1970's Evinrude 65hp question

FFScott6

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 2, 2007
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Been reading some... I'm getting a 1973 Manatee with a 65hp Evinrude and newer roller trailer for under $1000. Boat is solid but stripped out inside, and roller trailer is good.

Here's my Question; aside from "awakening an outboard," impeller change and the other tips for a motor of unknown history or reliable info (which I have used sucessfully on a 1960 Gale soveriegn 60hp), What would I look for or should I expect. I don't have the exact model #'s yet, maybe tuesday am.

I'll post more as soon as I get it. Below is the boat and motor. obvoiusly before the snow!

Thanks
 

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ClassyGlassy

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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

that looks exactly like the 73 65hp that's on my boat! I love this motor.....look to see if it's been pressure washed! There should be a good amount of grease on the flywheel and starter gear. Look to see if there's silicone around the coils and check to see if 1 has been replaced.....I only change out all 3 when I need to change one! Also, take a BIG flathead and pull the upper inspection plug on the lower unit Starboard side and see if a little oil drains out while sitting in the down position, then check for color/smell/metal flakes.....Lastly, check to make sure your electric choke cycles with the cover off and hitting the choke switch at the controls......

I would immediately purchase a full impeller kit with the plastic water pump housing, drain all oil out of the lower unit and refill with the proper oil, then pull the fuel pump apart and clean/inspect the pump screen and seal. Put an inline glass/cleanable fuel filter in the line after the prime ball.

I have the original owner's manual and pamphlets for this motor! I can scan and email them if you need them. I also recommend you purchase the Johnson/Evinrude SELOC manual #1308.....
 

ClassyGlassy

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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

I also have a COMPLETE back-up/parts motor with one dead cylinder if you're missing anything minor!
 

jay_merrill

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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

IMO, the three cylinder loopers are among the best engines that OMC ever made. I have a '72 Johnson 65hp, which is essentially the same engine as yours, except it has hydro-electric shift, instead of hydro-mechanical shift.

I would do a compression test on it first. If you are lucky, you will see values in the mid 140s, but may be more likely to see them in the 120s to 130s. Unless the values are quite a bit below that, are more than 10% apart from one another in value, or you have some other, obvious and serious mechanical issue, you should have a pretty decent powerhead.

I would replace the gear oil and drain it into a clean cup, so that you can check for the presence of water, metal grit and/or other debris. If the oil is clean and clear of water, you should be OK in terms of seals and mechanical condition. You gearbox uses an internal pump and a set of poppet valves to create and direct hydraulic pressure on a piston, which moves the clutch dog. Since the gear oil acts as the hydraulic fluid, its important to use the right oil. The original name for the correct oil was "Type C" and the currently recommended oil is BRP "Premium Blend." I don't have a lubrication chart for your motor, but in the hydro-electric version of the gearbox, 25.3 ounces of gear oil are required. I suspect that yours requires the same or very close to that amount. Don't forget to use new crush washers under the heads of the vent and drain screws every time you remove them!

Also change your gear oil frequently, since that is the best way to keep your gear box's "innards" clean. Hydro-electric and hydro-mechanical gear boxes don't like dirty oil, because they depend on the ability of the piston to move freely. The presence of water and/or grit tends to cause problems, and eventually, shifting problems. As for what the term "frequently" means, that is relative to how much you use the engine. I run my motor quite a bit, 12 months per year, so I do it about 3 times a year.

Depending on how long the motor has been sitting, you may or may not need to do a carb rebuild. If you do, you will need a special screwdriver to remove the fixed, high speed orifices in the carbs. If memory serves me correctly, there is a thread somewhere in the iboats server on this subject - I would do a search for something along the lines of "evinrude johnson 65hp carb rebuild." A link & sync after the rebuild would be a good idea, too.

The ignition system on your motor is pretty simple. It has an alternator, which is made up of the flywheel and the stator, a timer base, a power pack and three ignition coils. Once you get an OEM manual for this motor (available online from a variety of sources), you can get into the theory of operation. Suffice it to say, however, that you may experience ignition problems at some point and have to do some trouble shooting and parts replacement. Most of the testing that you need to do to isolate a failed part, can be done with a simple multimeter. If you ever end up having to replace ignition parts, I recommend either Sierra or CDI parts, because they are about half the price of the BRP parts. Further, the parts that BRP is now selling as OEM items for your motor, are reputed to be aftermarket parts anyway.

