Popping in and out of forward gear - 1978 35hp Evinrude

Azonic · #1 September 26th, 2009, 09:38 PM

So we were at the lake last night..

Ran around for a long time, and then late in the evening just at dark,
the motor started acting like I was hitting a stump... over and over..

I figured it was popping in and out of gear...

Then when we got done night fishing and I fired her up, she did not want to go into gear... reverse was fine, but you can't load her in reverse...

It did pop into gear, I loaded her, and brought her home...

Suggestions? I am lost....

Thanks

jasper60103 · #2 September 26th, 2009, 10:00 PM

That popping out of gear is a symptom of a bad clutch dog in your gearcase. Before assuming the worst, check the shift lever and shift rod. Also if this is a remote setup, check your connection to the motor. It could need adjustment.

wilde1j · #3 September 26th, 2009, 11:22 PM

Most likely, you need a clutch dog and fwd gear. You can't tell for swure until you tear down the gearcase.

Azonic · #4 September 26th, 2009, 11:31 PM

The manual shift is working...

I took off the inspection port, and looked at the rod and connector while shifting...

It does move in both directions and does not slip from what I can see...

So new clutch and gear? or just the clutch?

SparkieBoat · #5 September 26th, 2009, 11:45 PM

post some pics of the gear and clutch dog ..the gear is pricey..my reverse was doing the same thing..I just replaced the clutch dog..will test tomorrow or monday..but it being the forward gear you may want to replace the gear and clutch dog. and make sure your shift cable is properly adjusted..also do not shift quickly from forward to reverse..always pause in between gears to allow prop to stop completely.

SparkieBoat · #6 September 26th, 2009, 11:50 PM

here are some pics of my gears

Azonic · #7 September 26th, 2009, 11:53 PM

I have not tore it down yet...

I thought the shifter was adjusted correctly, as it moves all the way forward to the catch on the motor...??

The clutch and gear would cost more than I paid for the whole boat, motor and trailer...

BTW... IBoats does not list this part!!

SparkieBoat · #8 September 27th, 2009, 12:04 AM

i just got a used gearcase for a friend for $150..but you never know what you are getting..you never mentioned the model of the motor..smaller HP motor can get by with a lot more than the bigger ones. Heres a pic of my clutch dog..its not a good one but you can see the extreme wear.

wilde1j · #9 September 27th, 2009, 11:16 AM

It's seldom just the clutch dog ... both are typically worn (usually caused by poor shifting habits ... i.e "gentle", slow shifting.)

Azonic · #10 September 27th, 2009, 02:08 PM

The motor is new to me, and I guess I get to inherit the results of bad shift techniques...

I think I will take it out and weld it in forward!!!

My little 3 hp is forward only.... no shifter no nothing, start it in gear!

Okay, so that is a bad idea...

I wonder if I can clean up the edges by machining them back square...

I figure the issues is they get worn at an angle, and that allows them to slip/pop on the edges they are to be caught/mated on....

Anyone ever try this approach?

jasper60103 · #11 September 27th, 2009, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azonic

The manual shift is working...

I took off the inspection port, and looked at the rod and connector while shifting...

It does move in both directions and does not slip from what I can see...

So new clutch and gear? or just the clutch?

If the clutch dog and forward gear is bad, it won't slip unless it's under load.

Is this a remote setup,
I would take on a test drive using the manual shift lever. Of course you'll need a buddy to steer.

It could be the remote is not fully engaging it
in forward gear.

edit: I'm a little hesitant about cracking the gearcase right away because I did it once and didn't find any problems.

mikesea · #12 September 27th, 2009, 03:26 PM

i have successfully cleaned up the gears,many people with some skill and no money did it,i used an air grinder,but i bet a dremel with some of the grinds they have these days weill work,make it nice and square just like the backsides,.most importantly,make sure your cables are adjusted so you get into gear without that grindind,and NO powershifts,that all works if YOU the mechanic use the boat,make sure anyone you lend or let drive listen to your instructions,definatly give it a shot,all you have is time and a bit of labor,

Azonic · #13 September 27th, 2009, 10:28 PM

I took the lower unit off about 3 weeks ago to check the water pump...

I had to undo the linkage of course...

I am not certian it was seated and tight, and may not be engaging all the way...

I got in, got it all tight, and will try again...
I hung my little 3 hp Johnson on the back as a kick....
It is direct drive, and pull start.... Time to be very usefull!!!

If I continue to have problems, I will check the gears....

SparkieBoat · #14 September 27th, 2009, 11:14 PM

welding it up to the forward gear should work..but be careful to just spot weld it, and try to do it evenly, so it is not too out of balance. I would probably try that if the gears/clutch dog were already bad anyway. with a 35 I assume it is on a small boat, so reverse is not really needed.

Azonic · #15 September 28th, 2009, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SparkieBoat

welding it up to the forward gear should work..but be careful to just spot weld it, and try to do it evenly, so it is not too out of balance. I would probably try that if the gears/clutch dog were already bad anyway. with a 35 I assume it is on a small boat, so reverse is not really needed.

So I was just venting... But one never knows!

As stated above, if it is not fixed with the linkage, then I will machine them ...

Thanks

SparkieBoat · #16 September 28th, 2009, 10:33 PM

if you machine the gears let me know, I am keeping some old ones and may try it myself.

WIMUSKY · #17 September 28th, 2009, 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azonic

The manual shift is working...

I took off the inspection port, and looked at the rod and connector while shifting...

It does move in both directions and does not slip from what I can see...

So new clutch and gear? or just the clutch?

If it's like my old 18hp there should be 2 bolts on the connector. Get a socket in there and verify they're tight. I had the same problem. Ended up just tightening the bolts down good. I even put loctite on them. Mine was a '72 so I'm just taking a shot at this...

Azonic · #18 September 29th, 2009, 11:40 AM

I think it was slippage at the link...

Hope to verify tonight or Friday.

I tightened it originally after pulling the lower unit and water pump, however, I tried not to over tighten it...

I have to remind myself all the time... It it aluminum... or copper, or brass..

Not the steel I am used to working with on cars...

strip to much stuff out if I do not remind myself...
So I think I under tightened the linkage...

mikesea · #19 September 29th, 2009, 02:36 PM

its not about being tight,its more about the slot in the shafts aligning with the screw,the screw does clamp it to a small extent ,but the design is so the shaft cant pull thru the connector if the screw does the job,its a very common mistake people make,not realizing the shaft isnt aligned ,often the screw while turned strips because it is running on side of shaft,then it strips the brass connector

Azonic · #20 September 29th, 2009, 04:58 PM

yeah it was a bear getting the brass connector to loosen enough to let the rod slip out so I could drop the lower unit...

I think this is worth a double check...

Thanks for the heads up!

mikesea · #21 September 29th, 2009, 05:26 PM

in the case when you cant get the connector loose enough,the trickis,loosen both screws,then with a screwdirver or needle nosed pliers rotate the connector so you see the slot,then pry it just enough to to allow shaft to slip out,another tip,back when we would strip the screw or the connector,we would simply use a bolt and locknut,turning the connector 90 degrees so we could hold and tighten,i was young and no money