1994 Bayliner capri 1800

Hello all-

I juist joined this forum yesterday! I am excited to learn a lot for all the experienced boaters out there. Here is my situation...

Lat summer i bought a 1994 Bayliner Capri 1800. It has a 120 Force outboard. I got a really good deal from a guy on craigslist. The body needed some TLC but the motor was strong. I did some basic cosmetic stuff to the hull with marinetex and gelcoat.

I dropped it in Lake Michigan last June and used it all summer. It worked great. However, there are some issues that need addressing....

I noticed some water in the bildge; and this wasnt from me getting in and out of the water. More like a gallon every hour. I believe its coming in through the engine mounts, guessing the seals are bad.

I also noticed a hummingbird device screwed in on the bottom of the transom. The screws were rusted...looks like some hack job done. Needless to say when i unscrewed it, water poured out. I stuck a screw driver all the way through! I propped the boat as close to perpendicular to the ground as possible....when it was all said and done, about 10 gallons of water came out! Where was all this water sitting? in any event , i plugged it and used it the rest of the summer.

My goal this spring is to redo the floor, possibly stringers, and i need to address the transom. There is no flexing of any kind but I dont like being on the big lake always worrying about a weak transom. any thoughts or ideas would be great appreciated. thanks much!

Lakeman

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

Uh oh. Most likely, the transom is shot. Plan on rebuilding it, as well as the stringers and sole, or parting out the boat and getting another one.

Not what you wanted to hear, I'm sure.

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

I just finished redoing a floor on an '89 15'.

About $300 worth of epoxy. Way more than I planned for two small sections totalling about 20sq feet. The experience was rewarding, however.

Epoxy and Polyester/Vinylester resins have skyrocketed in cost in the last 5 yrs.

Engine mount leaks are easy, 3M 5200.

Replacing the stringers, transom et. al. could easily be 100 hrs of labor and $2000 worth of materials.

I say plug it up as best you can and enjoy it. If the floor is spongy but without holes, you could rip the carpet up and do a fiberglass (epoxy) layer of 1708 biaxal over the wood, & lay new carpet.

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

Thanks for the advice guys....
I think i will pull up the carpet and see just how bad she is under there. Like i said, I dont want to be messing around on lake Michigan with a questionable rig. I will post some pics when i start and hopfully you could offer some more advice. Also, whats "3M 5200"? is that just a brand of a sealant?

Lakeman

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

Hey lakeman,

Just to clarify a couple of things. If you plan on doing any fiberglass work on your boat read a couple of books about it first - or check out youtube.
There is no need to spend big bucks on epoxy resin - use plain ole' poly- that's what your boat is made of so you will not be shortchanging yourself in the strength department. ( gotta' do it right though ).
On the transom repair look into a product called Seacast. Easy enough to Google. Good for stringers too.
Yes, the 3M 5200 is a BONDING caulk. Use that when you don't want pieces to come undone. For 'softer' repairs stay with their 4200.

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

"There is no need to spend big bucks on epoxy resin - use plain ole' poly"

Actually, gallon for gallon, the two are about the same cost now.

Epoxy is about 3-4 times as strong, so ultimately less could be used, making it cheaper.

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

I think I paid about $32 per gallon for polyester resin last summer. Isn't epoxy a lot more than that>

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

Premium poly resin is about the same as epoxy. Boatyard or equivalent is cheaper.

If the boat is being redone -stringers and all- then yes poly is probably fine, but I hope it's realized just how much work that is. If only portions of the floor/transom are being replaced, then epoxy is much better due to the strength to mate to what's left. I've done partial rebuilds (just the floor, etc) booth ways and poly just doesn't last as long nor hold the old and new together like epoxy. Also, if he's doing it in a attached garage- don't forget about the smell- poly is nasty- epoxy has none.

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

Thanks for the info guys...
Well it looks like it will depend upon how bad it looks underneath the floor... In regards to using the seacast, i like that idea as i have done a bunch of research on it. Im guessing its imperative to have to get the motor off to do that? I was hoping to avoid that but i am not going to cut corners. Man, i can tell this could get ugly! Let me ask you this....What if the only the bottom left corner of the transom is shot due to that hummingbird device.... Would it it be possible to use that gitrot product in just that area to prevent it from spreading?

thanks guys.

