16' aluminum sylvan sportster project! new pics 11-12
Here's the boat I've started restoring. I'm trying to do a good job and
have it last without sinking too much into it.
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So far I've torn out the floor and stripped off almost all the paint. I'm hoping
to get it painted before it gets too cold. My paint is supposed to arrive tomorrow but it will be next week before I can paint.
I think next time I'll just work more and buy what I want instead of working on a project, everything cost more then you expect and takes longer than you expect and in the end you have a boat that you can't even recoup the cost of your materials much less your labor. Are there any others into a resto
wishing they had just bought a boat in good shape?
Last edited by bryanwess2000 : November 12th, 2009 at 07:33 PM.
Reason: new pics
"Are there any others into a resto wishing they had just bought a boat in good shape?"
Not me. I am very particular and probably would not be satisfied with someone else's work. The only way to satisfy that need would be to buy a new one. Us DIY folks know what we did under the paint, deck and "hood."
If it did not say Sylvan on the outside it would pass for a Starcraft? Exact same fabrication to my eye.
...I think next time I'll just work more and buy what I want instead of working on a project, everything cost more then you expect and takes longer than you expect and in the end you have a boat that you can't even recoup the cost of your materials much less your labor. Are there any others into a resto
wishing they had just bought a boat in good shape?
I hear your pain...
I have spent alot of time in the race car arena, and there are a few basic truths that hold for all motorized toys..
They are worth less than 1/2 to a 1/3 of what you have in them.
Buying one "Done" is cheaper than doing one yourself...
However, truths not withstanding,
There are those of us who will always do it ourselves...
We count the increased cost as personal insurance....
I think next time I'll just work more and buy what I want instead of working on a project, everything cost more then you expect and takes longer than you expect and in the end you have a boat that you can't even recoup the cost of your materials much less your labor. Are there any others into a resto
wishing they had just bought a boat in good shape?
When I actually started doing the detailed math for restoring my two planned boat projects, it became clear that it would simply be throwing money away. The costs to "restore" a boat cannot be recovered and in many cases, far exceeds the cost of a similar used boat in excellent condition that needs no restoration. Nothing like spending $5,000 in order to get a boat that's only worth $3,500 or less!
So, I sold both project boats and purchased a fully working boat that basically only needs cosmetics. Far cheaper and faster in the long run. And I can actually USE the boat while deciding what next to do with it... if anything.
I sold my Jupiter for $2100. I think that pretty well covered what I had in it plus accounting for the 5 enjoyable years of usage I got out of it. I think you can do a little better on tinnies than you can on glass boats since you don't have to drop so much coin on fiberglassing materials.
I sold my Jupiter for $2100. I think that pretty well covered what I had in it plus accounting for the 5 enjoyable years of usage I got out of it. I think you can do a little better on tinnies than you can on glass boats since you don't have to drop so much coin on fiberglassing materials.
Exactly!
The Starcrafters on this forum made that very clear.... which is why the replacement boat I bought is a tin Sea Nymph Fishing Machine! Works GREAT! http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=360261
Couldn't get the timing right on a Starcraft... but I did go with tin!
I think if I buy another tinny it will have to have the original paint intact so
I can paint right over it. I didn't realize the cost, time and health hazards of
stripping a boat and repainting with zincrom primer. The boat should look almost new when I finish so I guess I should quit complaining. It should serve it's purpose well, a multispecies fish and ski that can be taken to the gulf on
occasion for near shore fishing. It's just that every time I work on it I wish
it was a 18' or larger. Anyway I'll keep this thread updated with my progress.
Thanks for looking!
Well - I am working on my 18' Holiday and still think of the 20' that I turned down - I am sure it is still sitting next to that garage in Syracuse NY...!
The 18' is twice the boat that my 16' Nassau was though.
As far as getting your money back - whelp - its a hobby as much as it is anything for me. I am trying to get a "like new" 18' Holiday done for less than $2500 - for that amount one would get a dying glass boat - plus it should have some 60's cool to it. It is alot of work though!
The 18' is twice the boat that my 16' Nassau was though.
I couldn't agree more. My SS is more substantial in every dimension than my Jupiter was. My wife was like "that's a BIG boat". I need to buy a new bigger step ladder because I'm going to kill myself getting in an out of this one all winter
Twofootitis is absolutely incurable. Many through obtaining larger boats have thought they were cured, but relapse is inevitable. I'm currently in remission due to a recent boat order.
I'm glad I'm getting a boat in need of some work...since I'll be able to completely customize it according to my specific needs.
If you're smart about it you can make money or break even dealing with aluminum boats...but I will be keeping mine forever...not a concern. I am paying $1000 for a 16' Starcraft SS with decent trailer and running 80hp outboard. This package could sell for more- the guy just doesn't want to winterize it and has no place for storage.
To get back on topic, that sylvan already looks fantastic. I can imagine it will be a real show-stopper when you are finished with the restore. Nice work bryanwess2000!
