'92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

What should be on this thing 1 battery or 2? The previous owner added a second battery because (I think) the starter was begining to go. I'm going to rebuild the starter because a new one is $275. Shouldn't a single battery be enough to crank the engine over? Engine runs like a dream when I can get it running. Right now it is VERY slow cranking. I've checked everything in all 3 manuals so the starter must be the problem. Never done any outboard repair but worked on cars forever.

Also any ideas where I can find the 5 bolts for the trim cylinder? The local marine dealer says parts are N.L.A. 3 of them broke and the ram is coming out at an angle. Can I rebuild this or is the piston/ram damaged? What about the cylinder cap? Is it bent/warped/twisted with the bolts broken and at that wierd angle? Should I just buy a good used unit and rebuild/replace the o-rings?

Iv'e got the Clymer, a SELOC, and the factory manual so the technical end is covered I just need to know what I'd be better off doing.

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

You only need one battery to start your motor. The previous owner probably added the second battery for safe measure and to run other equipment on the boat. Two battery's are not a dad idea. They might have a switch between them somewhere.
As far as your tilt/trim sound to me like you might be looking to find a used one some where. We have a member here RRitt who is very good with tilt trim questions he will probable chime in to help out.

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

Thanks for that info its what I figured.

I found a used trim cylinder for $100. Is it worth it or can I rebuild the one the bolts broke on? I was told the bolts are not available anymore. Can I drill out the holes and go with different bolts?

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

Dual batteries with a battery selector switch is what I have set up on my boat. One battery is enough most of the time. Second battery is an insurance policy. I go out on some large fresh water lakes and rivers. Sometimes 50 to 60 miles. Very difficult to get a jump start if my primary battery goes dead. No one around.

All of the parts for the trim cylinder are available. Maybe not necessarily form the the Marine repair shops, but they can be purchased elsewhere If you know exactly what to ask for. Strange, the documentation on line doesn't show the breakdown of the trim cylinder for 1992 150HP motor. I found the breakdown for a 1988 125 HP motor that shows the internal breakdown. Not sure if it's the same but it should be, but don't hold me to that one.

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury_parts/1258/190.cfm

Regardless, you can get the "O" rings from several sources. For mine, I took the old rings to a shop that repaired hydraulic cylinders and pumps. They matched my "O" rings without any problem. Has been working fine for the past 3 years.

As for the trim cylinder bolts.......The bolts for the trim cylinder are standard SAE bolts. Don't remember the exact diameter and thread pitch or length, but you can get them at most hardware stores. I had the same issue. I went down to Home Depot and purchased some stainless steel allen head bolts.

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

Thanks for the replies guys! Ya the link shows my setup. I will, based on your input, pull the cylinder today and see what I can find for bolts and o-rings. I will probably re-ring the tilt cylinder also while I have the whole thing apart.

I have a guy that will also rebuild the starter.

Thanks again for the help! AWESOME SITE!

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

TRIM BOLTS:
you can use 1/4-20 x 1.75" socket head cap bolts. It's an odd length of a standard bolt so many but not all hardware stores will have it.

use 1/8" cobalt to drill a centering hole in broken bolts. try torch and screw extractor. If won't come free then go ahead and drill out and use 3/4" helicoil insert. DO NOT drift off center or the top cover will never seat right.

if cylinder sleeve is fused into housing then $100 for used one is a better deal than fixing. You'll be out 4-6 hours time and $60+ materials by the time you get it machined out, bolts fixed, and new cylinder from dealer. All of which is not needed to rebuild a good freshwater unit. A good freshwater needs five new bolts, $5 in o-rings, and 30 minutes of time to be finished.

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

OK I think its toast. I got the upper pin out but the sleeve and bushing for the shock absorber are cooked. Now I need a new shock. The upper pin was real corroded and I think I bent the end and now the threads are screwed. I'm going to see if some guys in our shop can fix it. Also the sleeve from the shock is stuck on the pin but I think it will come off easy enough. If nothing else I can probably have them make a new pin.

The lower pin however won't budge. What else do I risk destroying if I simply beat the snot out of it to get it out? I was told not to use heat but use penetrating oil instead. OK, so its soaking now and I won't do anything with it untill tomorrow afternoon.

Oh yea I need a small 12 point socket to get the 2 good bolts out. I thought I was done buying tools since I was a mechanic for 12 years, guess not.

RRitt, thanks for the info on the bolts. There is maybe 1/2 inch of the broken bolt sticking out of the base so they should come out fairly easy. BUT if I destroy the trim housing beating the lower pin out I guess it wont matter.

You guys are great! I really appreciate all the info. I didn't really want to work on this but all the help has inspired me!

Almost forgot, didn't tackle the starter yet...maybe tomorrow.

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

if the end of shaft mushrooms then it won't pass through housing. Save yourself headache and use reciprocating saw between housing and transom bracket. You can shave thin layer of metal from trim housing without affecting anything. Be careful not to cat any metal from transom clamps.

Grind down any mushrooming and use SS cotter pins to hold mounting shafts in place. Wait to find out if cylinder fused into trim housing before buying any parts. It sounds like your system is one of the 24 manhour jobs (32 including removal and corrosion repair). Depending upon how much you value your time then it may be cheaper to replace than repair.

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

I'm going to hold off on cutting the lower shaft out. I know its just going to open a bigger can of worms. I'll use it as a last resort though. If I do cut it out then I risk having to replace the tilt and shock too.

If I can:
1. remove the busted bolts from the trim cylinder housing
2. replace the o-rings in the trim cylinder
3. repair the upper shaft by removing the corrosion and getting the shock sleeve off it (or make a new shaft)
4. replace the shock sleeve and bushing
5. and do all of it while its still on the boat
then I think I'll leave it at that. Just taking out the upper shaft has created more repair work than I wanted.

I can't tell but it looks like the lower shaft goes thru the tilt cyl. and shock correct? I'm sure thats all corroded and locked solid too.

Are the shafts stainless steel? Looks like the nuts are bronze/brass and have lock-tite on 'em.

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

sounds like saltwater boat to me. if not saltwater then maybe stored under pine tree. if not pine tree then maybe had electrical problem with slow battery bleed. Galvanic corrosion can be caused by salty, acidic, or polluted water. It can also be caused by stray electrical currents and theoretically strong eltro-magnetic fields. I am guessing that you can see white deposits that look almost like limestone. Tip of the iceberg. By the time you can see it with your eye there is 10x more damage that you can't see.

Chances are that the problem(s) will keep growing worse the more you try to find shortcuts.

Re: '92 150hp single or dual batteries and a trim question.

I whacked the s$%t out of my lower pin after a good soaking with blaster. I was on the verge of the sawsall when the pin gave. Use at least a three# hammer and a Brass drive pin. I went thru two drivers made of plumbing fittings I had laying around. A tee with a 6" nipple for a handle and a close nipple with a coupling and a plug for the contact end. Mushroomed the brass, saved the shaft and sent everything to Rritt. All fixed and happy camping. Good luck.