[Azonic]

I have seen several aluminum rebuilds and have learned alot about putting in the decks.

Sealing them and such.

I have also thought about glassing in the floor.

Is that a viable option?

How do you make the transfer from wood/glass to aluminum?

Thanks

[Bob_VT]

You can apply fiberglass to the deck and as far as the transition..... you can cut it close to have a tight fit but people do not seal them up. The plywood is usually riveted/or screwed down to aluminum stringers.

[Azonic]

Yeah, I am going to go back with rivets, as that is what is there now.

And I like the idea of a glassed deck (i think) but did not know if you seal her clean to the hull or just up to the edge and stop.

I am not sure why you would glass it at all if you did not seal her clean to the hull.

You will get the water running down the edge of the deck and hull and introduce water anyway. Is it not better to seal the deck like a cap and use a good bilge pump and vent?


So what am I missing in the concept?

[Knightgang]

Glass the deck mearly to protect the wood from premature water damage... Glass both sides and seal the wood...

[ezmobee]

I think the recommended process is to epoxy resin the bottom, resin and glass the tops. But Azonic brings up a good point, what do you do to protect the edges beyond just a simple coating of epoxy?

[Azonic]

I have seen where resin or sealer is applied to the bottom and side (and all joints) then installed. Either sealed again top side or glassed to the edge...

I know carpet is a no no...

I hope to get some room in my shop this weekend, and pull my boat in and start the work...

tear down, planning is 50% done (theory portion) then I need to do real world size cardboard templates of everything. Then the floors come up, hull cleaned, sealed, repainted, then floor.

I just want to wrap my head around this whole glass no glass flooring.

[Azonic]

Originally Posted by ezmobee

....But Azonic brings up a good point, what do you do to protect the edges beyond just a simple coating of epoxy?

I look at it as the work of glassing the top is way overkill if you just have resin on the sides and bottom, and allow water flow to those locations.

[ezmobee]

I agree. I guess you'd pretty much have to glass the edges prior to installing the deck pieces in the boat. The one thing that glassing the top after installing the deck into the boat does indeed do is completely seal all of your fastener holes. I'm really starting to think I'm not going to glass anything. Just coat with epoxy resin as best I can and then Durabak (or similar) it. I keep my boat covered or in my garage a large majority of the time and I'm thinking even unprotected deck wood would last a pretty good while for me.

[Azonic]

I want to protect mine in someway...
However I agree. treated lumber would last a long time, even un protected.
Aleast my deck has!

I was originally thinking about a good outdoor paint for the bottom and sides.
then a good epoxy or resin to fill the deck fastners and any accesories mounted to the floor, and add a nice fresh coat of outdoor/concrete paint to the deck...

Toss in some play sand for traction and call it a new deck?

With that said...

my cabin cruiser has a full on fiberglass floor with a nice little traction pattern in it... however, duplicating that would require glassing the whole deck and up the sides of the aluminum skin...

Still a mystery of what to do ....

[ezmobee]

Don't use treated lumber anywhere near aluminum.

Concrete paint will be too brittle for this application. However, a good porch and floor paint should work.

[Azonic]

so you were thinking the new composite decking?

I can see the brittle thing too..

I have some very good outdoor "grey" paint that is for wood.

Can't see why that would not work...??

the one major issue I have is the things fastened to the deck..

Center console, seats, cooler mounts, etc....

Seal those hose where screws go through, protect the underside of the material used to make those items, and prevent a path of water striaght to the hard work I just did!??!

[coolbikeguy]

seal all 6 surfaces .. top,bottom and 4 edges. then wrap the edges with glass and the top with glass .... done thats how im going to do it. the glass on the top is just to add a little extra strength. the epoxy sealed bottom will not soak up water.

[North Beach]

Guys the fiberglas adds not only waterproofing, but strength. If you don't want to be re-flooring that boat in a short time, spend the little extra and do one ply of glass re-inforced epoxy resin on the top. This will also protect the wood from misc damage from equipment droppage, sharp edges, etc.

Not tryin to flame anyone here, but folks are always tryin to re-invent the wheel on this subject. For the money, the best approach would be 1/2" marine grade douglas fir (5 ply) made with the highest grade waterproof glue. Epoxy resin bottom and sides with at least one coat, two or three if you can, and one ply of glass mat and epoxy resin with another coat of epoxy resin over that. Then you can paint, vinyl, whatever. With this approach you have strength, not too much weight, and you won't be taking it all up in a couple of years.

I just picked the LL up at the boat mechanic's today. 5 mins into the trip home and downpour. Everything in the boat was totally saturated by the time i got it home and I'm not worried about my deck one bit.

Also the aluminum will flex too much to try and glass up and onto the sides. End your mat at the edge and it's done.

JMHO

[Greendiver]

I am exactly in the same boat! (thank you, thank you! get it? boat!?)

I wrestled with this one for a bit and then followed what NB suggests above, as well as others.

My deck is now riveted down. I used 3/4" and sealed the bottoms and sides really well with epoxy resin and intend to layer the top with mat and more resin. I have no concerns now about the durability of this deck.