1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

fergmerc

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Dec 31, 2009
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I am new to posting but have learned alot form reading over the past year. Here goes:

We have a 1968 merc1000 (100 HP in line 6) ser #2837868 which has been a great motor since we fixed it up last spring. The top cowl says its a BP but it has a regular tiger block and lower unit - so we think that's probably just a red herring. It hadn't run in a few years, but we did a carb job, got it to pee, and made a few other small adjustments and it ran hard all summer - once or twice a week fishing or skiing.

This is a "TIGER" block. Compression was 135 - 140 in all 6 cyinders. It ran at around 5100 rpm on the top end, like I said with no issues all last summer.

On our last trip up to Alton Lake - I still remember it well - it was a sunny fall day - tha day of the Notre Dame/Michigan football game - the boys and I were cruising around nicely when all of a sudden then engine "clanked" a few times and stopped. We tried once to start again and it moved a little but then "froze". We thought we had perhaps thrown a rod. We were towed in (across the main channel and around some barges, but still listening to the football game of course) by the "AVEC" (Alton Volunteer Emergency Corps) who are great guys and gals, but I dont' want to make a habit of calling them if you know what I mean.

Well, we ran our spare motor (a 1968 650) the rest of the fall, but I finally got around to taking off the flywheel, removing the power head, and opening her up today.

The top 5 cylinders were fine and the psitons slid right out. But the bottom cylinder had these small - about 1/4 inch -cylindrical shaped things which were falling out of the spark plug hole, and it was tough to get out. When we did get it out - these little cylinders were all melted onto the piston and some actually embedded into the piston and cylinder wall - WOW! (See pics.)

I have since figured out that these appear to be the "bearings" (like ballberings but cylindrical) which go around the end of the piston which attaches to the crankshaft - somehow these little bearings must have popped off and then got sucked into the cylinder to do their damage. The rings were basically all gone and in chunks. The piston arm (rod) has alot of play on the shaft and is missing these little bearings.

Of course, my questions are

1. How? (there seemed to be a slight difference in the cylinders as far as amount of lube - but the top 5 pistons were sliding nicely when I took them out. Could a lean bottom carb somehow cuase this?)

2. Is this repairable, and if so, how would you go about fixing - this, at least to my untrained eye - seems to have been a good strong block - so if this type of damage is repairable by re-boring or otherwise repairing the cylinder wall and then getting a new piston and rings, etc. I guess it might be worth it. I would really like to try as this motor was our first real project and it was alot of fun for me and the family.

Any help from experienced merc guys and gals is greatly appreciated!
 

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coolguy147

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

well when i saw that first picture my heart dropped. i was ammazed that needle bearings melted to the piston and top of the cylinder

well lets start with a few questions?

you put stabil in fuel? how long do you let it sit for usually? did you fog it last season? when was the last time you did service on the engine, impeller and carbs and such.

how was the 5th cylinder down? since its runned by the same carb was it looking a little bad? about to break down too?

now when rereading your post you said that you got her to pee assuming to spit water and pump water in a good manner. how? water pump replacement

dont believe this motor has a thermostat so cut that out fo the question
 

coolguy147

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

one more describe your carb job? cleaning all passages? and blowing air throught them to clear them out? what were your low speed needles set at?
 

fergmerc

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

Thanks very much for the quick reply! I?ll try to answer as best I can.

Re: The impeller ? we did have a mech. replace the impeller before we ran it. It still didn?t pee at first, but we figured out that the hose from the water jacket was just clogged and after we unclogged that it seemed to cool fine.

Re: The carb job. We got three complete kits with new needles and gaskets in May, when we bought the motor. We removed and soaked the carbs and did blow air though them. The reason we did the carb job was that it was bogging pretty bad when we first got it ? no power. After we did the carb job it was much better ? but we did have to bend the tabs past the ? inch spec to get enough fuel in the bowl to get her to go. I thought if anything it was getting too much fuel.

We did try to use more oil than the recommended mix. But we also ran a little seafoam through it in beginning of the summer.

Re: the 5th cylinder ? it really did not seem too bad ? it slid out when I removed the crankshaft. I didn?t notice anything different in #5 from the top 4 when I inspected.

Re: the low speed setting ? I really don?t? remember where that needle was at ? I do remember that it did seem to idle on the high side.

As far as the fogging oil ? we got this motor in May ? so I doubt it was winterized last year. I did not fog it this spring. Thanks again for any ideas.
 

emckelvy

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

I'm afraid that block has had it! Those gouges are way deeper than any overbore could fix. You could have that cyl sleeved but I expect the cost would be prohibitive.

From your posting it doesn't sound like you've separated the #6 rod from the crank. I expect, with that much damage and spitting out bearings, that the #6 crankshaft journal is gonna be beat to death. Again, maybe it could be repaired but that would cost many $$$ at a crankshaft rebuilder.

Your best bet, if you want to resurrect this motor, is to look for a running or repairable powerhead. Check your local www.craigslist.org for lotsa motor deals or try www.ebaymotors.com

Since the damage was apparently limited to #6, I'd suggest that the most likely cause of the destruction would be bad crankshaft seals. Bad seals will allow water to be sucked right in from the bottom and #6 will suffer.

