Idle stabilizer

ljohns5582 · Aug 3, 2010

My 1980-81 i6 115 hp Ser#5922281 will not start. Checked and found red wire open at switch box-traced back to idle stabilizer and found it rusted and broken FLUSH at the stabilizer. I can't seem to find this part online. How do i rewire this cdi ignition (no distributer) motor to eliminate this part? Thanks Larry

j_martin · Aug 3, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

ljohns5582 said:
My 1980-81 i6 115 hp Ser#5922281 will not start. Checked and found red wire open at switch box-traced back to idle stabilizer and found it rusted and broken FLUSH at the stabilizer. I can't seem to find this part online. How do i rewire this cdi ignition (no distributer) motor to eliminate this part? Thanks Larry

Just remove it. No other wire or timing changes. It is not needed on an engine in reasonable tune. That's why you can't find a replacement.

hope it helps
John

ljohns5582 · Aug 4, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

Do i keep the red wire landing hot continuously are is it switched? Where should i put the neg? What about the tie between the two switches? Thanks Larry

arsenalpsu · Aug 4, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

don't remove the wire between the boxes, only the wires from the idle stabilizer. Everyone should remove the stabilizer b/c it can fail and cause problems at WOT and kill your motor.....that's another reason why they don't sell it anymore, an early try at computer control, it just advances the spark if idle gets too low and if it kicks in at WOT then you'll get detonation=death

Ski'nBlind · Aug 4, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

The stabilizer has a red, white, and black wire. Remove all 3 at their connections, unbolt and discard stabilizer. I found the same red wire corroded on my engine but after a closer inspection there were a total of 7 wires that were corroded/swollen and I replaced them all. The white/blk stripe wire between the switchboxes needs to be in good condition.....another one of the wires I had to re-make. Look for any wire that is swollen or has cracked insulation and replace it. After all wires are good and connections are cleaned and tightened THEN start to diagnose your no start issue.

You should at least check your max timing with a timing light after removing idle stabilizer (no need to have a running engine to test).

Let us know what you find

j_martin · Aug 4, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

The red wire goes to stator. It is not a battery wire. Short it to ground and take out the stator.

The white/blk wire is to bias. The jumper between the switchboxes is to cross feed the bias voltage and keep the timing even. Short that to ground and timing advances about 30 degrees. Do that at WOT and you'll get rod caps in the back of the head. The advance module connection to the bias circuit pulls it down just a tad to advance the idle timing if needed.

Take the advance module off. File it in the round file. Set your idle speed where you want it, (probably won't have to touch it) and go on with life.

hope it helps
John

ljohns5582 · Aug 4, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

I took the stabilizer off,leaving the two switchboxes tied together but still won't start.
When cranking, it spins fast but no starting. I think i may have took out the lower switchbox when i replaced the lu and had it in gear while trying to start and thus drawing excessive current. The lower switchbox looks like it may have gotten too hot.
The lu is in place and in nuetral. What about a nuetral switch? Is there one?
By the way it ran before i replaced lu but was flooding.
Where should i start checking for power?
Thanks to all those that have helped. Larry

Ski'nBlind · Aug 5, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

Try a spark test on all 6 cylinders. You are looking for a fat blue spark across a spare spark plug or better yet a 7/16" gap across a spark tester. Do you have spark on one, some, or none?

ljohns5582 · Aug 5, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

I just bought a spark tester today and will check them hopefully tomorrow. As of today
i can't see a spark on the second from top plug. All others are sparking. I've checked all
the electrical wires and connections and they seem to be ok for now. I've ohmed the wires out for continuity.
I've checked the plug and it is good. I will continue to isolate as much as i know how.
I'm hoping that it is just a coil. Can't i replace just one coil or do i need to replace more
than one at the time. Thanks Larry

ljohns5582 · Aug 6, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

I checked and found spark on cylinders 1,3,5 none on 2,4,6. All green wires from bottom
switchbox are dead. What should i do next? Larry

j_martin · Aug 6, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

Swap the stator wires between the pack. Blue with Blue/w, and red with red/w.

If 2,4,6 nor spark, the stator is bad.
If it stays the same, the switchbox or it's wiring is bad. (ground usually)

hope it helps
John

ljohns5582 · Aug 6, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

I changed the stator wires and got spark to the other three cylinders (2,4,6). Switched them back and got fire on (1,3,5). I will be pulling flywheel to check stator unless someone knows something else that might be wrong. Larry

j_martin · Aug 6, 2010

Re: Idle stabilizer

ljohns5582 said:
I changed the stator wires and got spark to the other three cylinders (2,4,6). Switched them back and got fire on (1,3,5). I will be pulling flywheel to check stator unless someone knows something else that might be wrong. Larry

You got that one dogged.

Idle stabilizer

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