1987 evinrude 225

sgtyoung

Recruit
Joined
May 20, 2010
Messages
1
I have a 87 evinrude 225. it is not charging. i have been told that the rectifer is the primary cause of this is there any other advice out there that can help. the part is going to cost me about $250 and they may not even be the fix.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 1987 evinrude 225

Hopefully you have a tachometer, and if the charging system is faulty, the tachometer isn't operating. Switch the tachometer sensor lead as follows and if it now functions normally, the rectifier is faulty.

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those water cooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35 ampere charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

NOTE: For the later models that DO NOT incorporate a wiring terminal strip, splicing into the "Yellow Wire" mentioned will be necessary.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficient way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disastrous consequences.
 

SparkieBoat

Captain
Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Messages
3,643
Re: 1987 evinrude 225

also could be stator...CDI electronics has some great troubleshooting PDF files..very helpful, their install sheets include specific test for the part..you will need a DVA adapter and a multi meter to test.
 

THE SHERIFF

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Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
1
Re: 1987 evinrude 225

I had my 87 Evinrude 225s covers and lower cowel panels painted last winter. Carefully took off the raised lettering and numbers by turning the clips gently. Only broke a few pins. Took everything to my auto body shop to see if they could paint the pieces. He sent me to his paint supplier and they put a color spectrometer on the 2 colors to determine the paint colors. They did a color coat clear coat paint job. The decals were all in good condition so they clearcoated over them. They look way better than new. I have found the OEM spray paint dulls out in a year in the sun. This is expensive $150.00 for the paint plus labor. I saved some labor by doing all the wet-sanding and masking myself. This is the 4th time I did this. The first one 4 years ago and it looks as good as new today. One other thing, 3M makes a clear glue to glue on emblems if you break off too many pins. All I need now is new sound deadner foam inside the covers. The old stuff was all rotted. When I get the covers back on I will try to post photos.
 

wilde1j

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
5,964
Re: 1987 evinrude 225

Beside bad wiring and/or terminations, non-charging can be a bad regulator/rectifier and/or stator. You need to do some troubleshooting before buying any parts. Typically, you can check the stator by measuring the AC voltage across the yellows while running at a fast idle. You should get > 30 VAC. Follow CDI instructions for checking the R/R, and use an ohm meter for checking wiring.
 
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