boat wiring

larlarsa

larlarsa

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am i did it right?
 

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82mustang

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Re: boat wiring

rough glance looks good, the only change I would be tempted to make is grounding the fuel sender on the grounding block, not directly to the battery as it appears in the diagram. That is depending on location, if its easier, than direct to the battery, or even a small ground block near the battery, so that its still only a 1 wire hookup. Also, I like the master cuttof for the pos on the motor, been thinking of doing something simmilar, hidden for just that much more security at the dock.
 
stylesabu

stylesabu

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Re: boat wiring

things look good except, don't use scotch locks, and the 1 switch above 12 outlet doesn't go to any thing
 
Don S

Don S

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Re: boat wiring

A few things I would change.


A. You do not want to run power to your outboard through a fuse. The starting circuit will take out most fuses.

B., C, You need a fuse withing 6' of a long run of wiring. The fuses will be sized for the wire. If B for example is a 14ga. wire, you would want to put a 15A fuse in it.
If C was 10 ga. then a 30A fuse would be fine.

D. There should be at most 2 connections to the negative terminal. The engine should be grounded directly, and a single cable to a ground buss bar. Keeps the battery terminals from looking like a porcupine.

E. Fuse (waterproof) at battery for the auto float switch side of the bilge pump wiring. The manual switch is protected by the fuse panel.


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larlarsa

larlarsa

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Re: boat wiring

Thank's for all the suggestion,but i have little confuse on Don.S suggest . on wire B and C, why B is 15A an C was 30A? the B is connect to the fish finder with an in line fuse already,and the livewell timer also have a build in fuse. C wire is for the fuse box main feed,is it need to put the 30A in between the penal? Thanks again.
 

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Silvertip

Silvertip

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Re: boat wiring

You also don't have a ground on the fuel gauge, and if it is back-lit there is no light wire from the NAV/ANCHOR switch (NAV side of switch).
 
larlarsa

larlarsa

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Re: boat wiring

how about this.i have switch for the Nav/Anchor light already ,the top two switch.
 

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stylesabu

stylesabu

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Re: boat wiring

no need to run 2 switches for nav lights, but you can if you like also you have no protection to your positive bus bar, the short black wire by motor is a good place to install fuse or breaker.
 
Don S

Don S

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Re: boat wiring

on wire B and C, why B is 15A an C was 30A?
Click to expand...

Strictly as an example, use the size wire you need, but put a fuse of appropriate size for that wire. The individule circuts will have fuses to each unit. The additional fuses B & C are to protect the wiring going TO the buss bar and fuse panel.
 
larlarsa

larlarsa

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Re: boat wiring

any problem now?
 

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Silvertip

Silvertip

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Re: boat wiring

Just one comment. Why do you have the nav and anchor lights on separate switches. One switch will do nicely. Use a single ON-OFF-ON switch as shown (unless you happen to like a dash full of switches).

Six pin switch (7 with indicator light) -- no diode required.

NavSwitchWiring.jpg


Three position switch (4 with indicator light) -- diode required.

Nav-AnchorSwitch.jpg
 
Don S

Don S

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Re: boat wiring

Clean up the grounds from the battery. ALL grounds should be hooked together on a boat. So all your ground buss bars must be connected together and have a single wire of appropriate size on the battery terminal.
You should only have 2 ground wires on your battery, one from all your house accessories, and the engine ground.


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larlarsa

larlarsa

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Re: boat wiring

ok, i will wire up all the neg wire together,Thank's again all the input.
 
larlarsa

larlarsa

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Re: boat wiring

here is the final
 

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Silvertip

Silvertip

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Re: boat wiring

Everybody is right (or is it everyone is half wrong). If the float switch is wired directly to the battery then a fuse is required. If the float switch is wired through a MANUAL/OFF/AUTO switch at the helm then the fuse in the fuse panel that protects the positive lead to the switch protects both the manual and auto circuits and one would not be needed in the line to the float switch. But then I've been wrong before -- once I think!!!!!!!!!!
 
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