1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

Hi everybody.
Hope to get some answers here about my problem.
I have a Nitro Tracker with 1991 Johnson GT150 motor wich has no spark on any plugs. I've replaced power pack and stator and still have same problem. Tired of spending money.
Any advise would be very appreciated. Thank you very much everybody.

Re: 1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

Disconnect the large RED electrical plug at the engine.

Remove all spark plugs.

Check spark by using a small jumper from the battery positive cable at the large terminal of the solenoid to the small 3/8" nut terminal of the solenoid that energizes the solenoid. (You want spark that will jump a 7/16" gap).

If you now have the proper spark, replace the ignition switch.

Re: 1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

Or dead man switch.

Re: 1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

Oh, one more thing. When you hot wire it like Joe says, you will have to kill it with the choke as you will have no switch.

Re: 1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

If he removes the spark plugs as mentioned, he won't encounter that scenario (grin). Couldn't resist.

Re: 1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

All good comments. There is one other major ignition component you have not replaced which can fail-that is the timer base. You can test it according to instructions in the factory service manual.

Re: 1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

Hi there,
Thank you for your quick responce.
I did everything exactly the way you said. I
Disconnected the large RED electrical plug at the engine.

Removed all spark plugs. Used a jumper on solenoid and still nothing.no spark on any plugs. since I have new power pack and stator my thinking is the timing base is bad. I visually checked it and it looks fine to me. No cracks or anything. Regular wear and tear. What do you think?

One more thing. How do I check the kill circuit? I know i need to disconect the black wires from power pack, but they are solid wires. How do I disconect them?
Thank You everyone for your time.

Re: 1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

Check the stator and timer base resistance and DVA output as given below for BOTH banks:
WIRE READ TO RESISTANCE DVA (Connected) DVA (Disconnected)
Brown Brown/Yellow 900-1100 (35 amp) 150 V + 150 V + (*)
Orange Orange/Black 93-103 11-22 V 45-120 V (*)
White Purple (c) 100 V + (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Blue (c) 100 V + (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Green (c) 100 V + (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Purple (2nd connector) (c) 100 V + (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Blue (2nd connector) (c) 100 V + (a) 0.6 V + (#)
White Green (2nd connector) (c) 100 V + (a) 0.6 V + (#)
Wht Blk/Wht (2nd connector) 215-225 6-12 V (b) 6-12 V (from pack)
(*) This reading can be used to determine if a stator or pack has a problem. For instance, if you have no spark on any cylinder and the
stator?s DVA reading is out of spec ? disconnect the stator wires and recheck the DVA output. If the reading is still out of spec ? the stator
is bad. If the reading is now within spec ? the pack is bad.
(#) This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no spark on one
cylinder and the timer base?s DVA reading for that cylinder is low ? disconnect the timer base wires and recheck the DVA output. If the
reading stays low ? the timer base is bad. If the reading is now within spec ? the pack is bad.
(a) Check stator DVA first. Then if timer base DVA is 0.6 - 1.5 V, the pack is faulty. If below 0.6 V or 1.5 - 99 V, the timer base is faulty.
(b) DVA will drop below 1 V when the engine drops out of Quick-Start (engine is over 104 Degrees or 1200 RPM).
(c) Use a comparison reading as different brands of meters will give different readings. The typical range is 1M to 5M ohms. As long as
you have approximately the same ohm reading on all six tests and the correct output with the DVA meter, the timer base should be good.
Remember that temperature will affect the readings. The exception would be if one of the SCR?s inside the timer base is breaking down
while the engine is running. This can be found indexing the flywheel and checking the timing on all cylinders. If the readings are off,
reverse the meter leads and retest to see if the readings are corrected.

You may need a DVA adapter, if you don't have one:

http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usatoolwarehouse/ESI-640.html

Re: 1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

When you disconnect the large red plug, all that is left of the black with yellow stripe kill wire is the portion between the powerpack and the red engine plug. If there is a short to ground in that section, you will need to locate it.

Re: 1991 Johnson 150 no Fire

As Zeke suggests....... with the large RED plug still disconnected, find the black/yellow wire that leads from the engine's wiring harness to the powerpack, and disconnect it from the powerpack.

Now, using a ohm meter, check that wire in the wiring harness to see if it is somehow grounded. If so, that would kill the ignition.