Re: Impeller damage and leaking milky fluid. Where cld it b comin from?
yes if the oil in the gear case is milky there is water getting in. You could have prop shaft or drive shaft seals gone the gearcase seal or even the shift rod seal.. Note carefully how any that you remove are fitted.
Can't think what you were trying to connect the muffs to but you can make a plate with a hose connector on it that fits in place of the water bypass cover plate. A barrel is better though... you don't get your feet wet and it silences the exhaust noise.
The oil is high viscosity outboard gear oil (eg Hi-Vis) About sae 80/90.
If you need to flush the gear case You could fill with a cheap automotive engine oil ... the cheapest.. give it a quick whirl in the barrel, drain thoroughly and then refill with the correct oil.
On the subject of sealers Joe Reeves says
Gasket Sealers
(Usually available at any reliable automotive parts type store)
(J. Reeves)
Do Not use any type of sealer on outboard carburetor or intake manifold gaskets as this would cause blockage of various fuel/air passageways. Also, there are new type gaskets, including head gaskets, which are used through out the engines that are coated with a substance that gives a shinny appearance to them. These gaskets are coated with a self sealer and are to be installed as is.... no sealers! Older style head and fuel related gaskets that are not coated with this substance are to be simply coated with oil.... nothing else.
All other gaskets (hopefully I've not overlooked anything above) should be coated with Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap). This also pertains to some water pump installations that use a gasket between the plate and the lower unit housing.
Marprox Sealer 1000 or OMC Adhesive or Boat Armor Sealer 1000 (same substance) should be used on any metal to metal or metal to plastic surface (such as impeller hsg to plate) to eliminate air leaks. It should also be used on the Spaghetti tubing that is used on many powerhead crankcase halves, lower unit skegs, etc. I have found that this substance works quite well on various "O" Rings such as what are found on lower unit carrier and upper driveshaft bearing housings (Note that this substance is obviously not to be used on all "O" Rings).
DO NOT use any sealer on the large "O" Rings that are used on the upper and lower crankcase heads (The housing/heads that slide over the top and bottom of the crankshaft). On those "O" Rings, use only a coating of grease.
The exception of surface to surface contacts pertains to the later model matching crankcase (block) halves (which does not incorporate spaghetti tubing) which call for "Gel-Seal", or any other surface that calls for Gel-Seal. This substance seals in the absense of air, and if called for, must be used. One other form of Gel Seal that can be substituted is "Loctite #518". Nothing else that I know of will do!
I advise against using silicone or permatex on a outboard engine. It simply will not function properly. The exception to this (as per OMC's recommendation), is to use the black Permatex (heavily) on the gasket 306242 which seperates the inner exhaust tube from the exhaust housing on the 1959 35hp and 1960 to 1970 40hp OMC outboards.
