This is a long one but figure it will help answer future questions. Here goes.
I have a 1995 225 HP Evinrude. It has ran ok last fall when I bought the boat and ok this summer, except for some minor idling problems at times, but would be ok after revving it up a few times in neutral.
Yesterday I ran the boat somewhat hard through some rough water for over a half an hour in Barnegat Bay, NJ than pulled in to the Forked River and had no problems with idling or stalling. After over an hour break for lunch we left and boat ran fine, no idling problems or stalling on the slow ride back to the bay.
Again we had a hard rough ride back but boat and motor ran great for about 30 minutes. Then all of a sudden it bogged down like you were running out of gas.
Every time I would start the motor it would be ok for 5 seconds then idle down to 400 rpms and stall out. I could get it to rev up in Neutral but wasn't revving up smooth or very high and then as soon as you went back to idle it would stall. It did this for about 10 - 15 minutes, then all of a sudden it seemed to run ok and I headed back to the house 10 minutes away and it didn't stall.
This morning I replaced the primer bulb from the tank and the fuel filter at the motor. The fuel separator filter was replaced recently. Took the boat out
and it idled fine on the slow wake 10 minute ride out to the bay and then ran it hard for about 20 -30 minutes and it ran great,seemed like all was fixed and was running better than ever. Then the same problem happened, it bogged down and then stalled out. Kept stalling out this time for almost 30 minutes, pulled motor cover off,pulled air cleaner off all looked well. Then again it seemed ok but I took it slow for about 20 minutes back to the house,
Checked all hose coonections, replaced spark plugs just for GP and to go back to Champions. Took boat back out just before sunset and the same problem, ran it hard for 20 -30 minutes and it seemed good except I thought my RPMs were a little lower at WOT than normal but was still hitting my normal top end speeds, but then it stalled again and kept stalling in idle and idled rough trying to revv it up. About 15 minutes later it ran fine and I rode back slow to the house with no stalling and it seemed fine at house.
Seems like every time now after about 20 - 30 minutes it has this problem.
Like something is getting overheated. Check vent hose and it was clear and seems like fuel up to the VRO is good. Can't tell if this is ignition or fuel related but when it happens it feels like I ran out of gas, like if I was in a car.
This is going to be hard to diagnose if I take it to the shop since it has only been doing it after a hard 20 minute ride.
Well no one had any ideas or didn't want to read this long story but I'll update what has happened since. I've replaced filters, some hoses and clamps and pickup tube. Here is what happened today. To get to the point just go to the bottom and read about what temproraily clears the problem. I will also put this in a new post since this seems odd.
Thought I found problem when I pulled the fuel pickup at the tank, it has an internal screen that is tubular and 2 inches long amd was clogged with what looked like insect parts. I cleaned it but decided on replacing it with one that doesn't have a screen. The water separator filter should catch anything and there is also a small plastic filter right before the VRO pump.
Took it out today for another run up the bay and it was fine, pulled in to the Forked River and topped off the tank with Valvtec Marine Gas.
Headed back out to the bay and as soon as I started to get on it the problem came back.
When it happens the motor starts almost every time put then drops RPMs and stalls. I can keep it running if I increase the throttle but it doesn't rev up like it should and dies if I go back to idle.
Made it slowly back to the river and tried pumping the tank primer bulb and it was still stalling. Pulled the motor cover off and it cleared up. Checked vent hose to make sure it was clear and filter at motor to make sure there was gas getting to it.
Headed back out to the bay again and drove about 10 minutes in rough water and it stalled again, This time i had the problem for almost an hour as I tried slowly to chug along and get closer to shore to get out of the waves so I could pull the cover. As soon as I did the problem went away.
Drove back for about a 20 minute drive and everything seemed good again, then it stalled again.
I was getting ready to remove the cover and was putting my hand by the 2 exhaust holes to make sure I was feeling pressure and it immediately cleared. Took another 10 minute run and it stalled again. I banged on the motor cover and opened and closed the hold down levers a few times to make sure it wasn't causing some sort of problem. still bad, I then tried covering the exhaust holes which forced the exhaust to come mainly out of the lower unit. I did this while I had the idle revved up enough to prevent it from stalling and this cleared the problem again and the RPMs came right up. I think I did this one more time and it cleared it again.