I'm going to try to keep up with costs and time and update as I go.
so far realized and estimated costs.
project boat and trailer -$600 plus 8hr drive round trip
1977 850 mercury outboard -$500
1989 8hp mariner -$400
trolling motor -$350
low profile 12gal gas tank -$60
transom( plywood, glue, ss hardware)-$100
gluvit epoxy for transom and floor 2gal-$200
flooring(plywood, ss screws or rivets)-$100-200
paint stripper and plastic -$75
zincrom primer 6 cans -$60
benjamin moore 2 part epoxy paint -$80
benjamin moore 2 part urethane paint-$100
paint supplies( rollers, brushes,etc.) -$75
sand paper -$25
solvents -$50
rivets -$50
carpet and adhesive -$250
seats and pedestels -$400-600
upholstery -?
I'm going to try to keep up with costs and time and update as I go.
so far realized and estimated costs.
project boat and trailer -$600 plus 8hr drive round trip
1977 850 mercury outboard -$500
1989 8hp mariner -$400
trolling motor -$350
low profile 12gal gas tank -$60
transom( plywood, glue, ss hardware)-$100
gluvit epoxy for transom and floor 2gal-$200
flooring(plywood, ss screws or rivets)-$100-200
paint stripper and plastic -$75
zincrom primer 6 cans -$60
benjamin moore 2 part epoxy paint -$80
benjamin moore 2 part urethane paint-$100
paint supplies( rollers, brushes,etc.) -$75
sand paper -$25
solvents -$50
rivets -$50
carpet and adhesive -$250
seats and pedestels -$400-600
upholstery -?
Looks like about $3,800 for your estimate thus far. Lotta bux!
Only comment is you don't need that much Gluvit. I think a number of members here have found a quart will do ya.
The quart size can is actually two pounds of gluvit....a touch more than 1/2 full in a quart can.
Once it is mixed it is about as thick as latex paint and you only need to do the seams and rivets...... one can will do you boat just fine.
It is best to do your gluvit application in stages. Tilt the boat so the gluvit flows into the seams......24 hrs later tilt it the other way and do the other side.
__________________ "When you see yourself doing something badly and nobody’s bothering to tell you anymore, that’s a very bad place to be. Your critics are your ones telling you they still love you and care." Randy Pausch 1960-2008 The Last Lecture
I'm using the gluvit for the floors and used it for the transom since it
soaks in so well.
Question: What is the name of the type of rivet used on the hull
and where can I buy some? I checked at a local fastenal but all they had
were blind rivets. I have a few loose rivets to replace and some I drilled out
on the sides where the rub rails were.
I'm going to try to keep up with costs and
paint stripper and plastic -$75
zincrom primer 6 cans -$60
benjamin moore 2 part epoxy paint -$80
benjamin moore 2 part urethane paint-$100
paint supplies( rollers, brushes,etc.) -$75
sand paper -$25
solvents -$50
rivets -$50
-?
Did you just strip the whole thing with the "dizzy goo"? I did the inside of the H-Day but the hull seems daunting - mainly because I have not figured out how to flip the beast - I am getting a blasting quote from a local guy...
I used aircraft stripper and yes I flipped it over to do the bottom.
I also plan on flipping it when I paint it. Mine is easy to get on and off because of the roller trailer and it doesn't weigh much so I can flip it by myself.
I used aircraft stripper and yes I flipped it over to do the bottom.
I also plan on flipping it when I paint it. Mine is easy to get on and off because of the roller trailer and it doesn't weigh much so I can flip it by myself.
Thanks - I might just get the kids soccer team over to flip it!
Want to concur with Bob-VT about amount of gluvit. My 15 foot Jet took just 2/3 the small "1 qt" can. And doing the tipping of the boat for each side is a good idea. In about an hour it will begin gelling to much to be of any use. Did mine in two stages (truth, I ran out of stuff before I finished and waited for curing of first app. before finishing). In my experience it will take more than 24 hours for it to cure well enough to not be sticky at about 65 degrees. And like they say on the can it is corrosive. I did mine outside and still believe that breathing the fumes affected my mouth. Have not seen anybody else mention that and one person said he detected no fumes at all. May be it was because I was under a closed in bow with areas needing the Gluvit for about 20 minutes. My garage had an odor for a few days after application. I painted some small corrosion spots with it as well.
Be careful not to clog your drain holes (timbers) with Gluvit. It will run a bit. Tipping may eliminate that concern.
Got my rivets set on the sides where the rub rails were. It wasn't too bad of a job, it took about 2 hours total including practicing on some spare aluminum.
The results look like it came that way from the factory. I ended up useing
3/16 an470 solid aluminum soft rivets made from 1100 series aluminum since I
didn't know how hard the hardened rivets would be to set. It only cost me
$13.00 for .25lbs of rivets, about 100, plus a rivet set and shipping. I'm going to set any loose ones I find tomorrow then I should be ready to paint Tues.
if my paint comes in. I'll post more pics once I finish the painting.
16' aluminum sylvan sportster project! new pics 11-12
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