Re: 79 chrysler 140 won't start
Unless the cable is so worn that it doesn't function, is kinked, or is too short so it is binding, you don't need a new one. It is best to have a loop of cable in the spashwell to prevent binding.
You connect the throttle cable. With the control in neutral, adjust the throttle cam (using the two black plastic ball end fittings) so the line is centered on the carb roller.
Remove the fitting at the tower to adjust; if you remove the one on the cam, you run the risk of bending the cam. But adjust both fittings equally. Do not tighten the jam nuts excessively; this may crack the black plastic fittings.
If there are two lines on the cam, close together, center the roller between them. The roller is mounted on an eccentric screw. Loosen the nut and turn the screw until the roller JUST touches the cam. The bottom carb is now fully closed. THIS IS ONLY THE STARTING POINT AND WILL CHANGE. Loosen the carb link and let the top carb snap shut, then tighten the screw again. Now, both carbs will open approximately the same amount for a given throttle setting. Note that there is some play and you can tighten the bar a bit upward so the top carb opens at the same time as the bottom one. Otherwise, it will open slightly less than the bottom.
Then you adjust the two black plastic ball end link so the carbs open fully at wide open throttle. With the (black plastic stop) hard against the block, the butterflies should be level or close to it--a slight difference from horizontal is not significant. Don't go crazy trying to get them exact.
Next, you return the throttle handle to neutral and with the warm engine running in the water in forward gear, adjust the idle stop screw on the bottom of the tower for proper idle speed. Note that the line on the cam will usually be slightly below the carb roller, giving a very slight carb opening.
Note that each time you remove the carbs, the gaskets will compress differently and the carbs will set on the studs differently, SO The procedure MUST be done anytime the carbs are removed and replaced.
NOW: The throttle cable quick connect fitting should be the large one with the spring loaded center. The center should protrude, about 1/4 inch more than when fully retracted, in neutral. This gives the necessary shift travel BEFORE the throttles begin to open. If it is not protruding, screw it further on the cable until it does.
If you have a distributor, check the belt tension. Too tight and you will have trouble shifting OR the distributor will not return to proper timing when the throttle is returned to neutral. This will give advanced timing which will give a very high idle speed. Too loose and timing will wander a bit.
The distributor belt should deflect using a steel .010 feeler gauge pointed into the center like a finger. The belt should deflect 1/8 to 3/16 inch before the feeler gauge bends.
EDIT: BTW: Check the plastic bushing the cam is mounted on. It should be snug, not sloppy with the nut just touching it, and the hole should not be excessively worn.