New engine coupler weekend is here

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rad1026

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The weekend has finally arrived. I have a hoist I'm hoping is wide enough. If not I may have to remove my trailer fenders and tires. No big deal. I've prepped the boat. Only things left to remove are fuel line and power steering pump lines. Once I get the engine out what is next? Is the coupler under some kind of cover? Is it just a matter of removing the three bolts and installing the new coupler? Any tips from those who have done it would be appreciated! Thanks!
 
cooter2506

cooter2506

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

There will be a bellhousing cover that covers the coupler remove it and BINGO there it is. Spray all bolts before removing with some penetrant.
 
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rad1026

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

Oh, sorry, 1989 Chapparal 2100SX, 5.7L MCM, Alpha 1, Gen 1
 
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rad1026

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

lube the bolts? They have a red locktite already on them, why would you lube them? I can't find anything in my Mercruiser manual, do you know what the torque specs are? That's great info Bubba, thanks!
 
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krisnowicki

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

with it up an out... take some time and pain the bottom of the engine to keep rust off. Also, behind the bell housing is little wither 3/8 or 5/16 bolts holding the dust shield on, some people dont put the shield back on... Have fun and take your time good luck.
 
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rad1026

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

I can't find this procedure anywhere in my manual. I'm saying the bolts that came with the new coupler have a locking material already on the threads. I think lube on the bolts would offset the locking material. I'm in New Mexico, high, dry climate. Not much rust or corrosion here. If that is the reason for the lube, I think it will probably not be necessary.
 
SuperNova

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

rad1026 said:
I can't find this procedure anywhere in my manual. I'm saying the bolts that came with the new coupler have a locking material already on the threads. I think lube on the bolts would offset the locking material. I'm in New Mexico, high, dry climate. Not much rust or corrosion here. If that is the reason for the lube, I think it will probably not be necessary.
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Umm, alpha 1 gen 1 couplers used the flywheel mounting studs to also mount the coupler....there's six of them...the hub of the coupler should only be about 3" or so in diameter. Alpha1 gen 2's on the other hand used a coupler that has a big flange on it that bolted to the holes in the face of the flywheel....make sure you have the right parts before you start. Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong....but in either case, if you do indeed have the correct part then do NOT lube the bolts that hold the coupler to the flywheel......the threadlocker is there for a reason...bubba is just thinking of the wrong setup...
 
Bondo

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong....
Click to expand...

Ayuh,... You're Wrong,....:D TheMod.1s used the crankshaft mounted couplers...
By the Alpha 1s, most or All are the three legged variety...
 
SuperNova

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

Bond-o said:
Ayuh,... You're Wrong,....:D TheMod.1s used the crankshaft mounted couplers...
By the Alpha 1s, most or All are the three legged variety...
Click to expand...
You sure about that? All the ones I've dealt with have been from '83-89 and I know for fact they all say "Alpha" on the drives. :confused: This is the coupler I'm talking about: http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/merc...wer&Product_Code=BPI11500&Category_Code=MER6E

I guess it's the one for 2 piece rear main engines and the one you got is the one for 1 piece rear main seal engines....it's the only one I've had to deal with so far.. I do know that it gets used on the alpha gen1's with 2 piece rear main engines...which would be pre-'87 mostly...I thought the Alphas had pretty much replaced the MR's by '82
 
SuperNova

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

rad1026 said:
This is what I purchased:

http://www.ebasicpower.com/pc/MAL9-...ruiser MR, Alpha 14 Inch Flywheel Models.html

I have a new style U joint shaft because I replaced my upper drive unit about 4 years ago and it came with the newer style. Engine serial number OC470454. This is the correct part right?
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If your engine is a 1 piece rear main seal engine, it should be. One of the engines in my Nova is an '89 and it's a 2 piece rear main seal engine. If you have center-bolt valve covers, it's a pretty good chance that you have a 1 piece rear main and if that's the case, you should be alright, I think. That coupler will fit your outdrive input shaft, and it will bolt up to your flywheel no matter what you have......the only question is whether it will fit under your bell-housing or not....
 
Bondo

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

SuperNova said:
You sure about that? All the ones I've dealt with have been from '83-89 and I know for fact they all say "Alpha" on the drives. :confused:
Click to expand...

Ayuh,... Without diggin' into the parts listings,.. 99% sure...

What the Outdrive says means little or nothin',...
With the exception of internal hard parts, they're known as/ basically interchangeable...
Alpha 1, vs. Mod.1, pre-alpha..

