Disc brakes

Just replaced the front pads and rotors on my 1998 Explorer, my first DIY brake job. 2-piston floating calipers. I've pumped the pedal and have good pressure. Haven't put the wheels back on yet. I just have a couple questions:

When I spin the hubs, the pads remain in contact with the rotors.

It's ok to use boat trailer axle grease on the bearings, right? supertech white lithium. (the hubs are integrated with the rotors on this vehicle).

thanks,

Re: Disc brakes

Hey jtex, good to see you . . . I moved this to non-boating Tech as the Auto gurus hang here.

The discs and pads are supposed to maintain contact on disc brakes. I'll leave the grease question to Bondo . . . oh wait, he'd say "any grease is better than no grease at all", so don't listen to him

Re: Disc brakes

White lithium is not a automotive wheel bearing grease.

The tub of Valvoline I use has a rating of GC-LB on it.
It is a #2 grade lithium complex ep grease, reddish in color.

The description says "multi purpose, extreme pressure,
high temp. for disc brake wheel bearings, chassis,
suspension and universal joints."

Re: Disc brakes

There will be contact between the rotors and pads but no pressure until the brakes are applied.
I'm with Bond-O on the grease thing but better to use one suited for the application.

Re: Disc brakes

As stated, pads are normal.

Your grease choice is not a good one. Get high temp wheel bearing grease. If you were close to me, I have almost a full can I'd give to you!

Re: Disc brakes

...sigh...

ok, looks like I'll be repacking.

how thorough do I need to be, when cleaning out the stuff I put in there?

Thanks!

Re: Disc brakes

jtexas said:

how thorough do I need to be, when cleaning out the stuff I put in there?...

Click to expand...

Very thorough, you do NOT want to mix the types of grease.

Re: Disc brakes

When I do my brakes I always replace the little metal slides that are attached to the caliper mount. There will often be a white grease that you put in the grooves of the slides. I have noticed recently that the extra parts (slides and a few rubber pieces) do not come with the pads. you should ask about a hardware kits with the slides if your pads didn't include them..

Also, after taking your test drive put your hand close to the rims to ensure that your pads are not binding and overheating your brakes. If they are binding, they will be very hot and you won't have to touch your rim. You will feel it without touching.

I also replace the rotors when I replace pads. At a very minimum turn the rotors.. I just replace them as the cost is not that much more and it will last longer..

Just my .02..

Re: Disc brakes

ok, success! thanks for the help, guys. I almost didn't ask about the grease........

suprisingly easy, except for the rounded lug nut. Why do tire stores torque 'em down so far beyond spec? I need about a 4 foot cheater bar just to change a tire.

guy at the parts store sold me a tool that just didn't work (a "nut splitter" LOL). I spent hours drilling and cutting, finally got a tool at Sears did the trick in 30 seconds, a round socket with angled sharp edges inside.

[Note to roger: OMC molly lube seems to work pretty good on the slides, thanks for the tip]