Another Trick For Oxidation

Just being new to this forum and after receiving a warm welcome, I thought I'd share some of my experience as a professional painting contractor. After reading the post about using vasoline to restore a shine on fiberglass, I will just add my two cents. I've dealt with oxidation for years, mainly on oil based paint and anodized aluminum.
Product knowledge is the key to my success and now I will share some of it with you. Please use care when using the products I am recommending, read the labels and follow all of the safety precautions when using them.
If you have heavy oxidation (chalk appears on your hand after touching it) you should use a product containing oxalic acid. Scary as it may sound, oxalic acid is also known to be used as wood brightener or wood bleach. (It is not the kind of bleach you use in the laundry) It is used on exterior wood decks mainly to restore woods natural color before restaining. Many paint stores will carry oxalic acid in some of their exterior cleaning products. A good scrubbing while using product will help remove any loose chalk that is on the surface.
After the cleaning is complete, try using a product called Penetrol. It's main purpose is to thin oil based paints for spraying and increases leveling properties. If you read the label on the can like I have, it mentions how it restores dull, faded fiberglass. It comes in a regular and a marine version. I have no idea of the difference in these two products but as we all know marine = $. I told a friend about it and he used it. He liked the way it worked, didn't take long to apply, but only lasted about one season.
The point of me telling this is, is in contrary opinion of using vasoline. You can't paint over vasoline, and extensive prep would be needed if you ever do. Penetrol dries and once it is dry, a hard finish is created. Use sparingly though as the label stares. Although I have never tried it may take a wax to make a more beautiful shine.
Tell me your results and opinions on this topic. And again, Thanks for the warm welcome.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

Thanks for the info,any here have used penetrol BTW.

One more thing, I used to run a bodyshop, and there is NO more prep needed for Vaseline than any other job you would prep, it's not like it stays there forever. Did you actually try vaseline too?

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

Only used vaseline on my face when spraying. It wipes right off when I am done.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

Welcome to iboats ........ Yes discussions in reference to Penetrol have been going on here since I joined iboats! Care should be exercised since if the hull is not absolutely clean..... it will create a mess.

Take a look at the search button and mess with that a bit

The bottom line is...... everything is in the prep and time invested to obtain a good shine. I guess to could put it in the category of being a labor of love when you are doing a complete hull...... regardless of what you use it is all allot of work

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

billysboat said:

Only used vaseline on my face when spraying. It wipes right off when I am done.

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That is a great tip! You can use it on your hands too, when doing dirty work.

Bob is right, no matter what is right for you, it's a labor of love.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

Will oxalic acid damage metal works, i.e. aluminum, stainless or copper?

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

Usually when you buy a product containing oxalic acid, the label will tell you. When cleaning with it, it should also be diluted.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

Most of the marine hull cleaners contain the same acid.
I used it on my hull to remove the dark stains.Rinse it very well and it does not harm fiberglass.I think it would work fine on aluminum hulls also.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

tboltmike said:

Will oxalic acid damage metal works, i.e. aluminum, stainless or copper?

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It will if left there. You need to use hand/eye protection and plenty of fresh water to flush afterward.

I use a rust remover that I buy at Home Depot, to clean the scum line and any other stains off the hull. Main active ingredient is Oxalic Acid.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

billysboat, I will try the oxalic this Friday my day off been working on the oxidation on dark blue for awhile now. I have the stearn looking pertty good now lots of rubbing compound and polish but the sides look horrible. I just redid all the teak and the teak brightener (starbright) is oxalic acid worked great on the teak, will take before and after photos and see what happens Thanks for the tip. Boat is 24 years old but in great shape except that no one took care of the teak and gel coat till now.
Oh and welcome to iboats....

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

MRS, have you tried wet sanding? Use 800, then 1000 (if necessary), then rubbing compound, then polishing. The sandpaper doesn't require a whole lot of pressure -- you can feel it grab, then release, as it cleans.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

RickJ6956 said:

MRS, have you tried wet sanding? Use 800, then 1000 (if necessary), then rubbing compound, then polishing. The sandpaper doesn't require a whole lot of pressure -- you can feel it grab, then release, as it cleans.

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Yes I did that on the stearn plus wiped it with acetone then compound then polish no wax yet. I just got home from work will post some photos. I was going to try the acid and then sand then compound an polish to see if it gets more off that will be tomorrow. But on the stearn I had a lot of scraches to buff out I think because I went in circules and I should have just sanded in a straight direction will do that this time.... We will see what happens thanks for the tip.....
Having trouble with photo bucket so have to post one photo at a time here is before after

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

This is tomorrows work we will see what happens.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

The photos show that there is plenty of color left in there. I had the gray version of that boat ('87 195 Horizon) for nearly 20 years and never rubbed through the gel coat.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

MRS said:

This is tomorrows work we will see what happens.

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OK here is today

I did the ox acid and compound still not what I wanted. So went over it again with comet and compound way better will wax tomorrow and see what it looks like.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

OK I am almost happy with the finish two days and looks way better. Still has alittle oxidation but much better, it does have 24 years of ox on it I am not sure if I am useing buffer right or not but learning. One thing I have learned is you got to do it right I did try the vaseline thing and everything else but the compound and buffing wheel were the only thing that worked or is working for me. So I will hit it again at the end of the season and should even be better.....

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

Looks good, I am going to do mine next weekend.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

blairjbyrd said:

Looks good, I am going to do mine next weekend.

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Thanks don't give up it is a pain but is worth it once you get the oxidation off I have done mine three times an it actcully looks good now. But like I said not sure if I am useing the buffer right or not I think if someone that knew how to use right would probably get it done quicker. Good luck and do not give up...

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

Very nicely done, MRS!

There's not much technique to the compound & buffer. Slather it on, use slow speed/little pressure until you feel it grab, then crank the speed and push hard. Do a crosshatch vertical/horizontal pattern until the compound goes away and move on to the next section.

Re: Another Trick For Oxidation

IF you can't get results with wet sand/compound/polish/wax, then Penatrol is worth a try. I used it on the deep red on my 1985 boat and it came out very good. It's tricky to use though - you need to get the surface VERY clean, make sure all wax, etc. is gone and you are down to the fiberglass. Then, you can use a cloth to apply the Penatrol like you would a stain. THIN layers! You need to rub it in, back and forth, keep it thin. Let cure a day or so then another coat - even thinner this time.

The key is to again let it cure to a hard shell finish then a few coats of wax to seal it. Unlike vaseline, Penatrol dries very hard and can be protected by the wax.

I only have used it on the dark colors that show oxidation so badly. It worked wonders and has stayed nice for a few mths so far. I'll let folks know how it goes into next year. I expect it will be important to keep it waxed to protect the surface.