Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

z1nonlyone

Seaman
Joined
Apr 20, 2010
Messages
58
Maybe some of you recognize my user name from earlier posts about buying a boat and finding water in our engine. For the record, its a 1997 Chaparral 1930, with a 5.7EFI and gen 2 alpha drive with 200 hours on the engine. We had some bogging problems and the engine would not tach over 4Gs. The next day I started it and heard a knocking sound. Long story short, today we pulled the engine and disasembled. We were not happy what we found. We thought we had a Connecting rod knock. We looked in the spark plug holes and found one cylinder with verticle lines. With a wire, we were able to feel the scratches! My first question is coincedently (or not) this same cylinder's spark plug was missing the center electrode! It looked like it broke off completely! It must have been sparking as the idle was great and it ran smooth even though the gap was over 1/8"!!! It was in this same cylinder that the verticle scratches were. Soooo,,, we took off the heads and could see stains and corosion spots in all the cylinders. In the bad cylinder, we could see spots on the top of the piston that were rubed off and galled to the cylinder walls! NOt good!
Then we noticed something else. The pistons had a +.030 stamp on them!!!! We were told this boat only had 200 hours on it! Well, maybe the boat did, but it seems to me that the engine had, at least, been bored 30 over, and I wonder if it was the original. I tried to attach some pics but they probably didn't come out too good. So, we pulled all the pistons and rod caps. Then we bore gauged the cylinders. All the cylinders were in dimensional specs but were out of round from .0007-.001. The bad cylinder was .002 out of round. The weird thing was that the bad/galled piston was
.03 undersize even in the areas that were not scratched/galled!! Although the piston had a +.030 stamp, it measured to be stock size and was .03 under the size of the cylinder. On the back of the cylinder heads, was a temperature stamp/sticker that said "void if removed". We are thinking that it is there for the purpose of determining if the engine had been overheated. Do stock engines have this?? It also said Pioneer, or something. Is there a reman called Pioneer? Well, we know now that the "knocking" was probably piston slap as the bearing journals looked ok, EXCEPT that they were rough. Kind of like abrasive was inbedded in the babbit. Although the engine ran ok after we discovered water in the oil, we are thinking that the rust inside the engine circulated and imbedded and caused wear. We can not figure out why one piston is .03 undersize, unless some remanufacturer put a stock size piston in a .030 oversize cylinder!! However the piston said +.03 on the face, but we micked it and it was not .03 oversize!!! All the pistons measured .01 out of round when measured at 90 degrees to the piston pin and then measureing again rotated as far as posible. Are they supposed to measure .01 out of round??? When measured 90 degrees to the wrist pin, they had the proper clearance, barely.
1. Has anyone heard of "Pioneer"
2. HOw much out of round should a piston be?
3. Any connection between the spark plug and the bad cylinder?
4. Any gut feelings if we should "rebuild" the engine or just buy a reman? The crank seemed to be ok, but we have not removed it yet. The cam seemed to look ok although we have not removed it. The whole engine has rust spots scattered thoughout.
5. Any recomendations as to a good source for reman engines? We are thinking at this point that we infact had a reman engine and some "hack" put a stock size piston in a .030 oversize bore even though the piston said it was a+.03 piston. (bad quality control)
 

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RCSConstruction

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
549
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

Pioneer is a huge engine re-manufacturer, under many different names..
Those void if removed are your clue to it not being OEM.
It's basically a Kragen/autozone/shuckers/checkers special, never had good luck with them...
Personally, I would bring it down to your local machine shop. Get everything machined and parts, sounds like you have the right tools and know how.

I have 3 season on a Rapid-O engine, had minor problems (rockers not adjusted, re-torqued the heads) runs strong.
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

I'll take a stab at #3; Is the porcelain insulator around the center electrode broken or missing? It's very hard, pieces would lodge at the edge of a piston and gouge vertical lines in the cyl wall, so yes, it could be cause/effect.
 

z1nonlyone

Seaman
Joined
Apr 20, 2010
Messages
58
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

I'll take a stab at #3; Is the porclain insulator around the center electrode broken or missing? It's very hard, pieces would lodge at the edge of a piston and gouge vertical lines in the cyl wall, so yes, it could be cause/effect.

The plugs were "platinum" plugs with a small center electrode. It was totaly missing and I recall only part of the porcelan was missing. None of the parts were rattling around in the piston area.
 

z1nonlyone

Seaman
Joined
Apr 20, 2010
Messages
58
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

Pioneer is a huge engine re-manufacturer, under many different names..
Those void if removed are your clue to it not being OEM.
It's basically a Kragen/autozone/shuckers/checkers special, never had good luck with them...
Personally, I would bring it down to your local machine shop. Get everything machined and parts, sounds like you have the right tools and know how.

I have 3 season on a Rapid-O engine, had minor problems (rockers not adjusted, re-torqued the heads) runs strong.

I forgot one of my questions,,,,the crank was only a two bolt main and not a 4 bolt main. I thought marine engines were "4 bolt"??
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

I forgot one of my questions,,,,the crank was only a two bolt main and not a 4 bolt main. I thought marine engines were "4 bolt"??
I used to thinks so too, but apparently not. They share configuration with GM pickup trucks, I'm told.
 

z1nonlyone

Seaman
Joined
Apr 20, 2010
Messages
58
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

Well, we did learn one thing that I would like to share. You CANNOT tell the condition of the oil by looking at the dipstick!! When we bought the boat, we ran it and checked the oil on the dipstick. It looked good! You must look inside the oil cap on the valve cover to see the circulating oil at the very least. Better to drain the oil.
 

TilliamWe

Banned
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
6,579
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

I forgot one of my questions,,,,the crank was only a two bolt main and not a 4 bolt main. I thought marine engines were "4 bolt"??

Nope, GM hasn't made a 4 bolt main SBC in years. Bond-o or rodbolt or one of theose guys could tell you when. No big deal, they aren't necessary in this application.
 

z1nonlyone

Seaman
Joined
Apr 20, 2010
Messages
58
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

We are wondering at this point, whether to go with a remanufactured engine or rebuild ours. Our crank seems to be good, the cam lobes look ok, we do need new pistons, bearings, gaskets, etc...

So hey,,, one more question,,,, do they make pistons larger than .030 oversize??
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

We are wondering at this point, whether to go with a remanufactured engine or rebuild ours. Our crank seems to be good, the cam lobes look ok, we do need new pistons, bearings, gaskets, etc...

So hey,,, one more question,,,, do they make pistons larger than .030 oversize??
Sure. .020, .030, .040, and .060 are common.
 

TilliamWe

Banned
Joined
Dec 21, 2004
Messages
6,579
Re: Water Damage in Engine (and other things)

Sure. .020, .030, .040, and .060 are common.

I am not a machinist and I have never rebuilt an engine, but I have always heard that more than .030 is not a good idea. Something about the hardness of the cylinder walls not going that deep?
Around here, it's pretty expensive to have machine work done, so going with a complete remanned engine would be less expensive. Mercruiser has a factory remanufacturing program and the engines come with warranties and everything. You might consider that, but they are pretty darned expensive.
 
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