1983 Johnson 70 Horsepower, model# J70ELCTE bogging/stalling issue?

Big Bubba

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 11, 2007
Messages
746
Hello everyone,
I have a question about my outboard which is a 1983, 70 horsepower, model# J70ELCTE Johnson outboard. This motor was on a 16 foot tri-hull speed boat that I bought and removed it from and then it was removed and put on a 1991 Lowes's Pontoon boat model 202, 20 footer. When I put this motor on my pontoon boat and went to crank her over it was idling about 2,500 rpm's and I made sure that the remote control and the motor was in neutral before I put the cables on. So I had my friend come over and he looked at it and adjusted the metal small rod that connects between the throttle roller cam that opens and closes the carb butterflies to the piece that moves the, I think, the timing lever that moves underneath the flywheel and makes contact with the full timing advance rubber stop. So I am thinking maybe that that is what is causing my bogging/stalling issues going from idle to forward throttle. I have had the carbs off three different times and soaked them and blew them out with 120 psi compressed air pressure and installed new carb kits and gaskets but still does this and I also adjusted the floats parallel to the carb body as looking at the carb upside down. Now when I take off first time of the day it will take off great with GREAT throttle pickup but if I pull a tuber or run the boat motor for a little while when it gets up to normal operating temperature then that is when I will have bogging/stalling issues. What is that metal rod on the side of the motor between the carb throttle cam roller pickup and the timing lever piece do. now the carb butterflies are closed at idle/neutral and there is a little space between the roller and the throttle cam pickup piece. Also when we adjusted that metal rod it idled at between 800/900 rpm's in a trash can full of water really nicely but in the water after warming up a bit a little different. Let me know becuase I am racking my brain out trying to figure this out. I did order a service manual specific to y outboard and haven't used it yet becuase I am curentl deployed right now and want be back until January 2010. Thanks again for your help, Bob;)
 

Big Bubba

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 11, 2007
Messages
746
Re: 1983 Johnson 70 Horsepower, model# J70ELCTE bogging/stalling issue?

One more thing if you go to BSKYE85 picture of his thread titled, 1985 Evinrude 70 hp V.R.O thread, he has a GREAT picture of the metal rod I am talking about on his GREAT big picture of his outbaord. If you look halfway down in the middle of that picture below the flywheel you see that metal rod I am talking about that I had to adjust to get the rpm's down to 800 rpms. That metal rod if you look at that picture connects to the throttle cam with the marks or scribe lines on it and then goes towards the back of the outbaord to another blue vertical piece that has the idle and max timing advance adjust screws on it. That is what I am talking about. Beisides that I never or my friend never touched the timing advance rubber piece underneath the flywheel just the long metal rod piece that connects the throttle cam from the carbs to the timing advance lever that is vertical positioned with the idle and max timing advance adjustment screws. Thanks for your help, Bob
 

Big Bubba

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 11, 2007
Messages
746
Re: 1983 Johnson 70 Horsepower, model# J70ELCTE bogging/stalling issue?

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=343784 Sorry here is the thread I was referencing with the identical setup my out board has with the metal rod. Please read my 2 other threads above. Thanks my fingers are hurting from typing soo much. Thanks again, Bob
 

kencat

Seaman
Joined
Sep 11, 2008
Messages
51
Re: 1983 Johnson 70 Horsepower, model# J70ELCTE bogging/stalling issue?

Did the motor work ok as it was on the original boat?

What adjustment was made to the cam plate? Was it holding the butterflies open before you adjusted it when in neurtral idle? Also, did you adjust the idle stop screw? because this may have been the culprit all along as it sounds like the previous owner may have screwed around to get the motor to idle.

I'm new to this myself and from what I've read about "link and sync" procedures, you have been adjusting a key part of that "system" and everything could be out of whack. My understanding is that at idle the butterflies should be closed completely. The idle speed is controlled by the timing of the engine. As the throttle is put in gear and pushed forward, the timing begins advancing and then the butterflys open (ideally all at the same time). This is all set up by the link and sync procedure.

Might want to verify a few of the basics ist though:

compression
good spark - jumps a 7/16" gap with a stong zap and at the right timing
What's left is fuel delivery and timing - link and sync key here I think.

Re compression - my 1988 60hp was starting to act up at idle wanting to stall out sometimes, finally crapped out real good and I found the top cylinder at 45 psi with ring fragments embedded in the head and piston:mad:.

If I have said anything in error here, anyone please correct it.
 
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