I have an 89 evinrude 150xp. Someone has put an electric fuel pump on it. The hot wire from the pump is run to the purple wire from the rectifier on the terminal block. Boat ran great until i changed the rectifier (old one bad, 35 amp). Now engine boggs trying to come up on plane. Once on plane it runs great. Could the increase of volts to the pump be causing this problem. It is also much harder to start now. Carbs are clean been though twice. Any ideas would be appreciated cause im out of them.
Spark gap test it at 7/16th inch gap to see if theres a weak ignition on a cyl or two. Let it come up to temp in case of a coil going south at operating temps. Then do the gap test.
If spark is good, blue and strong, then go back to fuel delivery.
I sure hope the engine never dies due to a mechanical failure and you forget to turn the key off. A failure such as a stuck float or needle and seat in a carb can fill the engine with fuel. You now hit the starter and -- well -- does the word "kaboom" have any significance for you. Very dangerous practice.
Yes -- modern EFI/DFI engines have electric fuel pumps but they also have the electronics to know when the engine is running and will kill the pump if the engine dies.
I have tried a spark gap test and it made the 7/16th jump. Also i have replaced powerpak, coil, plugs, and fuel filter. None of those helped mechanic now says its fuel after i replaced all of those electronics and try replacing all the fuel lines. I'm doing that today and since I'm out of ideas I'm going to put the old rectifier back on since the problem started immediately after i changed rectifiers. I appreciate any help i can get.
That fuel pump is not supposed to be on there.
If you have good compression and spark on each cylinder, then all that is left is the fuel delivery.
There are proper premix (non-VRO) pumps made for the motor. The "someone" that put the electric pump on was being lazy.
I agree pump was on bass boat when i bought it. This is my first boat and if I knew more about boats when i got it I might not have purchased it. But it has run great, I've even pulled tubes.
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The jets in the carbs are fixed can not be removed and there is no adjustments on the carbs either. I thought about ethanol but that is the only gas i can get around here. After having the boat for a while I have discovered that the rectifier was for a 10 amp motor mine is a 35 amp and someone has put an electric fuel pump on in instead of a VRO so it is very possible that the carbs weren't made for it either.
the most certainly can be remove, i have done it many times. they are called fixed because they are not adjustable, not that they can not be removed and cleaned and the ports cleaned. read carb cleaning here. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=299680
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Yest. took new 35amp working rectifier off motor and put old 10 amp non working rectifier (one that came on motor when bought) back on. Just returned from lake and with the boat sitting for a month and a half I hit the key one time and it fired up and ran great no problems getting on plane and run strong all the way to top end. Only hiccup was when I tried to power boat back on trailer and it acted like it was flooding out and i could smell fuel real strong but just by changing the rectifier i fixed a planing problem i have been fighting since march. Now what sense does that make I thought rectifiers didn't affect how an engine runs. New rectifier runs at 15-15.2 volts at WOT old one 12.8 could that difference of volts going to the electrical fuel pump be causing the whole problem?
evinrude electric fuel pump
Linear Mode
