2stroke1971
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2009
- Messages
- 209
1984 Bayliner Capri, Volvo AQ125 A .
It starts up fine, idles well. Clicking just into gear, you can leave the dock. If you nudge it up GENTLY, you can get going a bit more, but then giving it just a bit more--BLAH!
Bogs....nothing, it will crap out unless you pump the heck out of the throttle. Then it will sputter and then go. In fact boy DOES it go. Tops out GREAT...it will run WOT all you want and well. And, if you have it running near full speed, you can trim it back somewhat and find a good cruising speed.
Sometimes, it backfires thru the carb, especially if you light it up a bit and then trim it back...then to cure the backfires, I give it just a faint nudge of throttle, and it clears up.
Also the acceleration sometimes comes after a delay when your moving thru that crappy spot in the throttle. You pump the thottle, it sputters, and then 10 seconds later it launches, then Im trimming it back.
I rebuilt the carb,piece of cake, no real change, it may be a bit easier/smoother in the first bits of throttle, leaving the docks. Acclerator pump is squirting fine, adjusted it for maximum travel throughout the range of the cable.
If this was a motorcycle carb, I would say I had to adjust the height of the needle. However, there is, as far as I know, no metering device on this carb so so much for that. Behavior is the same hot or cold. Any way to adjust the float level? Didnt see any tangs to bend in there.
All in all, it seems that it is starving for fuel, until the engine RPMS get high enough to pull enough through?!?
With alot of "technique" its certainly useable as it is, but I got to get this ironed out. Any ideas? (Ive also had the timing at 6 degrees before and now as it sets, at 10 degrees)---it has the electronic ignition conversion on there too. (previous owner)
Now theres a thought....what sort of timing advance is used on the electronic units? Is the distributor unique to the electronic conversion, or does the conversion require modification of the original distributor?
I could almost believe the ignition advance is not working right the way its acting.
It starts up fine, idles well. Clicking just into gear, you can leave the dock. If you nudge it up GENTLY, you can get going a bit more, but then giving it just a bit more--BLAH!
Bogs....nothing, it will crap out unless you pump the heck out of the throttle. Then it will sputter and then go. In fact boy DOES it go. Tops out GREAT...it will run WOT all you want and well. And, if you have it running near full speed, you can trim it back somewhat and find a good cruising speed.
Sometimes, it backfires thru the carb, especially if you light it up a bit and then trim it back...then to cure the backfires, I give it just a faint nudge of throttle, and it clears up.
Also the acceleration sometimes comes after a delay when your moving thru that crappy spot in the throttle. You pump the thottle, it sputters, and then 10 seconds later it launches, then Im trimming it back.
I rebuilt the carb,piece of cake, no real change, it may be a bit easier/smoother in the first bits of throttle, leaving the docks. Acclerator pump is squirting fine, adjusted it for maximum travel throughout the range of the cable.
If this was a motorcycle carb, I would say I had to adjust the height of the needle. However, there is, as far as I know, no metering device on this carb so so much for that. Behavior is the same hot or cold. Any way to adjust the float level? Didnt see any tangs to bend in there.
All in all, it seems that it is starving for fuel, until the engine RPMS get high enough to pull enough through?!?
With alot of "technique" its certainly useable as it is, but I got to get this ironed out. Any ideas? (Ive also had the timing at 6 degrees before and now as it sets, at 10 degrees)---it has the electronic ignition conversion on there too. (previous owner)
Now theres a thought....what sort of timing advance is used on the electronic units? Is the distributor unique to the electronic conversion, or does the conversion require modification of the original distributor?
I could almost believe the ignition advance is not working right the way its acting.