Modern Flush Port Install on an Antique Evinrude?

peterskeeter · #1 October 27th, 2009, 12:01 AM

Hey all, I did some searching and haven't come up with much. I have a 1975 25HP 'Rude and as we all know, flushing leaves few options. I do have a set of rectangle shaped flush muffs, when bungey corded around the lower unit, they do provide a flushing capability but a watchful eye must kept on the motor when running in case it isn't on just right. After seeing my friend's 2007 YAMAHA with a flush port that goes directly into the block, I got an idea! Has anyone accessed the block directly for flushing like the new motors? I've added a modern pisser to this engine fairly easy. Adding a port would be similar I would think. Has anyone did this?

1946Zephyr · #2 October 27th, 2009, 12:34 AM

I found it much better to use a barrel

peterskeeter · #3 October 27th, 2009, 12:41 AM

The barrel does work BUT I'd rather smell some premix when I listen to her pur!

Besides, the barrel fills with oil, the water gets warm and slushes around. You have to fill it then dump it, I just don't like the barrel thing

R.Johnson · #4 October 27th, 2009, 01:04 AM

Take the water intake plate above the cavitation plate. Use it as a pattern to cut one out of sheet metal. Soft solder on a female garden hose connector, and you have it.Probably cost less than a dollar.

peterskeeter · #5 October 27th, 2009, 01:30 AM

I've thought about modifying that plate in a way similar to that. I like your idea and have thought about going that route, just don't want anything that sticks out that would get knocked off by accident. I may try that route or try to tap into the cooling jacket in the block.

tashasdaddy · #6 October 27th, 2009, 07:56 AM

may just ruin a good motor.

lindy46 · #7 October 27th, 2009, 09:22 AM

Antique!!

That motor is barely broken in

R.Johnson · #8 October 27th, 2009, 09:26 AM

How would this ruin a motor? I have been using this method for year's on any small engine with the plate. The adapter is held on with 2 screw's just like the original plate. It supplies more water than the engine will ever need, and it does'nt need a gasket.If you take the plate off, you will find a direct line to the wate pump. If you want to damage an engine, use the old spring loaded adapter. I think it was made by Tempo. That thing just waited for you to turn your back.

yorab · #9 October 27th, 2009, 11:55 AM

Sounds like RJohnson only uses the plate for flushing, then replaces with the original plate for open water use. No chance of getting "knocked off by accident". I think it's a great idea.

peterskeeter · #10 October 27th, 2009, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lindy46

Antique!!

That motor is barely broken in

You're right about that, just restored this motor to brand new condition, replaced everything! Full rebuild with new pistons, rings, head, all ignition components, rebuilt carb, water pump, starter, and prop! I love the look on people's face at the launch when she fires right up

Anyway, I am thinking about drilling and tapping a hole into a fabricated plate in which I can thread in a tube which will have a female garden hose adapter on one end. This way nothing sticks out and attaching my flusher to the engine is pretty simple. I'll just have to simply screw in the homemade adapter into my fabricated plate and attach the garden hose. Will try as soon as I get some time.

peterskeeter · #11 October 27th, 2009, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tashasdaddy

may just ruin a good motor.

Shouldn't ruin the motor at all. Like I mentioned earlier, I have actually attached and bungey corded tightly a rectangular flush muff to the plate and it works. However, it is very hard to get just the right seal so she doesn't stop pissin'

jay_merrill · #12 October 27th, 2009, 06:46 PM

There is a very simple solution to this. The standard rectangular rubber muffs don't work very well, because they don't fit on the gearbox assembly very well. In particular, thay are too wide.

Take a hacksaw, or other suitable saw, and cut the rubber muffs along the long dimension. Take enough off, so that the muffs will rest on the cavitation plate, along the side that was cut. When in use, they are going to leak quite a bit, but placing the cut edge against the cavitation helps with that.

When running the motor, turn the water pressure up high enough to insure a good flow and a supply that is sufficient to overcome the leakage. Your motor will cool just fine. I did this in order to run a pair of 1958 ERude Bigtwins off of one hose, with a Y splitter and two modified muffs. Other than the excess water from leakage. this system works very well and doesn't cost a dime.

°¿°

peterskeeter · #13 October 27th, 2009, 07:34 PM

That's an idea I can try Jay. I've always found it hard to get a good seal, I may try some rectangular muff modification. I see you're from New Orleans. What part? I'm from Chalmette myself, but now live in Ponchatoula. Still do alot of fishing back home though, the Hopedale/Delacroix area is hard to beat....

jay_merrill · #14 October 27th, 2009, 10:47 PM

Da best bank!

°¿°

1946Zephyr · #15 October 28th, 2009, 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterskeeter

The barrel does work BUT I'd rather smell some premix when I listen to her pur!

Besides, the barrel fills with oil, the water gets warm and slushes around. You have to fill it then dump it, I just don't like the barrel thing

Ahhhhhh, I've used barrels for years. You can still get a good whiff of the premix

The only pita is lifting the motor over the brim. LOL I never lifted bigger than a 40hp. I never liked earmuffs much, not unless it's for the newer motors. The newer motors from the '70's on took the muffs better. Yours is like the older 18's and was discontinued a year later. I myself own a 1986 25 but it's a completely different design that would accomodate the muffs fine.