90 hp timing

bbfrs1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 8, 2009
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I was wondering if my '90 90 hp should be at tdc at idle. I thought I read in another thread that it was, but now I can't find that thread. The reason is that I set my timing at 30 btdc, then checked it at idle and it was about an inch before the mark. So it would be between the 32 and the tdc marks. If this is normal than I can rule out timing, and precede to a carb rebuild.
 

bbfrs1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 8, 2009
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86
Re: 90 hp timing

I did set it at wot at 30 deg btdc as per directions from a previous post. I quess my question is, if it is good at wot it doesn't matter what it is at idle.
 

foodfisher

Captain
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Feb 18, 2009
Messages
3,756
Re: 90 hp timing

You're not getting a whole lot of replies so here goes mine. Set the timing at 28* btdc at idle. It should give you 30* at WOT. If I have it right, you should be good to go. Fine tune thereafter.
 

bbfrs1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 8, 2009
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86
Re: 90 hp timing

Right now it is set at 30 btdc at wot. At idle I am not even at tdc. Maybe I am just overthinking this. Everytime I try to compare these outboards to a truck I get burned. I will just take everyones advice from previous threads and leave it at 30 deg btdc.
 

moparman

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Oct 14, 2008
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314
Re: 90 hp timing

what kind of problem are you having to make you think its timing or carb issues?
 

bbfrs1

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Re: 90 hp timing

It is very very slow to plane. So I've checked everything, I have spark, compression, my fuel is the problem. After trying to fine tune the carbs and timing, it hasn't changed anything, but I did get my rpms up to about 4800. The carbs cough, seem to flood out then it dies. When it does stay running I have to barely give it fuel and sortof get some fuel out of the carbs or it will just die again. The carbs also drool, after running it the carbs are wet w/fuel and there is fuel in the bottom of the air box.

I've tried running it lean, tried rich and it is all the same. But when it does start going it runs good but I can only get about 4800 rpm. All the spark plugs however look fairly good, a nice golden brown w/ a few black spots.

So Im going to have to rebuild the carbs I believe. I have to wait awhile because this boat is my only acces to my whitetail spot. So it has to at least stay running long enough for me to fill my tags.
 

Frank Acampora

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Jan 19, 2007
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12,004
Re: 90 hp timing

Get a manual or search past posts on synchronizing carbs and timing. This is important for proper performance and MUST be done correctly. If properly set and synchronized, if you set the timing to 28 or 30 degrees BTDC at WOT, then the idle timing should be close to but not necessarily at 0 degrees. It usually varies approximately between +2 and -2 degrees but it could be more depending upon engine condition.

A good running engine with properly set carbs, good compression, and properly synchronized will definitely fall between +2 and -2 at idle.

Unless it is excessive, gas in the airbox does not necessarily mean bad carbs. The reeds "spit" back fuel with each stroke and the airbox is designed to capture this spit back and recycle it to the bottom of the manifold. However, it would not hurt to remove the carbs and check the reeds for bent, broken, or missing petals.

There is also a condition of wet flooding due to a perforated or torn fuel pump diaphragm. This tends to happen more at low speed. SO: replacing the diaphragm and gasket is a task you should perform routinely. 5 bucks will save a lot of aggravation.

As a matter of course, you should also check the compression. This is the best indicator of engine condition. You said you did but did not give numbers.

4800 rpm is within the operating range of that engine, although on the low side of the recommendation. Unless it previously ran faster, indicating a recent problem, a prop change to 2 inches less pitch will get you to about 52-5300 and a faster plane time.
 

bbfrs1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 8, 2009
Messages
86
Re: 90 hp timing

Well I took Frank's advice and rechecked my compression. 2 months ago they were all at 125#, now they went 120, 90, 120. I pulled the head and found my #1's rings have came apart. The cylinder wall scored pretty bad, aswell as the head. I now know why I couldn't get this thing to run very good.

Because my compression was low to start with, I guess I'm looking at a total rebuild. Trust me I'm very excited about this. My wife is even happier. :D
 
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