testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

haulyard

haulyard

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anyone tell me how voltage needs to be applied on my 63 johnson model V4AL15E ,i know from previous threads that some require both to be charged and others require only one at a time .

reason i ask is wiring was cut at motor,and am having to fabricate my own ,and will have to use toggle switches for the shift wires..

and also can i apply 12 volts directly from my battery to the coil without harmfull effects? or does it need voltage regulator.

the condition of this motor is unbelievable,looking forward to see if it pushes my boat faster than my 85 70 hp
 
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gazza2007au

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Mar 9, 2007
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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

mate im not trying to offend u but take it to someone that knows what there doing another wire harness and battery u should be good to go also a 1963 75hp vs a 1985 70hp will more than likely give u the same performance it might even be less unless the older motor is a V4 why are u going with the older motor?
 
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F_R

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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

0Volts to anything is neutral
12V battery voltage to the green wire makes it go forward
12V to the blue wire makes it go backward
12V to both wires while running will break a clutch or drive shaft.
 
haulyard

haulyard

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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

gazza2007au said:
mate im not trying to offend u but take it to someone that knows what there doing another wire harness and battery u should be good to go also a 1963 75hp vs a 1985 70hp will more than likely give u the same performance it might even be less unless the older motor is a V4 why are u going with the older motor?
Click to expand...

i am a little offended by your comment but hey we all got our own two cents to put in(want your change) anyhow we all come to iboats for help if we all went to the boat shops and marinas or the "one who knows what he's doing"
there would be no need for iboats.

last i checked there are not any wiring harness available for a 1963 motor or any mechanics that will touch them , even iboats parts only go back to 1968

1963 V4 75 H.P. MODEL V4AL15E
 
haulyard

haulyard

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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

F_R said:
0Volts to anything is neutral
12V battery voltage to the green wire makes it go forward
12V to the blue wire makes it go backward
12V to both wires while running will break a clutch or drive shaft.
Click to expand...

check out this thread
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=352040&highlight=electric+shift

and here is one quote from the thread:

You have a hydro/electric shift in that engine. In forward gear no current flows to either wire. In neutral you should have 12 volts on the green wire, and in reverse you should have 12 volts on both the green and the blue wire.

so are you sure these shifts are different......

thanks for all replies
 
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Daviet

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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

I beleave you are working on a V4 engine with the small bullet lower unit, correct? If that is the case it is NOT a hydro-electric shift, just an electric shift. Trust F R, he would not give you the wrong information. I cannot get to a manual but I beleave F R is correct.
 
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tx1961whaler

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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

Look at the referenced thread again, the quote is from F_R, who does know the difference between a electra-matic and a hydro-electric gearcase. A 1963 will be an electra-matic, which is wired the way he indicated in this thread. Hydro-electric lower ends came about in the early 1970's, and only were around for a couple of years. There are also hydro-mechanical gearcases.
There are quite a few reasons not to use a toggle switch in place of the factory controls, but the factory controls are getting hard to find and are quite expensive. Use at you own risk.....
 
F

F_R

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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

haulyard said:
check out this thread
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=352040&highlight=electric+shift

and here is one quote from the thread:

You have a hydro/electric shift in that engine. In forward gear no current flows to either wire. In neutral you should have 12 volts on the green wire, and in reverse you should have 12 volts on both the green and the blue wire.

so are you sure these shifts are different......
Click to expand...

I am positively sure with not a doubt in my mind. That thread concerned a 1968 55hp. You said that you have a 1963 75hp. They are as different as night and day. I stand by what I said.

BTW, I am "one who knows". My credentials include being a full time outboard mechanic at an Evinrude dealership when both of those motors were made. I've seen and worked on more than a few of them.
 
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tx1961whaler

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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

F_R said:
They are as different as night and day.
Click to expand...

They are quite similar. They have a driveshaft on one end, and a prop on the other, with a water pump in between somewhere. They are also filled with oil. That's nearly identical ! :D :D :D
 
haulyard

haulyard

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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

thanks F=R and Daviet , i don't question anyones credentials , nor do i like mine questioned, i surf past threads and see different answers for similar motors , and i am just double checking before i go ahead with my wiring...

i know what i am doing is not advisable,but have heard that these electric shifts were a headache back when they were new.

i had a lark 40 with a toggle on the controls and never had a problem with bumping it accidently...

now with my shift questions answered (THANKS)How about ya all taking a stab at my question concerning tha automotive type coil that is mounted on back of motor..
can i run a wire direct from battery to coil?
i have tested this way and get great spark,but am concerned about overheating the coil...
 
F

F_R

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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

haulyard said:
thanks F=R and Daviet , i don't question anyones credentials , nor do i like mine questioned, i surf past threads and see different answers for similar motors , and i am just double checking before i go ahead with my wiring...

i know what i am doing is not advisable,but have heard that these electric shifts were a headache back when they were new.

i had a lark 40 with a toggle on the controls and never had a problem with bumping it accidently...

now with my shift questions answered (THANKS)How about ya all taking a stab at my question concerning tha automotive type coil that is mounted on back of motor..
can i run a wire direct from battery to coil?
i have tested this way and get great spark,but am concerned about overheating the coil...
Click to expand...

And the answer is--depends. If it is the original coil, no. It requires a one ohm resistance wire in series, part number 378350. But if somebody has replaced the coil with something else, who knows what they put in there?

As for the electric shifts being a headache when new, I disagree. Like I say, I was there when they were new, and they were a good system. It is now that they are old and parts are hard to find and super expensive, and nobody knows how to work on them, or are afraid to work on them, that they are a headache. If it were not for that, I would choose the electric shift over the dog clutch any day. Just my 2c though.
 
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seahorse5

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4,698
Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

Listen to F_R, he speaks the truth and has the knowledge that you need.

It is very easy to get incorrect information on forums as many folks may sound like experts and maybe they are on their own motors, but not on different models or different years.

Incorrect info may mean expensive mistakes. One year difference or a mid-year change can mean a completely different system or test procedure, and you need someone who knows the differences.
 
haulyard

haulyard

Seaman
Joined
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Messages
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Re: testing electric shift on 1963 75 hp

F_R said:
And the answer is--depends. If it is the original coil, no. It requires a one ohm resistance wire in series, part number 378350. But if somebody has replaced the coil with something else, who knows what they put in there?

As for the electric shifts being a headache when new, I disagree. Like I say, I was there when they were new, and they were a good system. It is now that they are old and parts are hard to find and super expensive, and nobody knows how to work on them, or are afraid to work on them, that they are a headache. If it were not for that, I would choose the electric shift over the dog clutch any day. Just my 2c though.
Click to expand...

the resistance wire is there ,this is a complete motor -control box.....
thanks f_r with your input and a wiring diagram willieclay sent i can begin work as time allows. not sure if it will be this year,but whenever i complete the motor i will bump this thread back to the top(with a link to a video)
 
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