy helper at the outset.

Re: Need Trailer Advice

Thanks for all the quick responses. I will be pulling it with a Dodge Ram 1500.