Lakeman

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

Remember, unless you're a harbormaster or commercial fisherman you're probably using the boat 50-100 hrs per year.

Personally, I'd find the holes and plug them. Yes try the git rot (which is epoxy) on the fishfinder holes. Use the boat until you can afford a better one. Don't look for perfection here.

If you are serious about redoing the boat down to the stringers be ready for a 1-2 year job. A major supplier is currently in the process of doing just that (videos are available on the Web), it's already been over a year with two guys 1-2 nights a week and they are just down to the stringers. As much as I love Bayliners, they are generally not ecomically worth a full rebuild. By comparison, just about any Boston Whaler is (both brands are owned by Brunswick by the way).

Another tact would be to buy another model of the same boat and rebuild one while your a still boating with the other. By example the '89's are quite popular, I have over $1000 invested in new vinyl and other parts, but by using the wrong trailer mine has developed a permenant hook on the bottom, I'm looking for another one of the same model, with the proper trailer, that will undoubtly need a new floor and better engine, I'll fix that one up while i'm still using the one with the hook, then I'll eventually swap the good vinyl, engine, etc.

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

I've had the same problem on a boat I had years ago. Take a rubber mallet, and do a tap test, you should be able to get a idea how bad the problem is.
Use your drill to enlarge the holes where the depth finder sensor was attached. Get a wooden dowl the same size as the holes,cover it with marine epoxy and insert into the hole and trim flush. For your engine mount bolts pull them out use a good grade marine sealant in the holes and reinstall the bolts.
When not using the boat,keep it nose high to help the drainage of water. At the end of the year,you can decide if you need to do a complete rehab over the winter.

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

Guys-

I started the big project this past weekend finally! I will post some pics momentarily of my findings. Here is what happened...

First i stripped the carpet off. Im not sure if this is standard but the floor was covered with fiberglass. It was pretty worn and squishy in some spots. I used my circular say and adjusted the setting to about 7/8''. I first cut out the floor in front of the drivers seat. A few things to note. The foam up there was in good condition(so i could tell). I also found out that the stringers and bulkheads were encapsulated in fiber glass. They were all in really good condition! I was kind of taken back by this. Do all Bayliner models do this? If not, when did they start encapsualting with fiberglass? either way, so far so good, however, i knew the rear was going to be the ***** of it.

I then moved to the back; different story. I cut the first section out and squishy foam and sitting water. unbelievable. I continued to cut out the entire back floor(as much as the circular saw would allow. Both sides of the boat were saturated. SO i kept going and removed all the foam. Three industrial size garabage bags filled to the top. They must have weighed 400 pounds combined. That might explain why i thought she was sittting a bit low in the water! Now, once again, the stringers and bulkheads were covered in fiberglass and they still have that pinkish look to them. I have to say, i think they are still in great condition. Could the fiberglass have protected them from the 10 years of abuse? Also, under the foam was a layer pf plastic. Am i correct tp assume this is to prevent the foam from sticking to the hull? I got as much of the foam out and suctioned all the sitting water and am letting it air out now. I am going back this week with a jig saw to get closer to the corners and edges. I also need to cut out the section furthest to the back as the circular saw couldnt get it.

One question i do have regards the gas tank. It is located under the floor in the middle back portion of the boat. Here is where i need some help. As i ripped the floor off above the tank, there was a loose piece of plywood sitting on top of the tank. When i pulled it off, it was covering 2 holes. These holes are in the origional desin of the tank but i have no idea what they are for? And why is the piece of plywood just laying on top if it not attached to anything? I am the first person to redo the floor so i assume this must be origional? i dont know, but it looked a bit strange.

Like i said, I will upload some pictures asap so you can see what i am talking about. be back soon.

Lakeman

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

Here are some pics

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

and some more....

Re: 1994 Bayliner capri 1800

and some more.... i will have more to come with all the foam out mid week.