I guess my question is what is covering the exhaust really doing to the motor on a 2 stroke? Is it forcing the motor to have more presuure, which I believe is how the VRO pump works? I went back to the dock and did notice there was agood amount of 2 stroke oil on the outside of the VRO (fuel/oil pump).
Sorry this is so long, but this is a weird problem and figure the more info I give the better.
I will be able to do better trouble shooting when I get back home from what was supposed to be a vacation and in calmer waters and more tools, timing light, volt meter etc.
Try running it without the cover on. If that clears the problem, then you have an exhaust leak. You probably won't notice it unless it's on the water, since there is no back pressure.
The other day when I had the problem I had the cover off for almost 30 minutes and it was stil doing it. I am seeing 2 stroke oil on the outside of the VRO, which I would think means a leak, but I'm not sure of the mechanics of a VRO, if it leaks oil, would that mean it is sucking air.
I know I need to pull and check the Pulse Limiter and compression when I get home from this vacation of woking on and testing my boat. At least I've been using it, even if for only 30 minutes at a time.
I don't see you did anything to diagnose whether its an ignition or fuel problem. You're assuming its something on the fuel side, which it may be, but these problems mimic each other and its usually a lot easier to test the ignition to eliminate it.
It could be dropping spark at certain temps, could be a heat related problem with the power pack.
A timing light would help to see if its dropping spark, especially when it won't rev up .
Thanks for the replies. I'm pulling the boat today and will have it home Friday to start better diagnosing. I have the Evinrude shop manual and start checking the ignition system, compression etc. I did try disconnecting the shift interrupt, but that didn't clear the problem.
Still don't understand why covering the exhaust holes seems to clear the problem temporarily.
I found the Fuel Vacuum Switch was leaking gas at the back of the unit. The part is on order. I did a cold compression check and all were at 105 except one was 95 - 100, which is the same as when I bought the boar a year ago. I will do a warm compression check when I get the vacuum switch. I'm also replacing the VRO since I did find it does have a slight oil leak. I figure better safe than sorry and a new pump is cheaper than a blown motor.
I still need to do a spark test and go from there.
Hopefully the vacuum switch and VRO is the problem and I'll have it out for a test ride this weekend back on the Delaware River where it will be easier to troubleshoot if it's still happening.
Well I think Jones Q called this one. Didn't realize you are from Canton, my uncle use to live there, my family is from Weymouth.
I'm losing spark on 1,3 and 5.I bypassed the shift interrupt switch and also the tan lead for the the S.L.O.W. system and it was still bad. I tried checking connections at the power pack for testing while the boat was in the water but that power pac is a mess when you unbolt it. What a bad design, those wires should be in a secure place with enough slack to pull it up and be able to check things. I decided I would rather do further testing at home. It seems the problem is happening more often and sooner now and I spoke to Evinrude support and they felt from the testing I've done so far it may be the power pack. The last couple of times when it did it today I tapped the top of the power pack with the handle of a screwdriver and it cleared the problem. I will inspect further and make sure there are no loose wire or grounds but it's leaning towards the pack.
It states that if I need to replace the power pack I then need to have the Max Spark Advance checked. Has anyone replaced these before? Did you have the Max Spark Advance checked at a shop or were you able to check that under way?
Replaced Power Pack and checked Max Timing at Ramp with boat on trailer. It was OK. That was an experience, 5000 RPMs in gear on a trailer. Ran boat in the roughest water I have seen in the river ever, for over an hour. Never got to open it up but it was under heavy load most of the way and it never stalled out.
I also replaced the VRO and Vacuum Switch because both were leaking although that wasn't the problem but I know this will be a better, safer motor from doing so.
Hopefully the Power Pack was it. I should have bought a timing light while I was on vacation instead of all those fuel related parts. Next time I won't leave home with out it.
Thanks for everyone's comments and advice and reading my ridiculously long stories.
you can check your max spark advance by removing all spark plugs. hold your spark advance all the way open where it would be at WOT( you can wire it there if needed)....or you can disconnect wire harness going to remote control and jump the starter solenoid with the throttle lever at WOT... hook up a spark tester to your #1 plug wire and connect your timing light..turn engine over and set to -4 degrees of what it should be..for example if it should be 20 degrees BTC then it should be set at 14. I think Tashasdaddy posted this trick...send him cookie or something for this valuable tip.
225 HP Evinrude stalls after 20 mins.
Linear Mode