I don't think you'll find crankshaft mounted couplers much after they went to the rounded, offset to the side risers on the 3.0l, or center riser V8/6s...
Which I believe occurred at about the same time frame...

Ya, Bubba,... You're smellin' like a Rose,.... I think.....;)
That coupler will fit your outdrive input shaft, and it will bolt up to your flywheel no matter what you have......the only question is whether it will fit under your bell-housing or not....
Click to expand...

Ayuh,... I believe he's got the Right 1....

The change in Chevy crankshafts may well be the reason for the change,...
But his boat is well into the Alpha 1 years...
 
SuperNova

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

I can say for sure that my '86 Wellcraft uses the rounded style coupler and also Lime4x4's '86 Searay uses the rounded coupler.....so what drives do we have then? Were they still using Mod.1's in '86? Not trying to argue, just trying to figure it out...so they are honest questions...

Edit: Just checked with lime4x4 and his engine has been replaced with a newer Vortech and has the triangular coupler......my brain fart...
 
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rad1026

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

Sheesh, you guys are freeking me out. Are you telling me there are that many different couplers used for that year, that drive, that engine serial number, etc. I looked up my serial number on a parts site and it sent me to that part number. I don't remember what parts site it was now, I think it was I-boats. The only choice I had was to buy it with the yoke or without the yoke. Since I already have the new style yoke I got the coupler without the yoke. Sounds like Bond-o thinks I have the right part so I'll stop biting my finger nails. You guys know how to make a man nervous. Do you know how much beer it would cost me to get that thing up in the air and find out I have the wrong part? My buddies would still expect payment.
 
SuperNova

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

rad1026 said:
Sheesh, you guys are freeking me out. Are you telling me there are that many different couplers used for that year, that drive, that engine serial number, etc. I looked up my serial number on a parts site and it sent me to that part number. I don't remember what parts site it was now, I think it was I-boats. The only choice I had was to buy it with the yoke or without the yoke. Since I already have the new style yoke I got the coupler without the yoke. Sounds like Bond-o thinks I have the right part so I'll stop biting my finger nails. You guys know how to make a man nervous. Do you know how much beer it would cost me to get that thing up in the air and find out I have the wrong part? My buddies would still expect payment.
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It's not the outdrive that dictates the coupler in this case...it's the engine and if you looked it up using your serial number...then yes you should have the right one.

As for you, bubba...no you're still wrong, you dont grease the coupler mounting bolts......so bite me....:D I know bond-o is just siding with you because he just loves grease sooo much.....but in this case I'm gonna hafta say less is better....lol
 
Bondo

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

it's the engine and if you looked it up using your serial number...then yes you should have the right one.
Click to expand...

Ayuh,... Yer covered Rad,... It'll fit, Just Fine...

I just reread this whole darn thread,...
I mis-spoke,...
Bubba,... You're smellin' more like the Bucket....
The bolts don't need no Special treatment,+ the flywheel ain't gonna fall off either...

Just Grease the 'ell outa the splines.....;)
 
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rad1026

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

Thanks Bondo, thats my plan, plus the new coupler has the grease fitting on it so that will help too. I think Bubba also misspoke about the power steering pump. He said DO NOT remove the power steering pump hoses. He said remove the pump and lay it aside. But the pump is also hooked to the oil cooler so you really can't just remove the pump like he suggested. I think I have to remove the hoses from the steering unit and lay them up on the engine. Can you confirm this? And since the flywheel isn't going to fall off I probably don't need to mess with removing the starter like Bubba suggested also.
 
Bondo

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

Can you confirm this?
Click to expand...

Ayuh,... Personally,.. I cap off the lines,+ clean up any spilt oil with a rag...
Much easier than droppin' the pump...

You're headed the Right way,+ I forsee No real issues...
 
SuperNova

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Re: New engine coupler weekend is here

rad1026 said:
Thanks Bondo, thats my plan, plus the new coupler has the grease fitting on it so that will help too. I think Bubba also misspoke about the power steering pump. He said DO NOT remove the power steering pump hoses. He said remove the pump and lay it aside. But the pump is also hooked to the oil cooler so you really can't just remove the pump like he suggested. I think I have to remove the hoses from the steering unit and lay them up on the engine. Can you confirm this? And since the flywheel isn't going to fall off I probably don't need to mess with removing the starter like Bubba suggested also.
Click to expand...
Personally I've found it easier to do as you originally planned and disconnect the power steering lines at the steering unit and then disconnect the water inlet hose at the transom plate. You shouldn't need to remove the starter, either......
Edit: Bondo beat me to it.....but I agree anyway...
 
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