waterpump oil seal removal

krisnowicki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Jul 11, 2007
Messages
1,172
I am trying to remove the two oil seals under the water pump on my 1989 excel 225.I got the top one out by removing drive a screwdriver threw it and prying it out. what is the trick to getting the second one out? I am scard of damageing what is underneath it.
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: waterpump oil seal removal

measure the depth of the seal before removal, thats what the manual said in that year.
I hope ya did.
easiest way is to remove the bearing carrier,remove the seals and the orings.
clean the seal bore,install both seals with the springs facing you to the pre recorded depth.
if you did not record the depth use the driver tool made for yamaha v4 and v6 gear cases.
install a new oring on the housing.
clean the housing bore and driveshaft. reassemble the housing to the case tighten the 4 bolts to the proper torque and reassemble the water pump.
 

krisnowicki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Messages
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Re: waterpump oil seal removal

to remove the carrier, I undo the four bolts and pry it up?
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 1, 2003
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Re: waterpump oil seal removal

carefully pry it up using 2 screw drivers 180 degrees apart, occassionally oxy acetylyne is used depending on corrosion.
do not break the casting that the wear plate sits on.
 

krisnowicki

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Re: waterpump oil seal removal

That thing is stuck, I am going to have to let it soak with some pb over night and use some heat in the morning
 

backyard mechanic

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 6, 2009
Messages
203
Re: waterpump oil seal removal

You may be better off buying the full WP kit. The upper and lower body is included I believe and already has the seals installed in them.

To answer your question, take the lower WP body out of the case. The 180 idea with a pair of screwdrivers is an OK idea to get it out but DO BE CAREFUL of the mating surfaces. Then you can easily remove the old and install new seals or simply replace the body with a new one.

A word of caution... look over that drive shaft carefully and be sure it isn't too scarred where the seals ride. You can cheat with moving seals a smidgen but you are tempting fate not to do it right.

New shafts are spendy and having your machine shop slide a speedy sleeve on (if that is plausible/possible on your shaft) is a perfectly good option.
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
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20,066
Re: waterpump oil seal removal

its rare to see the driveshaft wear much on the yamaha, there is already a hardened sleeve for the seal surface.
the seals go in the driveshaft bearing housing and do not come with any water pump kit. using PB blaster is a waste of PB blaster.
you simply cannot get any down the case bore.
sometimes,with heat and a brass bar, you can catch the edge near a bolt hole and tap the housing and rotate it back and forth to help break it free.
some a a real work of art.
v4 and v6 yamahas dont have an upper and lower body mostly thats an inline engine thing.
 

krisnowicki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jul 11, 2007
Messages
1,172
Re: waterpump oil seal removal

I will get some heat on it, I broke my torch today of course. I will get a new one tommorrow and heat this up. I am scared of cracking it ot hurting the mating surface.

I did not measure the original seal surface, I have already got the first one out.
 

krisnowicki

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jul 11, 2007
Messages
1,172
Re: waterpump oil seal removal

When I drove the seals in springs up, The springs became damages and would leak air. I did at one point have seal to hold ten pounds of air. But, when I drove the seal down further it would not seal again. Any advice?
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: waterpump oil seal removal

only advice I have is put away the swing press.
buy the YB-06195A tool from any yamaha dealer and one side press's in the prop shaft seals the other the drive shaft seals.
use a press not a swing press.
this tool not only wont damage the seals when installing but it also seats them at the correct depth.
its also why dealers have to charge, tools cost and they wear out.
 
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