Electrics on an '84 Bayliner (dash controls)

2stroke1971

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 8, 2009
Messages
209
Been working on my Capri that I bought a few weeks back, and now Im going thru the dash controls. I'm putting all new switches in for one thing.

My question is about how it is supposed to work. I say that because this boat has been redone before, some of the wiring and the distribution panel is not stock, that I know.

First, there is a TINY toggle switch named "main"...when you turn it on, the only thing I can tell is that the gauges energize..the needles all jump into position. (Even with no key in it)

Trim pump works no matter what, key or not, main on or not.

Accessory...the gauge lights come on, but again, regardless of main and key.

I would have thought that main would be a "main" disconnect...and would be a beefier switch. So nothing would work without main being on..or do I have that wrong?

Also, the key switch issue...how much of the boat should have power with no key in it? I would think the battery might be more apt to drain that way..

Bilge pump and blower I dont know about, they are not working at the moment so I dont know how they behave, or should behave.

Thanks in advance,
Neil
 

windsors03cobra

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
1,191
Re: Electrics on an '84 Bayliner (dash controls)

My boat which from looking under the dash is factory original is wired pretty good IMO.
The gauges and their lights come on with the key in run, so the gauge lights are on all the time which is a bit wasteful and unnecessary, I might change them to come on only with the nav lights this season.
The radio comes on in run and acc, I wired that to the ignition switches acc. terminal which is also hot in run
Nav lights, blower and bilge have constant power as do the tilt and trim controls.

Good luck.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,762
Re: Electrics on an '84 Bayliner (dash controls)

There are two electrical systems on most smaller recreational boats. 1) the engine harness and 2) the boat harness. The engine harness carries 12 volts and ground up front for operation of the gauges and some very low current draw accessories. Therefore they should be active only with the key in the RUN position. The boat harness runs directly from the battery to the fuse panel but it may or may not hit the MAIN switch first and you are correct. The only function of the MAIN switch is to kill all power to the fuse panel and therefore anything NOT fed from the ignition switch. Likewise, instrument lights should not be lit unless the NAV lights are on. They do not have to be on when the ANCHOR light is on and they should not be powered from the ignition switch.
 
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