[nevadany]

Hi,

not too long ago my friend and i were fixing up my 1976, 25hp Evinrude. In the process of checking things, we tried taking off the water by-pass plate. Well, one of the screw heads snapped off but i was able to get the other screw out trouble free.

I am going to try and get the remaining part of the broken screw out tonight. However, i wanted to pick up new screws before i head home but i forgot the good screw to get the thread pattern off off.

I am hoping that someone here might be able to give me the thread dimensions so i can pick up some screws to use in the mean time. The part number from the BRP site is: 0302509 (by-pass plate screw)

I'm sure this screw is very common, spanning years of E&J outboards.

Anyway, whatever help i can get in the few hours before i head home would be greatly appreciated!

DW

p.s. out of curiosity, would running the motor on open water without the water by-pass plate cause any over heating problems? Or is it just to keep things from getting sucked in? In a bucket the motor works flawlessly.

[nevadany]

nevermind about the thread pattern...i was unsuccessfull in getting the broken screw out, so it got drilled out and rethreaded.

DW

[F_R]

Originally Posted by nevadany

Hi,

not too long ago my friend and i were fixing up my 1976, 25hp Evinrude. In the process of checking things, we tried taking off the water by-pass plate. Well, one of the screw heads snapped off but i was able to get the other screw out trouble free.

I am going to try and get the remaining part of the broken screw out tonight. However, i wanted to pick up new screws before i head home but i forgot the good screw to get the thread pattern off off.

I am hoping that someone here might be able to give me the thread dimensions so i can pick up some screws to use in the mean time. The part number from the BRP site is: 0302509 (by-pass plate screw)

I'm sure this screw is very common, spanning years of E&J outboards.

Anyway, whatever help i can get in the few hours before i head home would be greatly appreciated!

DW

p.s. out of curiosity, would running the motor on open water without the water by-pass plate cause any over heating problems? Or is it just to keep things from getting sucked in? In a bucket the motor works flawlessly.

Just for future info, yes it is absolutely necessary to have that plate in place for normal operation at any significant speed at all. The pump will starve for water without it.

[BRE99]

This thread is a perfect example of why I quit lurking and finally registered to this site. It seems like everytime I run into a problem with my motor I can come here and find someone dealing with the same issue. Yesterday, I too snapped off one of the screws for my water by-pass plate. I am curious to know what techniques you used to extract the broken piece. If anyone else has any "secret" methods to extract a broken screw I would love to hear them. I have not yet attempted to remove it but I will need to in the next couple of days. By the way, I have a 1987 28 hp Johnson.

[Daviet]

Drill it and use an easy out, if you screw it up, use a heli-coil. Some times if you heat it up before you use the easy out, it might come out easier.

[nevadany]

Maybe i'll try using a heli-coil. in the mean time i D&D'ed for a smaller thread size (8-32), where-as the original thread was 10-24. Or i might eventually just drill it out and tap a 10-24 hole and replace with an original screw.

Anyway, I mounted the plate and we took the boat out this past sunday afternoon. worked perfectly. Did a 4 mile cruise from the dock to a friends camp, then the whole way back was full out...didn't miss a beat.

I wasn't 100% sure about what that plate did, but i figured it had something to do with water getting to the pump. Like i said before, in a bucket the motor ran fine without the plate. i am glad i didn't chance it...would have taken the fun out of a prefectly good shake down cruise.

DW

[mikesea]

the best way to get the bolt out is using a reverse counter rotating drillbit,and,any bits should be cobalt.you need to drill starting smaller in size and be sure to centerpunch a starting hole,the stainless steel bolts can be tough,thus the rason for cobalt in varying sizes,the reverse rotation bit,often cuts the bolt out leaving the original threads,.unfortinatly its not easy to find these bits unless you have access to a snap-on ,mac tool truck ,OR a FRIEND.Be certain to hold drill steady,dont force anything,let the bit do the work.As for easyouts.Some may disagree,but I have found they are more trouble than their worth.More often than not,the hardened easyout breaks off in the bolt and then you in for a BIG job.Heat is your friend anytime removing a stuck bolt.Akllow heat to build up in the surrounding area where the bolt is,then using back and forth action,a little at a time proceed.Ddrill the broken bolt to the point hole is large enough to CHASE the threads with a TAP.A bit at a time,.use oil for lube

[nevadany]

Yes, the easy out didn't do much. i'm not certain what the material is for the broken screw, either aluminum or very soft steel because the easy out just ate through it likeit was butter...this was even at a very slow drill speed too.

I did center punch a starting hole, and slowly drilled it out and tried the easy out. i used a heat gun, penetrating oil and a punch to try and get the original threads to break loose, nothing worked.

DW

[mikesea]

most screws/bolts are stainless on outboards,at this point,you will need to drill it to the point the only material left is in the threads,at that point a tap will help to chase out the threads,as i mentioned earlier,if your last drill size is a reverse bit,often the bit will break the old screw threads away from the receiving female thread,i often heat up the surrounding area too,i think it helps.if you happen to over drill the hole,you can either tap to next larger size,sometimes its not possable ,so you can also install a helicoil