1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

So I bought a boat from a friend knowing that the motor was stuck in forward. He thought the shop he brought it to for an estimate said it was a coil. The guy at the shop can't remember. So.... I am here to seek some answers to a few things.

The motor is a 55hp Johnson model TRL-10R, looks great and has low hours. It sat for some time before my friend got it. He had the carbs cleaned, a tuneup done. He did get it to fire up once when he had it, then it sat for 2 more years.

First off, the internal engine wiring harness is in bad shape. Cracking, fraying, corroded... So after checking all the connections from the console to the battery I tried to start it up. It just pops and then wont do anything after that until I disconnect the battery and reconnect... then another POP!. I am sure it is a bad wire/missing ground/something.. does anyone have any ideas?

Second, as a result of the wiring harness I am wondering if that is why it wont shift. I haven't tested the wires yet(a rookie at this and need to get the tools for that).

In the end, I like the boat and motor and would like to make this a project.

So I am thinking about ordering a new coil, wiring harness and an amplifier cd pack. Just to get things top notch.

Are these parts something worth while for me and could I do it myself?

Thanks much

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

gilbre said:

So I bought a boat from a friend knowing that the motor was stuck in forward. He thought the shop he brought it to for an estimate said it was a coil. The guy at the shop can't remember. So.... I am here to seek some answers to a few things.

The motor is a 55hp Johnson model TRL-10R, looks great and has low hours. It sat for some time before my friend got it. He had the carbs cleaned, a tuneup done. He did get it to fire up once when he had it, then it sat for 2 more years.

First off, the internal engine wiring harness is in bad shape. Cracking, fraying, corroded... So after checking all the connections from the console to the battery I tried to start it up. It just pops and then wont do anything after that until I disconnect the battery and reconnect... then another POP!. I am sure it is a bad wire/missing ground/something.. does anyone have any ideas?

Second, as a result of the wiring harness I am wondering if that is why it wont shift. I haven't tested the wires yet(a rookie at this and need to get the tools for that).

In the end, I like the boat and motor and would like to make this a project.

So I am thinking about ordering a new coil, wiring harness and an amplifier cd pack. Just to get things top notch.

Are these parts something worth while for me and could I do it myself?

Thanks much

Click to expand...

Better slow down there and evaluate the whole thing before buying expensive parts.

1. I don't know why it won't start. That will take some serious troubleshooting.

2. It is absolutely essential that the wiring be first class. If it isn't, you will be dumping $$ into rectifiers and amplifiers from now on. Do not make more attempts at starting it until the electrical system is sound, for the same reason.

3. It will ALWAYS be in forward gear if it isn't running. Even if running, it will default to forward gear if there is a defect in the wires or SHIFT SWITCH, or LOWER UNIT. Those items in caps are outrageously expensive. Shift switch is $400 if you can even find one.

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

Thanks for the input. I appreciate any help I can get on this. I know the mechanic who initially looked at this said he would give me the rundown on what is wrong with it for $90. Which seems worth it.

If I were to try to trouble shoot the shift switch, how do I go about doing that? I did find a website with parts for the shift switch and a new complete package(for $360/getting a little spendy).

I am guessing and hoping the wiring is the culprit. Most of the other parts check out ok and the wiring from the console to the motor and battery is solid. The blue and green wires going to the lower unit are totally corroded and fraying along with several other wires. I figured that would be a good place to start is to replace the internal wiring and go from there. The amplifier wires for it are totally shot as well.

Also, I havent checked the grease in the lower unit but I dont think that will be as key as getting the old dog to start.

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

Alrighty, so I had the motor looked at today. The shop got the motor firing up fine.. they said the harness should be replaced. So I ordered that and will take care of that.

However, N and R still do not engage. He said after draining and filling the Type C lube, when he revved it up a bit and tried to switch it to Neutral it sounded like it wanted to switch, but just wouldnt. I dont know if they checked the voltage on the blue/green wires in the lower until, but I will ask him later tonight. If the lower unit isnt getting the proper voltage, could that be the problem???

Does anyone have any other ideas? Suggestions?

Happy it at least fires up!

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

You have a hydro/electric shift in that engine. In forward gear no current flows to either wire. In neutral you should have 12 volts on the green wire, and in reverse you should have 12 volts on both the green and the blue wire. The weakest link in that system is the wiring insulation as you've already noticed on the engine but you have a wire harness going through the exhaust housing to the gear case that is equally old and likely falling apart as well. Those things were pretty expensive the last time I priced one and that was many years ago. In the gear case assembly itself you have two solenoids activated by those wires which close valves in a pump to build up hydraulic pressure which pushes the shift clutch out of forward, then into reverse gear. All of that stuff works slick when it works but is expensive to buy these days if it fails. It usually works pretty well though if the unit has the correct oil in it. You say Type C but that hasn't been available for many years now, having been replaced by Premium Blend. It's a thinner oil than the standard stuff but that's what it takes for the oil pump to do its thing. If all of that is OK in the gear case I'd bet on the switch in the gear box. Johnson had a roller switch that was progressively activated as the throttle/gearshift arm was advanced. It was a bit haphazard when new and would wear and get out of adjustment fairly easy. You may be lucky enough to simply make some adjustment in the box to make it work. At any rate, good luck with it. It's a pretty decent running engine when it's right.