Checking the condition of the bottom bearing cap ball bearing and seals will tell you a lot.

HTH & G'luck...............ed

p.s. If this were a carb-related failure, #5 would also be damaged. There is no kind of idle mixture adjustment or carb failure that could cause only one cylinder to be damaged and leave the other untouched.
 

coolguy147

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

about the number 5 cylinder thats what i thought but you never know:eek:

yeah it would cost much more to fix the motor then what its really worth. plus you would have to get new seals. piston resleeving rod bearings etc. time wasted. the tedious work of breaking it in timing it syncing everything and such.
 

fergmerc

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

Guys: Thanks for the info and replys. I guess i will keep an eye out for a block or powerhead as the lower unit is still good. I really appeciate the expertise.

Too bad we couldn't save it. At least I got some cool pics though.
 

emckelvy

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

There's a seller on eBay right now who has a '68 100hp block in one auction, and the entire rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, etc) in another auction. Both auctions have a 'best offer' feature so you might give him a holler and see what he'll do for a package deal.

The seller claims the block is xclnt and the crank has one bad piston. You could likely salvage a few or more pistons/rods from the unhurt cyl's in your motor.

You might want to get a few more, detailed pics from them to make sure the description is accurate, before you make an offer.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-Mercury-1000-empty-block-excellent_W0QQitemZ350262068078

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968...k-rods-and-pistons-nice_W0QQitemZ170411989567


Worth a shot, anyway!

HTH & Happy New Year.............ed
 

fergmerc

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

Hey thanks for the heads up and happy new year to you also, Ed.
 

OldMercsRule

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

I would look fer a complete runner mesself.

Seattle n' Portland has quite a few real cheap inline4 n' 6 Merc engines, (as ol' Ed from Paulsbo knows).

I found a sweet 1969 1000 frankenmerc short shaft outa Portland a few years back fer $300.00. The short shafts are gettin' a wee bit less plentiful these days. Had ta give her a starter from a parts 650, n' a couple of new fuel lines, (I create alcohol resistent lines with new brass nipples on me silver blocks), n' a wirin' harness from a parts donor.

I found a fresh water virgin 1967 950 last year fer $400.00 boat engine n' trailer. Gave the boat away sold the trailer fer $350.00. all the engine needed was a trigger. Very nice old girl.

There are still lots of 1967 950s 1100s, (don't go older then 1967 or you'll get the point actuated CDI), which I don't like. There are even more 1968 n' 69 1000s and or 1250s, (the 950s, 1000s are 89.x cubic inch; the 1100 are 94.x cubic inch; the 1250 is 99.x cubic inch which is the same as all 1970 to 1988 inline6s that are even more plentiful here in God's country). I jus' bought two 1971 1150s fer $70.00 and $150.00, (the $150. purchase was boat engine n' trailer). Both engines have issues that maybe minor n' may not: time will tell. ;)

One month ago I beat ol' Ed to a sweet fresh water virgin that runs real good 1972 1150, (sooooo clean ya could eat yer dinner off the silver block), fer $200.00. The feller stuck the LU in forward when he changed the impeller.

I try not ta ever rebuild, ever since I did a 1976 1500 ouch :eek: ($$$$$$). N' I have had great luck pickin' up very nice engines, (fer me collection). I run a bunch of 'em n' they run very good!!!!

Hope that help's yer decision process. JR
 

fergmerc

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

As long as we are swapping stories, I also have had some decent luck finding old engines - again - some running some not - at auctions, etc. in Missouri and Illinois.

The 1968 1000 on this post here (which did only run one summer - but ran great) we got with controls and all for $300 - it was one of our most expensive old merc investments. My wife ("newoldmercgirl" on this fourm) bought a boat, motor and trailer for $90 2 months ago at an auction in Illinois - it had a 1964 1000 (I know, old ignition) that the auctioneer said was "junk" - well, my sons and I replaced the spark plug wires and put in a new starter solenoid, and cleaned the carbs and now it runs 5300 at WOT! The boat (1972 fabuglass trihull) had a tilt and trim on it that works great and we will probably sell - and an old mercury 18 gallon "cruising" tank we will probably use on our starcraft. The trailer and boat are all good- so I kind of say we got that motor for free.

A month or so ago - we bought a 1960 merc 800 "dockbuster" (direct reverse) for $30!, with some neat old controls - it does'nt run yet, but we are going to try to get it going ? mainly for the novelty of having a "dockbuster".

I also have 1960 merc 400 (45 hp) with controls that I got for $60. I have rebuilt the distributor and points but still haven't gotten a spark - but it has good compression so we are going to keep trying.

We also have our old reliable 1968 merc 650.

Here are a few pics of our "finds" and "boat shop" (formerly our garage).

Sorry to ramble, but we do get going on these old gems. Good luck in your part of the country.
 

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Texasmark

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Re: 1968 merc1000 cyl. damage - pics

You guys check my math, but 5100 for a tower is kinda low isn't it? I thought 5500 to 6000 was more of what it liked....looking at possible root cause for problem....lugging however with only one affected that probably isn't the issue.

Mark
 
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