Another common replacement item on these motors, is the rectifier. Its function is to convert the 300VAC that the alternator produces, to 12VDC for the motor's charge system. In order for the motor to recharge your battery and provide a signal for a standard tach, this must be working. Your alternator only puts out 6 amps, so don't expect to run a lot of gear off of it, without some battery drain. Your system also requires a battery of at least 70 amp hour capacity.

If the motor has the originally specified Champion UL77V surface gap spark plugs, get rid of them. Replace the plugs with Champion L77JC4 plugs. I think you find that the motor will run better, throughout the operational range, with these plugs. Whatever you do, don't run NGK plugs in it - I can't explain from a technical perspective why they don't work well, but my local BRP dealership swears that they don't. I couldn't believe that there could be that much difference in a plug that was billed as an "equivalent plug," but he was right - the motor ran like crap.

As has been already mentioned, doing a water pump rebuild is always a good idea with a motor that is new to you. That may require little more than an impeller change, but it may also call for installation of a complete kit. You'll just have to take it apart to see what the cup and housing look like. Once you get it all back together, run the motor on a hose/muffs. Provide enough water pressure to feed the engine, but not so much that you are force feeding the cooling system. You should see a bit of mist coming out of the pressure relief holes on the back of the midsection and the t-state should open up in about 60 seconds, give or take a little. Once it does, you should see water begin to flow out of the vertical slits, located above the cavitation plate.

Your motor does not have a telltale (pee tube) in it. If you want to install one, you may find this thread to be interesting. I left the brass nipple in mine, after talking to a bunch of people about the galvanic corrosion issue. While I don't mean to discount the advice of folks here and the corrosion factor in general, I just don't feel that its going to be a big enough problem to warrant a lot of worry. As I said in another thread recently, I think the arteries in my heart will "corrode" and kill me, long before this nipple falls out.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=287975&highlight=johnson+65hp+tel+tale

One other peculiarity of your motor, is that it has an automatic, thermal choke function. This works through a temperature sensor, located on the port side of the cylinder head, and a two stage choke solenoid. When you turn the ignition key on, if the head is below the predetermined temperature, the thermal sensor sends an electrical signal to the choke solenoid, which actuates the solenoid/choke butterfly halfway. While this seemed like a good idea in theory, OMC found that it was causing motors to run too rich often times, which caused fouling problems.

See the following Service Bulletin, for instruction on how to bypass this system. Pay particular attention to the jumper that must be used to get full actuation, when you use the choke switch at the remote control.




JohnsonSB1335.jpg




???
 

jay_merrill

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5,653
Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

Update: I just noticed that you said that your boat is a 1973, not your engine. The motor looks like a ERude 65hp of early 70sw vintage, which would make it a '72 or '73, but the difference is important, because of the difference between a hydro-electric model and a hydro-mechanical model.

If you can find a model number (should be on the port transom bracket), post it here and I'll amend my comments, as necessary.



???
 

FFScott6

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Aug 2, 2007
Messages
136
Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

WOW!
I love too tinker and this is going to be great. I am into reading manuals, preferably OEM. As soon as I get this boat, motor and trailer combo home, hopefully Tuesday evening I'll post some model and serial numbers and a couple of pictures. I really want to photo document the process and post maybe on one of those sharing websites.

It'll be a week or two till I can check it out further (have to finish home projects before easter dinner). The more I think about it as I am typing, I followed much of the same "prep"work on my Gale 60hp. ( Spent more on manuals and "tune up parts" than the boat.)

Thank You for the great tips and details in your posts, for that I'll be sure to keep you all informed of my progress so that others can be assured this information sharing works as it is meant too.
 

FFScott6

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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

Well.. I went to inspect & trailer needs minimal work but it is towable the way it is. The transom is solid as are the floors. I made the deal...

Now the motor... this rig was last run until the end of the 2008 season. I'm not to concerned about the motor for what I paid for the whole setup. The motor model # is 65373R and the serial # is J(?)014436. I did not take the cover off (as I mentioned what I paid for the whole rig I'm not really worried too much). The single control is a bit stiff, but is lose enough to work it. There is a "quick start" lever inboard of the control, the key and choke switch are aft on the housing. Steering is intact but could use greased at the motor end (or more likely the whole cable).

I'm going to bring it home saturday am and over the next week or so I can get more photos!

Jay, I feel that your tip and posts here are going to help!
TubToy, I'll let you know abotu theose E/R parts very soon... Thanks for the offer!

I can't wait!!!
 

ClassyGlassy

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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

It is the EXACT motor that I have! 1973 65hp.......great motor!!!
 