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

I forgot to add that they said the shift switch is fine.

Boatdood- I meant Premium Blend lube. I said Type C only because I read it on here a few times

Since I am a motor rookie, can you explain how I would try to adjust the roller switch in the gear box?

How would I go about testing the solenoids? I am sure it is easy, but don't really know the steps.

I found the internal wiring harness for the motor for $140 online. I can probably get that in myself. As far as the wiring going through the exhaust housing, where would I even start to check that and find the part????

Thanks much!!!!

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

gilbre said:

I forgot to add that they said the shift switch is fine.

Boatdood- I meant Premium Blend lube. I said Type C only because I read it on here a few times

Since I am a motor rookie, can you explain how I would try to adjust the roller switch in the gear box?

How would I go about testing the solenoids? I am sure it is easy, but don't really know the steps.

I found the internal wiring harness for the motor for $140 online. I can probably get that in myself. As far as the wiring going through the exhaust housing, where would I even start to check that and find the part????

Thanks much!!!!

Click to expand...

Exploded view and all the part numbers and prices at http://shop.evinrude.com/

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

According to my manual, here's two tests that will determine if your shift solenoids are electrically sound:

1. Check continuity of solenoids. At connections on starboard side of motor. Connect ohmmeter between blue lead and ground and then between green lead and ground. Meter should indicate five to six ohms resistance on low ohm scale.

2. Neutral solenoid - connect low reading D.C. ammeter between green leads. With shift in neutral position and key on, ammeter should read 1.5 - 2.0 amps for 10 min. If reading is high or low - solenoid should be replaced.
Reverse solenoid - repeat above procedure between blue leads.

I recently pulled my lower end off and found the solenoids were gummy. Once I cleaned them and flushed the lower end out, the problem I was having was gone.

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

witenite0560 said:

According to my manual, here's two tests that will determine if your shift solenoids are electrically sound:

1. Check continuity of solenoids. At connections on starboard side of motor. Connect ohmmeter between blue lead and ground and then between green lead and ground. Meter should indicate five to six ohms resistance on low ohm scale.

2. Neutral solenoid - connect low reading D.C. ammeter between green leads. With shift in neutral position and key on, ammeter should read 1.5 - 2.0 amps for 10 min. If reading is high or low - solenoid should be replaced.
Reverse solenoid - repeat above procedure between blue leads.

I recently pulled my lower end off and found the solenoids were gummy. Once I cleaned them and flushed the lower end out, the problem I was having was gone.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I will try this out as soon as I can. The one interesting thing is that he said after refilling with Premium Blend is "sounded" like it wanted to shift. So that makes me wonder.... I will try this out. Thanks

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

The items in the gearcase are solenoids, not coils. The lower solenoid is no longer available (NLA). The wiring harness in the midsection is NLA. The distributor and rotor for the engine are "dealer direct" (DD) items, which means that, unless you get very lucky and find a dealer who has them, they are NLA items. The stator is also a DD item. The amplifier is available, but costs $343.

As previously stated, you must completely rewire this engine, or you are going to have quite a few problems. You are also going to have to go through each system to see what works and what doesn't. Chances are that the process of doing this and fixing whatever you find wrong, will cost a great deal more than the motor is worth, especially if you have to have someone else do the work.

With a lot of determination and ingenuity, you might turn this motor into a nice engine. The question is whether or not the effort is worth it. I can't answer that for you, but walk into this effort with your eyes wide open.

As a start, the best thing that you can do, is to purchase a factory service manual. You may find one here at iboats, or you can try other internet resources. Don't waste your time with aftermarket manuals or bootleg manuals on CD - they aren't worth the money and won't give you the information that you need. Once you are equipped with the right manual for your specific engine, you can begin the troubleshooting process.

Keep in touch and let us know how you are making out.



???

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

for this model u need the engine started and running to shift it between gears and out of gear

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

Here is a small update. I haven't had a chance to post yet since I picked up my motor yesterday. The guy who looked at it said a lot of the internal wires going to the engine components from the harness looked ok. The internal wire harness is in bad shape, but the blue/green wires were applying proper voltage.

He reconnected a few wires and the ignition fires up the motor now the instant you turn the key. So that is great. He said he was shocked that it fired up so well.

The compression and spark was fantastic.

The mechanic basically said it isn't even really worth getting the lower unit fixed.. just use a trolling motor to get in out of boat launches and use this motor until it needs to be replaced. And most importantly, start it CAREFULLY!! I also put in an email to Twin City Outboard to see if they have a lower unit or if they run accross one to let me know. Found 1 identical motor on craigslist for $450 and the lower unit works(allegedly).. That may be an option too... just see if they will part it out.

I really appreciate all of your input... I may check out the solenoids tomorrow and see what i can see!

thanks

Re: 1968 Johnson stuck in forward/wiring

send these folks an email or phone call.
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