Re: Need some advice on adding no slip texture to the deck
Thanks for the replies. My main goal is to keep costs down, but give me a good working surface on the deck. My CFO (wife) is really focused on keeping the costs down. (if momma ain't happy, no one's happy). But at the same time we both agree it should be done right. I'll keep doing my research and see what I come up with. I'll keep ya posted.
I'm looking for a low-cost anti-slip, also. So I am experimenting with the Rustoleum Marine Topside paint.
Found it for about $12/qt at Lowe's, primer about $18/qt, and the anti-slip additive about $5/half pint (can says use at 1/2 pt can per qt of paint, mixed right into the paint).
Now then, I was interested in seeing:
- If the "Battleship Gray gloss" color is what I want
- What the shine of the gloss is like
- How the anti-slip additive texture is
- What kind of solvent resistance this paint has
So I painted onto a piece of epoxied plywood--no sanding the epoxy, no primer. All applied using foam brush. Also, ignore the bubbles, those are in the epoxy because this piece of wood was a failed experiment in rapid-curing the epoxy in an oven :redface:
On the left, 2 coats as-is. Stoddard solvent paint smells just like the old Testor's model car paint you used as a kid. Leveled nicely, took at least 8 hours to dry to the touch, about 24 hours for each coat to dry enough for another coat (at least, in the garage; probably less if outdoors). Very shiny gloss, almost too much IMO, I think it will glint too much in the sun. Unfortunately, only white comes off-the-shelf in semi-gloss.
In the middle, I was trying to get a "semi-gloss" by flattening the sheen with dental silica mixed into the paint: 1st coat 5% by weight, second coat 2.5% by weight. This is way too much silica:
- Made it "murdered out" flat in sheen
- Did not level as well (too viscous)
- Is softer (can dent with fingernail)
Probably 0.5% to 1% silica by weight will be better. I will continue experimenting with that. The 2.5%+ silica did make it dry to the touch in only about 2 hours, though.
On the right is the anti-slip experiment. Here is a close-up:
I mixed together the Rustoleum Marine anti-slip additive and the paint in the ratio indicated on the can. First coat is that mixture. On the right, I did a second coat with that mixture, on the left I did the second coat with straight paint.
The two-coats of anti-slip is too abrasive, and the second coats sticks up too much and some of the particles can be brushed away. Doing the second coat with straight paint was right-on; just enough texture, not abrasive, the particles are well encapsulated.
An aside about this particular anti-slip: it is not sand, it is ground pumice. It is porous so it absorbs paint and stays in suspension very nicely. And it does not have sharp, abrasive edges like sand. Mixed straight into the paint a foam brush picked it up nicely and distributed it well. I think it would work well for me.
I am going to test these paint patches for solvent resistance (gasoline, alcohol, carb cleaner, etc) over the weekend. If they resist gas and alcohol, and I can get the sheen just right with added silica, I'm going to give this paint and anti-slip a shot.