FFScott6

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

Well I got it home! and here is what I know;

**The motor model # is 65373R and the serial # is J 014436.
**Battery wires need replaced, Control harness "looks" good for the length although I still need to test continuity on all wires.
**Control shifts the gear case and throttle controls work on the carbs
**Using a bat. jumper the key turns over the motor (manually turned the flywheel to unsure it was not locked up before trying the starter).
**lowest cylinder (3?) plug wire is pulled out of the coil (guess I need coils)
**The carbs appear to have been rebuilt (the cover and air box are off and the screws are no where to be found) I'll get several s/s replacements.
** there appears to be a brownish shellac like (hard and brittle) substance that may have leaked(?) from under the flywheel. Closer inspection (without flywheel removed yet) does not show and evidence of leak
** prop (in N) spins without effort or feeling of grit wear etc. When assistant manually turned flywheel (in gear) the gears felt smooth. I'll drain oil and inspect it soon.
**I'll hook up a compression tester after I get some battery cables (at least make a set to test with before I spend too much money) and then post those readings here.

There were two fuel tanks (a 6g and 12g both about 1/2) left for me!!! of course it would better seal my next wood working project! needless to say I'll need to replace all the hoses, primer bulb and fittings. Oh Yeah, there is a cartridge type fuel filter/seperator, which I'll replace.

Here are a couple of pictures (4) for now... I need that motor manual now preferably OEM but Seloc will work too. Will need to dust off my multi meter next. Thanks for looking and all the help.
 

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ClassyGlassy

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

look at the price of coils, then email me if you'd rather I send you a used one to get it running and then save up for the rebuild! ;)

Make sure all of the linkage is there as well......I'll send you what you need!

Paul
 

FFScott6

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Messages
136
Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

Thanks Paul!

I need to get into the seloc book and do more electrical testing etc. I want to be sure power is getting to the motor at least the starting circuit. At that point I'll fire it up and make sure the regulator, rectifier, et al is good. the risk to fouling a plug on a brief run on the muffs will tell me more.

Your offer for parts is tops on my list, to check with you first.

There is a small thumb screw/pin, for trailering? Mine is frozen. I have PB Blaster on it. What position should this be in when the motor is in the water? How difficult is your motor to raise up when you've retrieved? The two "helpers" on mine seem weak...it takes a great deal of effort to tilt the motor back. Quite unlike my Gale motor with a "bear trap" spring assist!

Thanks again for your offer(s)... Spring is just around the corner...
 

FFScott6

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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

Well,,,
I got some info on the motor. When connected to the battery all the functions seem to be there.

1. Starter engages
2. choke switch operate the choke coil
3. engine turns over
4. All linkage is free
5. pulled the plugs, compression test, throttles held open then allowed to be closed, readings are averaged no noticable difference with open vs closed throttle;
#1 = 120 plug = slight fouling, but maybe leaking rings or weak spark
#2 = 60 plug = fouled but not unusually worn (my gale 60hp plugs were worse)
#3 = 120 plug = slight fouling, i'm thinking weak spark (rusty connector when I pulled the lead off. by the way the others are ok.)

All 3 plugs = no major issues with electrodes (not burnt or rounded or pitted, I think they've been in toooo long. I did not measure the gap but it is abviously less than .030, they are Champion L77JC4 plugs. There are no obvious signs of an overheated engine. If the tests below allow me to run the motor I'll decarb maybe that #2 cylinder has stuck rings. Can the problem be bad reeds? OR TELL ME IF THIS MOTOR IS DEAD... before I waste my time. I'm not afraid to tear it down either, if it is worth it.

I'm out of spray oil so I did not get to do a wet compression test. Will post wet compression reading in a couple of days.

Too bad it's raining, I'd love to get the Seloc manual out and start verifying the electrical components and remove the flywheel to inspect stator, points, wiring etc.

Thanks for reading and commenting - Scott

PAUL - keep that motor handy!
 

ChazNY

Cadet
Joined
Jan 28, 2008
Messages
12
Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

I'm running a '72 65hp Johnson as well. Been a great motor. Interested in fllowing along with this thread. Jay has a wealth of info on these motors. That #2 cylinder is definately low. Hopefully just stuck rings. As far as the choke goes, my electric choke does not work. Fine by me. I just do it manually. Fires right up and runs flawlessly. Best of luck with your new "toy". I hope any problems are few and easily fixed.
 

