I am restoring a late 70s Crestliner Nordsman II. It is an all aluminum boat and I am using aviation stripper to strip a section of the hull that is about 24 feet by two and a half feet of really ugly brown, yellow and black paint.
I wonder if baking powder blasting would be faster and what does it cost per square feet. Is baking powder easier on aluminum than sand? That is, can it be used? Or what does your wisdom suggest in getting all this crap off the hull fast and with the least amount of expense?
Powercoat Specialty or something like that in greenville can do it in a couple hours for you. Probably around 100-150 bucks for the whole hull and then you can go with what ever color you like.
I thought of having the powercoat an alum hull once, I just dont own one.
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1983 22' Starcraft SC221 Bowrider 470 Mercury
1974 16' Starcraft American Bowrider 85 HP Johnson
Once you eliminate the impossible, What ever is left,
No matter how unlikely, Must be the problem.
Ayuh,...Besides Ugly,... Is the paint Sound,..??
If so,... Sand,+ Prime, then paint it...
It saves Alotta time, money,+ chemicals.....
Stripping aluminum Bare should only be done for necessarities...
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I was given a quote of 30 to 50 bucks a foot (per side) to have my 24 foot Lone Star soda blasted down here in Oklahoma. So I am gonna do a stripper and sand method. I have a thick layer of coal tar epoxy to remove, plus about 3 layers of of paint as well.
Ayuh,...Besides Ugly,... Is the paint Sound,..??
If so,... Sand,+ Prime, then paint it...
It saves Alotta time, money,+ chemicals.....
Stripping aluminum Bare should only be done for necessarities...
One of the posts suggest auto paint so talked to an auto body man in the neighborhood. He suggests the rubbery paint is house paint and should be removed with a stripper. I have used a stripper on a little of the side and and strips down to a white cover on the hull, it does not go down to bare aluminum.
He suggests a light useage of the stripper to get off the house paint but not the original blue factory paint.
Ayuh,... If you're able to take only the offending Crap off,..
Leaving the original base coating,..?? Go for It..... Absolutely...
You'll still want a rattlecan of a zinc primer to cover any spots that are exposed Bare during the stripping or sanding process...
I'd never had a problem if primed as it's turned Bare, skippin' the chemical wash...
(as in maybe hours old, rather than Days bare)
There's going to be some sand thru's as you cloud the original paint for repainting,...
Just cover 'em with the zinc at the end of each work session....
__________________ Any Grease is Better,..... Than No Grease at All.......
NO PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems. That is what these forums are for.
They will be Deleted
I stripped my boat using Aircraft Paint Stripper. I got that at a paint/autobody store for 45 bucks. The reason I stripped it was because there was graffiti on there and I wanted to get all that removed. I didn't strip to the bare aluminum. I just stripped to the Zinc coating. Zinc coating is really hard to take off. Now I'm just gonna lightly sand and touch up with more zinc coating.
I would recommend to strip as deep as you have to. Zinc coating is not cheap. In other words, don't over strip it or work overtime when not needed.
Aluminum Hull Stripping
So I am gonna do a stripper and sand method. I have a thick layer of coal tar epoxy to remove, plus about 3 layers of of paint as well.
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