DJacksonRN

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Nov 2, 2010
Messages
29
Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

Been following this thread for a while. Bought a '72 Johnson 65 about a month ago, removed from a decrepit Bonito. Couldn't check anything on site other than the prop spun and drove the cylinders with the plugs removed (in F/N/R, now I know why) so it appeared to be not frozen, and I picked it up for $125. Did a LOT of reading and dissection of parts diagrams, and ordered up what I thought was needed to revive it. New water pump impeller (kept the old aluminum housing and machined .006 off it to smooth it out), lots of tripleguard, flushed and refilled the lower end (no H2O or metal that I could see), replaced the washers on the in/out on the lower end. Hydro-electric cables were a BEEOTCH to rethread, even though I had snaked fishing line through to do it. Eventually used my trusty Camelback tubing and some ingenuity to get them back up. Rebuilt the carbs, reeds looked good, compression checked out at 135, 130 and 132. Good spark, newer plugs were already in it. Replaced the fuel filters and lines with ETOH resistant material and regreased the starter. Replaced the t-stat and gasket and grommets in the bypass. She fired up on the first try on Friday, ran great, works in F/N/R. Didn't bring her up to speed (on muffs), but pleased with the results so far. Total cost so far: $275 (including the big tub of Tripleguard that should last a while...) Look on wife's face after a month of shaking her head.... priceless! Now, where can I find an outrageous deal on a 16 foot skiff to mount her on....the engine, not the wife!
 

FFScott6

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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

I'm still here...
Lots of things going on related to the "home" front, BUT now that the holidays are over I can begin to plan for the rebuild on this motor. I'm leaning (heavily) to removing the powerhead and having it bored for oversized rings, since I have to take it down anyway. I have searched for the majority of parts and between a couple of shops and online stores I can get everything I'll neeed. Best case is once it's completed I'll have a motor worth considerably more than I have invested. (I'm not counting sweat equity, but then I consider that an internship) There is so much good info here... it is amazing.

Paul.... you here??? Still have that parts motor? PM me and maybe you'll have parts we can work out a deal on. Still not sure what used parts to install but let's get together on it, if you don't mind.

Now I can't wait to get better weather ( I have to work outside) and get to work on the boat!

Have a safe and Happy New Year everyone!!!
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
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Jul 7, 2006
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28,195
Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

Don't bore it unless it needs it. Inspect it first. Unnecessary boring wastes money and metal.

Be sure to check the exhaust covers on the side of the block. They were a major problem with those motors. Even the slightest hint of overheating will warp the baffle cover and then it will squirt water into the cylinder, destroying the piston. If not corrected during the rebuild, you will just destroy another one.
 

FFScott6

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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

Thanks F_R

I believe in a previous thread you warned me of that (exhaust cover issue), I'm not sure what to make of the new forum layout. Anyway, I'm going to borrow a dial caliper and check for out of round cylinders before I do anything rash other than simply cleaning up the cylinder walls. I'm assuming here but there a many causes of overheating... hidden in the exhaust covers it seem (by diagram anyway) there are many passages for water flow & exhaust, is there something in particular or typical to look for after I disassemble the exhaust side, that causes overheating. I have no history on this motor. I'll be ordering a water inlet screen since most of the one that is there is missing. For me replacing all of the pump, thermostat, and associated parts will be standard.

I do see evidence on both props and the skeg that motor was likely run in shallow sandy water. must have been a fisherman in this boat (I found lots of signs, spent lures, weights, line, had 4 pole holders mounted aft, an old boat fishing permit (NJ), etc... I'm guessing atleast some salt water useage.

The boat and motor were part of the deal to get a decent trailer... no harm no foul if I screw something up or simply send them (boat and older trailer) to Boat Angel for a small tax deduction.

I had Gale motor issues the last trip out, bad ground wire, then found out stripped spark plug holes and a broken stud (with the easy out broken too) taking the port head off. At least I didn't get out in the bay that day and spit spark plugs out hte motor cover. HaHa. That'll be my first job to get back to boating this spring. anyway...that is in another thread posted several weeks ago.

Thanks again, Scott
 

Charles King

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Nov 23, 2009
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37
Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

FFScott6,
I also have a 73 Evinrude 65 hp Model #65373R, Ser # J0020173 missing lower unit. Motor has not been started for several years. Still turns free. How is best method to determine if I should repair, or part out?
Appreciate any advice from Members.
 

jay_merrill

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Re: 1970's Evinrude 65hp question

Charles, I recommend that you start your own thread to get help on your issue.



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